New clutch and flywheel questions
#1
Track Day
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Hi, I need a new clutch and am thinking about doing the flywheel as well, I would like to get a setup that gives me the following things
1) High performance clutch and lightwieght flywheel
2) Reduce the clutch pedal travel (im not sure if this is possible)
Is a high performance clutch going to last a longer or shorter time than stock, also what advantages will I see with the lightweight flywheel, any disadvantages?
Any recommended setups would be great, also while the work is being done is there anything else I should do to the engine?
Thanks in advance
AC
1) High performance clutch and lightwieght flywheel
2) Reduce the clutch pedal travel (im not sure if this is possible)
Is a high performance clutch going to last a longer or shorter time than stock, also what advantages will I see with the lightweight flywheel, any disadvantages?
Any recommended setups would be great, also while the work is being done is there anything else I should do to the engine?
Thanks in advance
AC
#2
Instructor
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getting ready to do my clutch as well and everything i've read so far as led me to this...for a daily driver DO NOT do lightweight flywheel as it has no benefits, i was also looking towards aftermarket clutches as have decided to go with an OEM SACHS replacement...hopefully when i pull it apart flywheel is OK
#4
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Originally Posted by arthurc
Hi, I need a new clutch and am thinking about doing the flywheel as well, I would like to get a setup that gives me the following things
1) High performance clutch and lightwieght flywheel
1) High performance clutch and lightwieght flywheel
Originally Posted by arthurc
2) Reduce the clutch pedal travel (im not sure if this is possible)
Originally Posted by arthurc
Is a high performance clutch going to last a longer or shorter time than stock, also what advantages will I see with the lightweight flywheel, any disadvantages?
LWFW is for reducing rotational mass and therefore allowing for less power to be "used" to move the engine's internals...thus more power during acceleration.
Originally Posted by arthurc
Any recommended setups would be great, also while the work is being done is there anything else I should do to the engine?
#5
Intermediate
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This is the same advice I've heard from everyone I've spoken to. Stick with Sachs (OEM) clutch for every day driving. Lightweight flywheels provide quicker revs, but this can also be done thru ECU tuning on eGas versions of the 996 (02+).
A colleague of mine installed a GT3 clutch with lightweight flywheel in his 996TT and it feels great, except in every day driving at the stop light. With the clutch disengaged, there is an ever so subtle "tinny" sound. It goes away whenever the clutch or throttle are engaged.
____________________
SpeedPhreak
02 996 C2 - K&N Aircharger, B&M SSK, Tubi Manifolds and Sport Mufflers
A colleague of mine installed a GT3 clutch with lightweight flywheel in his 996TT and it feels great, except in every day driving at the stop light. With the clutch disengaged, there is an ever so subtle "tinny" sound. It goes away whenever the clutch or throttle are engaged.
____________________
SpeedPhreak
02 996 C2 - K&N Aircharger, B&M SSK, Tubi Manifolds and Sport Mufflers
#7
Intermediate
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I love it. It was one of the first mods I put on the car. The intake sound was pretty good over 3000 RPM, but overall net performance was negligible. Though, I did achieve 4.7 sec 0-60 and 13.12 sec 1/4 times with 100 octane race gas sans spare tire.
Was a little paranoid in the rain at first, but never took the weather sheath off. I think people who remove that and over-oil the filter run the risk of getting all kinds of gunk into the intake tube, MAF, throttle body and down stream into the engine. That's probably where most of the negative feedback has comes from. (If you don't know why it's there, don't *&^! with it or accept the consequences.)
Still happy 13 months after having it installed. Cheap way to get good acoustics and mild performance in the mid-range, but no top-end benefit. Heard of issues with pre-2002 996 installs mostly related to improperly re-connecting the MAF wiring harness. Just like any other mod, know what you're getting into before you take it on. This board has been awesome for that.
SpeedPhreak
Was a little paranoid in the rain at first, but never took the weather sheath off. I think people who remove that and over-oil the filter run the risk of getting all kinds of gunk into the intake tube, MAF, throttle body and down stream into the engine. That's probably where most of the negative feedback has comes from. (If you don't know why it's there, don't *&^! with it or accept the consequences.)
Still happy 13 months after having it installed. Cheap way to get good acoustics and mild performance in the mid-range, but no top-end benefit. Heard of issues with pre-2002 996 installs mostly related to improperly re-connecting the MAF wiring harness. Just like any other mod, know what you're getting into before you take it on. This board has been awesome for that.
SpeedPhreak
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#8
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just did the whole analysis, and ended up with stock factory parts. my shop actually installed an entire kit with lwf, and it made noises. that was a no no in my instructions to them. out it went and back to dmf.
btw, my egine was bone dry from the outside. when they dropped the tranny, they found seepage from the rms, so the put in the new seal. happy as a clam.
btw, my egine was bone dry from the outside. when they dropped the tranny, they found seepage from the rms, so the put in the new seal. happy as a clam.
#9
Burning Brakes
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I added the upgraded clutch to take the added stress from the LWFW....... I'm glad I did....
If you can take the cement mixer noise from the LWFW it's a great upgrade performance wise.... One drawback is it likes the higher RPM's and that doesn't lend itself to street driving... my car spends more time at the track than on the street... and when it's on the street I just live with it...
Cheers.
If you can take the cement mixer noise from the LWFW it's a great upgrade performance wise.... One drawback is it likes the higher RPM's and that doesn't lend itself to street driving... my car spends more time at the track than on the street... and when it's on the street I just live with it...
Cheers.
#11
Burning Brakes
#12
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I like it engaging higher than lower. All cars I've owned engaged at around the same point. S2000, M3, 911. The 911 is the stiffest stock clutch. I had a stiffer aftermarket clutch on the supercharged S2000.
#13
Drifting
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Someone said that there was a way to adjust the clutch to engage faster? This is a hydraulic clutch, and I was told that there is absolutely no way to adjust it. It is what it is. Mine engages a bit high, and after checking with the dealership and some indys, I was told that there is no adjustment.....the only adjustment being a new clutch if it's slipping.
#15
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I am getting a clutch kit installed this week. I have decided to go with a SPEC stage 1. I have been running a 3tage 3+ on my rx7 for a year and love it. Has nayone else on here ever used the SPEC in a Porsche? I might be the first. I found a local shop to do the install and RMS for $1100 and that includes a Porsche tech over seeing the job.. If you decide to DIY I can post showing step by step on it. But for 1100 I can not pass it up. The shop has done a GT2 clutch before so I feel they are qualified.