Variocam solenoid questions
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Chino hills, CA
Variocam solenoid questions
Question (1). Does anyone know the thread size and the length of the rod needed to tighten down the it is call the Porsche 9632 tool. It is used to release the tension on the cam shaft tensioner.
Question (2). I didn't use a PST2 prior to test of the variocam solenoid, is it possible just to hook up a 12v source and see of the solenoid works or not?
Thanks
Question (2). I didn't use a PST2 prior to test of the variocam solenoid, is it possible just to hook up a 12v source and see of the solenoid works or not?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 8
From: Chino hills, CA
Engine is out as you can see from the picture, it is one of the things that I forgot to do. I was thinking just to hook up a 12v source and listen for the clicking.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,528
Likes: 180
From: Glenview, IL
The thread is 5mm .8 pitch. On a 99 it should be right handed. Sometime in 2000 they changed the threads on the base of the advance mechanism to left handed. You can get a piece of brass rod at the hardware store and a die at NAPA and make the tool yourself. You also need a couple of nuts for it. If it turns out to be left-handed threads in the base let me know. The left handed die is very difficult to find but I have one and can make a rod (or 2) for you. Here are a few pictures for your reference.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Dharn,
I have to say thanks for the use of the forum to get your problems solved. I"m doing the same work on my 2000 C2 and encountering the same issues (alternator bolt, etc.)
I'm having a heck of a time finding a left handed die even at napa!
I have to say thanks for the use of the forum to get your problems solved. I"m doing the same work on my 2000 C2 and encountering the same issues (alternator bolt, etc.)
I'm having a heck of a time finding a left handed die even at napa!
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,528
Likes: 180
From: Glenview, IL
You won't find a left handed one at NAPA. It took me forever to find an affordable one when I needed it. But look what I just found on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/5mm-5-x-0-8-Metr...-/120746549593
Here is another source but more expensive and a min. $25 order.
http://www.victornet.com/tools/Left-...FUTBKgodCWNAxw
http://cgi.ebay.com/5mm-5-x-0-8-Metr...-/120746549593
Here is another source but more expensive and a min. $25 order.
http://www.victornet.com/tools/Left-...FUTBKgodCWNAxw
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 9
From: Nor Cal
I used zip ties (thanks Wayne @ Pelican!!!). Just thread them through the bottom below the chain guide and chain and then compressed by hand and then cinched up the tie wrap over the top of the chain.
You could also try threading a tie wrap through the holes that you use the threaded compression tool in.
Compress down in the center of the chain over the middle of the cam piston by hand (requires quite a bit of force), then cinch up the tie wrap so it relieves the tension.
I also ended up using a threaded rod, fortunately mine was older and standard threads - but actually I ended up bending the aluminum flange on the chain ramp.. which made me nervous, so resorted to just using the tie wraps instead. The key is to compress the piston first, then hold it in place with the screw or zip ties. I recommend a good high quality hard grade threaded rod, not the cheap hardware.
As for testing the solenoid, since you are in that far, just unscrew it from the actuator (two screws).
Then apply voltage to the two terminals on the cable via a 9v or 12 v battery. The piston should come out about 1/8" of an inch.
There is not a way I am aware of testing the actuator unless you have it installed in the car running, and use the PST2 variocam activation test at warm idle you should hear the engine compensate for the cam advance.
You could also try threading a tie wrap through the holes that you use the threaded compression tool in.
Compress down in the center of the chain over the middle of the cam piston by hand (requires quite a bit of force), then cinch up the tie wrap so it relieves the tension.
I also ended up using a threaded rod, fortunately mine was older and standard threads - but actually I ended up bending the aluminum flange on the chain ramp.. which made me nervous, so resorted to just using the tie wraps instead. The key is to compress the piston first, then hold it in place with the screw or zip ties. I recommend a good high quality hard grade threaded rod, not the cheap hardware.
As for testing the solenoid, since you are in that far, just unscrew it from the actuator (two screws).
Then apply voltage to the two terminals on the cable via a 9v or 12 v battery. The piston should come out about 1/8" of an inch.
There is not a way I am aware of testing the actuator unless you have it installed in the car running, and use the PST2 variocam activation test at warm idle you should hear the engine compensate for the cam advance.
Last edited by logray; Jul 16, 2011 at 10:11 PM.
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Instructor
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Western North Carolina
These are great folks with good service. They also cary a wide assortment of metric hoses, fasteners and clamps etc.
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From: Delaware
so after this thread lays dorment for 2.5 yrs this may be a work around but how do u properly remove it from the engine if u dont compress it. It cost less the $20 to do it right so y risk it?
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