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Convertible Top Window Repair DIY

 
Old 03-22-2011, 11:12 PM
  #16  
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I went with glue only and it is starting to lose its hold in a few spots. I can certainly re-glue but as you said in your original post this is a temp fix till it's time for a new top. I started with about three stitches and it was looking terrible so I stopped and stayed with glue only. I don't regret it if it means I have to re-glue as it still effectively puts off the new top indefinately.
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:06 AM
  #17  
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I'm about to undergo this DIY. My window is pretty much in the same exact shape as yours was fris. The bottom completely separated. Any last minute advice? Any thoughts on another glue that you might have used jn hindsight? Still psyched with the job?

Hoping that I can get it all done over the long weekend. I'll probably start the process by clearing the old glue this week, & re glueing the canvas flap thursday... and hopefully I'll be sewing by monday...
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:29 PM
  #18  
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My previous post (#15) still applies. I used a combination of gorilla glue, E-6000, and 100% silicone. Others have suggested something called "automotive goop" that is supposed to stay flexible when it dries (unlike gorilla glue, which dries stiff), but I don't know much about it.

If I were to do it again, I'd use the gorilla glue (black), UV-6800 (a uv resistant version of E-6000), and a VERY SMALL bead of 100% silicone (ultra-clear). See my DIY above for details.

Oh, and finish up with a few coats of "Porsche Convertible Top Conditioner" spray to make the sewn seam waterproof.

It's been about a year and my repair is holding up well.

Good luck, and be sure to report back on your results (take pictures!)
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:55 PM
  #19  
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Awesome, thanks. I'll report back with the results...
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Old 07-09-2011, 08:58 PM
  #20  
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Well just finished... Here's the short feedback while I have a second.

1. Removing old glue. Found that a hair dryer & thin flexible metal drywall knife (maybe 1" wide) did the trick, & the goof off was good for the final wipe down. Like fris I didn't remove all the glue, but just about all the big stuff. Found the goof off to be pretty useless in the beginning.
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:00 PM
  #21  
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Yes that's an ice scraper holding the back window up...
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:02 PM
  #22  
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Then I sewed the back edges together, well I had some help.
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:05 PM
  #23  
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Next I cut a piece of wood to match the curve of the window to clamp with. Gorrila glued the 1st seam... clamped and left for 48 hrs.
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:08 PM
  #24  
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Then I used the same setup with the vinyl to canvas seam. The e-6000 glue is def more difficult to work with, spreads weird, gets stringy (think spider webs, so watch out for stray glue, & be deliberate). But after leaving it for 72 hrs, was amazed at the results. I definitely used more glue then the gorilla cause I've seen what gorilla can do when it foams/expands. Basically ran a bead of the e-6000 along the whole seam & then brushed it out, top & bottom... Only a couple spots did it spooge, but it's barely noticeable. Put the top up & it was like new. But decided to sew it cause wtf, I've gotten these far, right?
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:13 PM
  #25  
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So about 5 hours later, 3 broken needles, and a couple blisters, a couple punctured fingers, here's the result. the thread is black (as is the top) it's just the reflection making it look white.

One thing with the Speedy stitcher that I need to point out, DONT USE THE BOBBIN. Just feed the thread through the holes & let it hang out the other end. It makes it easy to replace a needle if you break one. With the thread all wound up on the bobbin, you're effed.

I only did about 6" up the sides, it was getting late & I was tired. Plan on doing the whole thing, but man the top of the window is gonna be a bitch.

Haven't done any water proofing yet, but plan on it & will report back with a final pic when I do.

Thanks fris for all the help... honestly wouldn't have been possible with out your pdf...
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:15 PM
  #26  
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Window repair only runs $400, fyi.
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:37 AM
  #27  
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Not really adding much to the conversation are we? Tell me where? Also, got a place near Vermont that could get it done for $400?

I spoke to 4 different places & all of then said they'd need to take the top off & at that point I might as well just get a new top.

If there are people who've gotten it repaired, please share your experiences. If it can be done for $400, I'd like to see the results.

Last edited by Mdlorenz; 07-10-2011 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 07-10-2011, 01:03 PM
  #28  
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3 out of 5 shops I went to in the SF Bay Area would not even do the repair. Not one of them would do it with the top on. The lowest quote I got was $650 since the top had to come off and a new window installed. I did a repair like the ones shown here but less than a year later the original window is cracking above the bottom edge so it's toast now.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:17 AM
  #29  
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Respect. Looks great.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:37 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Mdlorenz View Post
So about 5 hours later, 3 broken needles, and a couple blisters, a couple punctured fingers, here's the result. the thread is black (as is the top) it's just the reflection making it look white.

One thing with the Speedy stitcher that I need to point out, DONT USE THE BOBBIN. Just feed the thread through the holes & let it hang out the other end. It makes it easy to replace a needle if you break one. With the thread all wound up on the bobbin, you're effed.

I only did about 6" up the sides, it was getting late & I was tired. Plan on doing the whole thing, but man the top of the window is gonna be a bitch.

Haven't done any water proofing yet, but plan on it & will report back with a final pic when I do.

Thanks fris for all the help... honestly wouldn't have been possible with out your pdf...
Glad you had success. Looks good!
I broke a few needles too, but got better at it as I went along. I bought some heavy-duty sewing machine needles that worked better than the needles that came with the speedy stitcher. I also did not use the bobbin, but forgot to mention that detail.

I sewed the entire bottom and sides of the window, but did not do the top seam. I agree that it will be difficult, and mine is not delaminating in that area, so I skipped it. No issues so far.

As far a final waterproofing, several coats of the Porsche convertible top waterproofing spray is great on the threads and the whole top. Mask off the plastic window first, and the paint. As I said before, if you go with a bead of silicone between the plastic and canvas, use it sparingly. However, if you skip that step altogther, I wonder if it would leak at all? Let me know what you end up doing.
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