Coolant Leak . . .
#1
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I noticed a new small leak from the left backside of the car yesterday. I'm going to take some stuff apart today to see if I can trace it from above, but was maybe looking for a head start.
thanks for your ideas
todd
99 coupe
thanks for your ideas
todd
99 coupe
Last edited by CrossT; 12-20-2009 at 10:09 AM. Reason: Misleading Title
#2
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Well, here's a start. That's the water pump. You sure it's oil and maybe not some dried coolant that got dirty? So far as I know there are no oil connections in that area.
#5
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Time to replace the water pump.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#6
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Coolant. Not oil. Color fooled me. The new screech, squeal may be related ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
How is R&R of the Water Pump? Time for a little search . . .
thanks guys
todd
99 coupe
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How is R&R of the Water Pump? Time for a little search . . .
thanks guys
todd
99 coupe
#7
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Water pump is not to hard to do. The trick is to block uner the engine to support it and then remove the engine support bracket. this allows easy access to the bolts holding the pump on. With the support bracket in place it is a PITA to get at all the bolts.
Also, you have to drain the coolant, and once you do this it can be hard to get all the air out of the system. You can repeatedly use the bleeder on the coolant tank, or buy an Airlift II. Here is one on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-A.../dp/B0002SRH5G
Look around, you might find one for less. They work great and make the process easy. But you do need a compressor for shop air to make it work.
Also, you have to drain the coolant, and once you do this it can be hard to get all the air out of the system. You can repeatedly use the bleeder on the coolant tank, or buy an Airlift II. Here is one on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-A.../dp/B0002SRH5G
Look around, you might find one for less. They work great and make the process easy. But you do need a compressor for shop air to make it work.
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#8
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Thanks. Ordered one and will do it as soon as it get in. Not driving the car until then. There are some nice writeups on this.
I don't have a compressor, so I will have to use the bleeder. OH, how does it work? I suppose I ought to get the coolant from the dealer. Or. is there an equivalent aftermarket coolant? Time for anither search . . .
I don't have a compressor, so I will have to use the bleeder. OH, how does it work? I suppose I ought to get the coolant from the dealer. Or. is there an equivalent aftermarket coolant? Time for anither search . . .
#9
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Some owners and the dealers swear by the Porsche coolant, and at aobut $25+ a gallon I can't balame the dealers. I use Peak, either the 50/50 mix of the full strength mixed with distilled water, about $8-$10 a gallon. The bleeder is the black cap on the top of the tank, There is a metal rign that pivots, Put it up and it will bleed air out of the system when it is hot.
#12
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Just replaced the water pump. One of the bolts is a pain, but otherwise the job isn't too bad. The bearing was shot.
I just reused the coolant since it was pretty recent. So, the refill quantitiy is a non-factor. I lost a small amount when I removed the two hoses from the water pump [less than 10 oz I would think].
I want to make sure I get the cooling system bled properly. I filled up as much as possible with the bleeder valve open but was left with a bit in the fill bottle, so I warmed it up and drove around a bit and was able to put all of it back in there. It is up to the filler neck though and it wasn't before. So, I suspect there is still some air bleeding to do.
Should I just drive it and check it? I'd like to know more about how the bleeder valve works? Should I drive it with the valve open, closed, or what?
thanks
I just reused the coolant since it was pretty recent. So, the refill quantitiy is a non-factor. I lost a small amount when I removed the two hoses from the water pump [less than 10 oz I would think].
I want to make sure I get the cooling system bled properly. I filled up as much as possible with the bleeder valve open but was left with a bit in the fill bottle, so I warmed it up and drove around a bit and was able to put all of it back in there. It is up to the filler neck though and it wasn't before. So, I suspect there is still some air bleeding to do.
Should I just drive it and check it? I'd like to know more about how the bleeder valve works? Should I drive it with the valve open, closed, or what?
thanks
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Having recently completed this very DIY here is my 2 cents. Bring it up to temp
and then allow it to cool completely (over night). Top off coolant and then
repeat the cycle again as needed to purge the air out of system. It took me three cycles to complete.
and then allow it to cool completely (over night). Top off coolant and then
repeat the cycle again as needed to purge the air out of system. It took me three cycles to complete.
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I am slowly losing coolant but can't figure from where. I would say I have to top it off less than once a month. I might buy that airlift tool to pressure check the coolant system. Any suggestions for places to look for a leak?
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Two highly probably causes:
1) Coolant tank top may be leaking. The part number for latest version of the top ends in 04 (I think).
2) Coolant tank. They crack at the bottom of the tank, presumably from the heat off the engine. If it is leaking, there will be a white, crusty residue at the bottom, on the outside of the tank.
1) Coolant tank top may be leaking. The part number for latest version of the top ends in 04 (I think).
2) Coolant tank. They crack at the bottom of the tank, presumably from the heat off the engine. If it is leaking, there will be a white, crusty residue at the bottom, on the outside of the tank.