3.6 rebuild
10-06-2011, 11:42 AM
#46
Three Wheelin'
Just curious bypro.
Are you going for 0 degrees cam timing or are you advancing it at all?
Also are you using a degree wheel and split overlap or are you just trusting the TDC notch & boss/lockpin along with the notches in the cam using the timing tool?
Are you going for 0 degrees cam timing or are you advancing it at all?
Also are you using a degree wheel and split overlap or are you just trusting the TDC notch & boss/lockpin along with the notches in the cam using the timing tool?
10-07-2011, 03:55 AM
#47
Pro
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Finland
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Allso has some one measured the original timing of the cams?
Duration, overlap and timing?
10-07-2011, 02:35 PM
#48
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm installing the cams straight up using the factory method. This is 3.4 cams in 3.6L so I don't want to advance them. C.R. is 11.8 running CA 91 octane premium so I doubt I get full ignition advance during WOT anyway. In this configuration low rpm torque is great & redline comes on amazingly quick & if you want to shift powerband higher just install headers.
I have seen basic cam specs somewhere in the service manuals.
I have seen basic cam specs somewhere in the service manuals.
10-08-2011, 05:42 PM
#49
Three Wheelin'
Neato, found this for 3.6 & vcam plus:
And this for 3.4L
1mm valve travel
outlet opens 15 deg after TDC 141 deg
247 center
outlet closes 59 deg after BDC 353 deg
inlet opens 39 deg before BDC 375 deg
487 center
inlet closes 7 deg before TDC 599 deg
And this for 3.4L
1mm valve travel
outlet opens 15 deg after TDC 141 deg
247 center
outlet closes 59 deg after BDC 353 deg
inlet opens 39 deg before BDC 375 deg
487 center
inlet closes 7 deg before TDC 599 deg
10-20-2011, 04:19 PM
#51
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Byprodriver;8927994]I'm installing the cams straight up using the factory method. This is 3.4 cams in 3.6L so I don't want to advance them. C.R. is 11.8 running CA 91 octane premium so I doubt I get full ignition advance during WOT anyway. In this configuration low rpm torque is great & redline comes on amazingly quick & if you want to shift powerband higher just install headers.
Cam Timing notches:
Cam Timing notches:
10-20-2011, 07:18 PM
#52
Drifting
Not sure I understand what you are doing. Did you take a 3.4 VarioCam engine and increase the displacement to 3.6 (Nikkies?) or was this a 3.6 VarioCamPlus engine and you are using 3.4 cams. That does not make sense to me as the intake cams on a 3.6 are quite different/two stage lobs.
10-21-2011, 02:11 PM
#53
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
This is a 2001 engine with stock cams, displacement increased to 3.6L with LN 99mm sleeves & JE pistons.
10-24-2011, 02:49 PM
#55
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Oil sump baffle with lowered & enlarged oil drainback windows. Also shown magnetic drain plug & air seperators (swirl pots)
10-25-2011, 04:54 PM
#57
Three Wheelin'
Hey Bypro, what are the torque specs you are using on your ARP hardware for main and rod bolts. I've read in several places about revised specs but can't seem to find the info.
Also, who did your crankshaft balance, was it Flat 6 Innovations?
Also, who did your crankshaft balance, was it Flat 6 Innovations?
10-25-2011, 09:14 PM
#58
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I use a local guy for my engine balancing, I have used him since I worked @ Shelby & he did all the stroker engines. I haven't used the ARP main bolts but the rod bolt instructions call for 45 ft./lbs.
10-26-2011, 02:25 PM
#60
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter