Robin 993DX

Question (1). Does anyone know the thread size and the length of the rod needed to tighten down the it is call the Porsche 9632 tool. It is used to release the tension on the cam shaft tensioner.

Question (2). I didn't use a PST2 prior to test of the variocam solenoid, is it possible just to hook up a 12v source and see of the solenoid works or not?

Thanks

springgeyser

#2. Yes, if the engine 'was' still running in the car. With the car idling, you can hook up a bypass to the solenoid and power it remotely. or simply hook up a Durametric tool.

Robin 993DX

Engine is out as you can see from the picture, it is one of the things that I forgot to do. I was thinking just to hook up a 12v source and listen for the clicking.

Dharn55

The thread is 5mm .8 pitch. On a 99 it should be right handed. Sometime in 2000 they changed the threads on the base of the advance mechanism to left handed. You can get a piece of brass rod at the hardware store and a die at NAPA and make the tool yourself. You also need a couple of nuts for it. If it turns out to be left-handed threads in the base let me know. The left handed die is very difficult to find but I have one and can make a rod (or 2) for you. Here are a few pictures for your reference.

halcyon_m

Dharn,

I have to say thanks for the use of the forum to get your problems solved. I"m doing the same work on my 2000 C2 and encountering the same issues (alternator bolt, etc.)

I'm having a heck of a time finding a left handed die even at napa!

Dharn55

You won't find a left handed one at NAPA. It took me forever to find an affordable one when I needed it. But look what I just found on eBay

http://cgi.ebay.com/5mm-5-x-0-8-Metr...-/120746549593


Here is another source but more expensive and a min. $25 order.
http://www.victornet.com/tools/Left-...FUTBKgodCWNAxw

logray

I used zip ties (thanks Wayne @ Pelican!!!). Just thread them through the bottom below the chain guide and chain and then compressed by hand and then cinched up the tie wrap over the top of the chain.



You could also try threading a tie wrap through the holes that you use the threaded compression tool in.

Compress down in the center of the chain over the middle of the cam piston by hand (requires quite a bit of force), then cinch up the tie wrap so it relieves the tension.

I also ended up using a threaded rod, fortunately mine was older and standard threads - but actually I ended up bending the aluminum flange on the chain ramp.. which made me nervous, so resorted to just using the tie wraps instead. The key is to compress the piston first, then hold it in place with the screw or zip ties. I recommend a good high quality hard grade threaded rod, not the cheap hardware.

As for testing the solenoid, since you are in that far, just unscrew it from the actuator (two screws).

Then apply voltage to the two terminals on the cable via a 9v or 12 v battery. The piston should come out about 1/8" of an inch.

There is not a way I am aware of testing the actuator unless you have it installed in the car running, and use the PST2 variocam activation test at warm idle you should hear the engine compensate for the cam advance.

carlvs

You can get a M5x.80 LH threaded rod and nuts from Belmetric https://www.belmetric.com/left-hand-...cupekastsaki10
These are great folks with good service. They also cary a wide assortment of metric hoses, fasteners and clamps etc.

Tuned6

If you have the actuator on the bench, you can tap the reverse thread with a standard 5mx.7 tap and use 5mx.7 all thread with a nut on top for an easy way around!
Cheers,
Chris

De Jeeper

so after this thread lays dorment for 2.5 yrs this may be a work around but how do u properly remove it from the engine if u dont compress it. It cost less the $20 to do it right so y risk it?

Mike Murphy

This thread is 10 years old