Sweating RMS
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Sweating RMS
I got my IMS, RMS and clutch changed last December as the IMS was sweating (the area never really leaked oil). The area around the RMS is now sweating again (not leaking) and I brought my car (996 3.4l C2 MY00) back to the indy to get the seals changed (again) under warranty.
The indy just called and said, it's not leaking, so they do not recommend to get the seals changed. It'll not stop the sweating if we change the seals as they believe the crank shaft is moving, so the ultimate repair would be a new motor.
What do you guys think? Should I insist on having them change the seals again?
The indy just called and said, it's not leaking, so they do not recommend to get the seals changed. It'll not stop the sweating if we change the seals as they believe the crank shaft is moving, so the ultimate repair would be a new motor.
What do you guys think? Should I insist on having them change the seals again?
#3
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I just talked to a Porsche mechanic in EU and he confirmed that he changed RMS and IMS on some cars several times but it has usually nothing to do with the motor. It's sometimes just hard to get it sealed completely.
#6
Ironman 140.6
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It is my understanding that an engine with this problem will always leak so if the tool show the motor is out of spec they replace the whole motor.
#7
Ironman 140.6
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
More info here
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...&st=0&#entry24
It appears that a go-no-go fixture is used to determine if the seal bore is concentric to the crankshaft. If the variation is .03mm or less you get a replacement seal. If more than .03mm you get a new motor. Now with the new fixture they attempt to slide the tool over the crank and into the seal bore. If the fixture goes in you get a replacement seal. If it does not go in you get a new motor. With the go-no-go fixture the mechanic no longer has to measure with a caliper.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...&st=0&#entry24
It appears that a go-no-go fixture is used to determine if the seal bore is concentric to the crankshaft. If the variation is .03mm or less you get a replacement seal. If more than .03mm you get a new motor. Now with the new fixture they attempt to slide the tool over the crank and into the seal bore. If the fixture goes in you get a replacement seal. If it does not go in you get a new motor. With the go-no-go fixture the mechanic no longer has to measure with a caliper.
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#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thank you for your reply and the detailed explanation Ray! I used it when I talked again to the indy this afternoon. They will take the transmission apart and change the seals tomorrow.
I actually told them that they didn't say that my crankshaft was moving/non-centric when they changed it last year, so there's a high probability that the seals are the issue and not the motor as they used the new tool already last time.
I'll keep you posted how the story ends when I get my car back - probably tomorrow night. I bet/hope my crankshaft is still straight.
Btw, the mechanic in EU said that he has seen non centric crankshafts mainly on the very early 996 cars (in EU the first '98 cars). Not too many of the '00 or '01 cars had the issue.
I actually told them that they didn't say that my crankshaft was moving/non-centric when they changed it last year, so there's a high probability that the seals are the issue and not the motor as they used the new tool already last time.
I'll keep you posted how the story ends when I get my car back - probably tomorrow night. I bet/hope my crankshaft is still straight.
Btw, the mechanic in EU said that he has seen non centric crankshafts mainly on the very early 996 cars (in EU the first '98 cars). Not too many of the '00 or '01 cars had the issue.
#9
Drifting
Join Date: Jul 2005
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Yeah, sounds like someone wanted $3k to install an engine for you instead of fixing the RMS under their guaranty, I'd take it somewhere else to have the work done. The engine isn['t blown until it's blown, well unless it's under warranty.. lol
Last edited by washington dc porsche; 10-03-2007 at 07:09 PM.
#10
nogo guage is opsolete, we use snap guages now to measure at 8 points around the crank, I still have only seen 2 that were out of spec.
it seems most cars that re leak are never driven , how often do you drive the car?
Do you have a repair order from the replacement which has the seal part numbers on it?
see if you can have the old seal
it seems most cars that re leak are never driven , how often do you drive the car?
Do you have a repair order from the replacement which has the seal part numbers on it?
see if you can have the old seal
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
nogo guage is opsolete, we use snap guages now to measure at 8 points around the crank, I still have only seen 2 that were out of spec.
it seems most cars that re leak are never driven , how often do you drive the car?
Do you have a repair order from the replacement which has the seal part numbers on it?
see if you can have the old seal
it seems most cars that re leak are never driven , how often do you drive the car?
Do you have a repair order from the replacement which has the seal part numbers on it?
see if you can have the old seal
The invoice from last December's repair shows following part numbers:
996 105 017.02 Intermediate Shaft Seal-N (IMS)
999 113 490.41 Crankshaft Seal-N (RMS)
Description: Replaced leaking Rear Main Crank Shaft Seal and Aux Shaft Seal.
I believe the RMS # is wrong (maybe typo on invoice). Shouldn't the correct and latest part-number be 997 101 212.00?
What should I do with- or see on the old seal? Do you think they used an old part?
Thanks, Harold
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
So what do I learn? Indys are not too much cheaper than the dealer - stealer but there can be some heartburn after the meal. Only issue is that the dealers here in the DC area don't need (want) business. They already have too much! Way too many Porsche around here!
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Got my car back! They changed the RMS (not even sure if they did the IMS as well), put my new AASCO LWFW in and charged me 2 hours labor.
They called me yesterday, telling me that my car is ready ... 3 min. later they call again: "we can't put it into reverse".
Today I called: "What's the status on my car?" They: "Whoever put the short-shifter in, messed up with the cables, so we had to put the center console out and fix it." 2 hours labor Anyway; I feel that I can agree to idemnify them (partly) for their loss due to the warrenty repair.
The LWFW makes quite a change; will be on the track on the weekend and look forward to see how it works out.
They called me yesterday, telling me that my car is ready ... 3 min. later they call again: "we can't put it into reverse".
Today I called: "What's the status on my car?" They: "Whoever put the short-shifter in, messed up with the cables, so we had to put the center console out and fix it." 2 hours labor Anyway; I feel that I can agree to idemnify them (partly) for their loss due to the warrenty repair.
The LWFW makes quite a change; will be on the track on the weekend and look forward to see how it works out.
#15
Drifting
Join Date: May 2006
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Good article on the RMS issue here:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...e=post&id=3223
You'll need to sign-up for RennTech (free) to view it
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...e=post&id=3223
You'll need to sign-up for RennTech (free) to view it