The whole point of this post is that a reputable source is questioning the assumption that 'most synthetics out there... would protect the flat 6 just fine." Another reputable source, good old Jake Raby, has now concurred with the idea that most synthetics in fact do not protect the M96 sufficiently, primarily due to the high heat levels that the engine routinely produces.

The first step in the problem-solving process is to define the problem. For the time being I am staying out of which 'boutique' oil is better (or if we should use diesel oil... or humpback whale oil).

The question now: Is it sufficient to stick religiously to a very short oil change interval (3k or so) using a Porshce-approved oil or should owners switch to a 'boutique' oil?

 

Short intervals would be of benefit if you stick with a standard oil. I mandate that the oil be changed in my engines every 5K, even using our oil. The reason for this is primarily linked to both fuel and coolant intrusion that isn't beneficial to the engine and purging the oil is a very good thing.

The temperature that all oils are measured for viscosity at is much lower than the actual values that we see with the M96 engine. The oil may be a 40 weight at 212F and be rated as a 40 weight oil, but what is that oil at 230F? 250F? What about the track cars where we have datalogged a 265F oil temperature in the sump? The key was to develop an oil that would have extreme ability to retain its viscosity at excess temperatures, which increased hot operating oil pressures. This is why some people live by 50 weight oil in the M96, because by the time the oil reaches the 230+ temperature mark is no longer a 50wt and is now a "40 something" weight.

The general consensus with the M96 engine is they fail on the track due to G force starvation and people do all sorts of things to keep that from occurring. What we have learned is that none of those things are really necessary if you have an oil that can withstand the temperatures enough to maintain pressure well beyond the typical 212F point. The G Forces do aggravate the issue, but the underlying problem is that the oil is too hot, too liquid and does not maintain adequate pressure and film strength to protect the components.

Oils that are super hot and super thin also make their way past the IMS bearing seal much easier and begin to wash away the permanent lubrication from the bearing.

I will say that any "full race" oil has a life span of about 700 miles before its packages are depleted and it must be changed. The UOA is horrible when running a full race oil on the street for 3K miles, but most "race oil" companies won't tell you that. They wish to capitalize on their racing background to sell you an oil, just the same way Porsche uses the GT3 to sell you an M96 powered vehicle. They could not be further from the same.

 

this response is to Ralph above, not Jake /edit

really? that's not what I read...

meh

I've seen cars in Cuba that run with used vegetable oil. I watched the dude pour that **** in. Granted, he said he was constantly adding to it as his early 50's ford was burning it off pretty much continuously and it smells like a chip truck, but it ran. (poorly)

I do not believe running the factory recommended oil at the factory recommended intervals is going to cause premature failure of your M96. Period. There is no proof of the opposite. Is it the BEST oil to use? Is it the IDEAL intervals to change? I'm not debating those points, but your car is not going to die if you follow the factory recommendations.

 

Its all speculation.. Even when we gather data, there are too many variables.

I also do not believe that oil alone will kill an M96 engine early on the street, but do believe that it will on the track.

I have ran an aircooled engine on suntan oil at WOT for 5 solid minutes TRYING to blow it up and it ran out of gas before it popped.

 

hahaha, I wish there was video of that!!!

 

Astroglide 5W-45 works better than ban de soliel.

 

It's all very good getting boutique oils etc. however what about us located at the other end of the world?

I can't even get Mobil 1 0W-40 at the local car parts shop. I will be using 5W-50 Mobil 1 on the next oil change on June this year. The local OPC uses Castrol, 5W-40.

 

Hey 318touring, for those of us down under, I have had great customer service from these guys. I recently got some redline transaxle oil from them after being unable to find any shell transaxle on the shelves, and the dealer quoting me $63 a litre! Seem to have a decent range of other products too at competitive prices. Hope this helps mate.

http://www.performancelub.com/

 

Lubri-moly for the car and a vodka gimlet with absolute citron to lubricate the driver.

 

I bought engine build assembly additive from the Chevy dealer...perfect.