Oil Wars, Revisited!!!
02-16-2008, 05:53 PM
#17
02-16-2008, 06:11 PM
#18
Drifting
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Prince George's County, MD
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I think most people with any knowledge of how an engine works and wants to properly protect the engine, no longer uses Mobil Water. Worse thing you can ever put in an engine. However, there will always be those that fall for the intense marketting of a product. Moving away from Mobil Water will provide you with better Variocam operation, less oil leakage, less oil burning and better protection of bearings and journals especially at lower rpms and high load conditions..
If I remember correctly, someone on this board has been arguing against using 0W40 for years now. I can't remember who, tho.
If I remember correctly, someone on this board has been arguing against using 0W40 for years now. I can't remember who, tho.
02-16-2008, 06:13 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
None of these studies ever take into consideration the pressure of the oiling system which is their biggest fault. Without adequate pressure, even a 50 weight oil is not enough to keep componants such as the crank from slapping against the journals. This is exactly why lugging an engine is so bad.
ALL oil ratings are based on the oil properties at atmospheric pressure which, for the most part, is irrelevant when used in an engine. What is it going to do under pressure? What pressure is needed to maintain a film thick and strong enough to hold componants apart? Does a thicker oil really take longer to reach components while under pressure? If so, does the additional time it takes cause any damage?
This, among other faults, is a big problem with Mobil Water. Your oil system is not built to provide enough pressure to keep this water compressed enough to hold it's form between parts when operated at warm temperatures and low rpm's.
Look at all the people who report extremely low oil pressure when running Mobil Water. There are many on here reporting less than 10 psi at idle. With these low pressures, the engine is a time bomb, especially if sudden load is introduced. Push a sleeve out, score a journal, etc. Component slack is one of you engine's biggest enemies. Either increase the flow of your oil pump or move to an oil that will maintain the proper pressure.
I am not going to rehash all the faults of Mobil Water, but those who care should do a little research and/or testing on their own. Sometimes, even common sense can change your mind.
ALL oil ratings are based on the oil properties at atmospheric pressure which, for the most part, is irrelevant when used in an engine. What is it going to do under pressure? What pressure is needed to maintain a film thick and strong enough to hold componants apart? Does a thicker oil really take longer to reach components while under pressure? If so, does the additional time it takes cause any damage?
This, among other faults, is a big problem with Mobil Water. Your oil system is not built to provide enough pressure to keep this water compressed enough to hold it's form between parts when operated at warm temperatures and low rpm's.
Look at all the people who report extremely low oil pressure when running Mobil Water. There are many on here reporting less than 10 psi at idle. With these low pressures, the engine is a time bomb, especially if sudden load is introduced. Push a sleeve out, score a journal, etc. Component slack is one of you engine's biggest enemies. Either increase the flow of your oil pump or move to an oil that will maintain the proper pressure.
I am not going to rehash all the faults of Mobil Water, but those who care should do a little research and/or testing on their own. Sometimes, even common sense can change your mind.
02-16-2008, 07:09 PM
#21
Race Car
But Bruce, you should use oil in your engine, it works better with some in it.........
02-16-2008, 10:57 PM
#23
Ironman 140.6
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
More fodder here.....
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/410614-what-is-the-best-bang-for-the-buck-mod-you-have-done-or-are-planning.html
A little off topic, but I guess you throw it in where you can....
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/410614-what-is-the-best-bang-for-the-buck-mod-you-have-done-or-are-planning.html
A little off topic, but I guess you throw it in where you can....
02-17-2008, 12:39 AM
#24
Drifting
Arrrrgggghhhh! This is freakin' killing me. I run my 996 GT3 as a "track only" car, and my local dealer insists on Mobil 0W-40. I then decide to take it to the guys that maintain GT3 cups (same engine) at Miller Motorsports Park (Synergy) and they recommend Mobile 15W-50 TriSyn.
So now what? Help - anyone, anyone...
-B
So now what? Help - anyone, anyone...
-B
02-17-2008, 12:50 AM
#25
Arrrrgggghhhh! This is freakin' killing me. I run my 996 GT3 as a "track only" car, and my local dealer insists on Mobil 0W-40. I then decide to take it to the guys that maintain GT3 cups (same engine) at Miller Motorsports Park (Synergy) and they recommend Mobile 15W-50 TriSyn.
So now what? Help - anyone, anyone...
-B
So now what? Help - anyone, anyone...
-B
02-17-2008, 01:39 AM
#26
Ironman 140.6
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
02-17-2008, 10:08 AM
#28
Nordschleife Master
This constant argument cracks me up - as far as I'm concerned Porsche is the final word in everything Porsche - We can choose to ignore what they say, but in the end I think they know what's best for the machines that they designed - certainly better than Joe Schmo from Cyberville, who could easily be a 15 year old "expert" with 30 years of experience in driving Porsches.
... not that we have any of those here.
02-17-2008, 10:09 AM
#29
Race Director
I use 0w-40 in the winter months and change to 15w-50 for the summer. I have noticed no significant differences between the two viscosities and my engine tells me it likes both.
02-17-2008, 10:20 AM
#30
Well said Ray.
This constant argument cracks me up - as far as I'm concerned Porsche is the final word in everything Porsche - We can choose to ignore what they say, but in the end I think they know what's best for the machines that they designed - certainly better than Joe Schmo from Cyberville, who could easily be a 15 year old "expert" with 30 years of experience in driving Porsches.
... not that we have any of those here.
This constant argument cracks me up - as far as I'm concerned Porsche is the final word in everything Porsche - We can choose to ignore what they say, but in the end I think they know what's best for the machines that they designed - certainly better than Joe Schmo from Cyberville, who could easily be a 15 year old "expert" with 30 years of experience in driving Porsches.
... not that we have any of those here.
Not a shred of evidence that Porsche is wrong, nor how nor why. And not a shred of credentials to support the argument. Breatharians stand on firmer dialectical ground than this.