Yet another PSE style exhaust mod
#47
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Jose, CA.
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Did this PSE hack to my stock '99 cans about 6 weeks ago.
Used 1.5" stainless "U" mandrel bent tubing. Worked perfectly.
The car now sounds as it should have from the factory.
The hack was done by Sportech here in Campbell CA. Was the first one they had done on a 996. They have been modifying stock 986, 914 and older 911mufflers for years! But my 996 was the first time they had cut and modified a stock 996 exhaust. Usually customers want brand new stuff like Factory PSE, B&B, etc installed.
Showed them the pics and a couple hours later I was on my way.
A very worth while mod if you like hearing your car
Used 1.5" stainless "U" mandrel bent tubing. Worked perfectly.
The car now sounds as it should have from the factory.
The hack was done by Sportech here in Campbell CA. Was the first one they had done on a 996. They have been modifying stock 986, 914 and older 911mufflers for years! But my 996 was the first time they had cut and modified a stock 996 exhaust. Usually customers want brand new stuff like Factory PSE, B&B, etc installed.
Showed them the pics and a couple hours later I was on my way.
A very worth while mod if you like hearing your car
#49
Cardigan Millionaire
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Has anyone done the MKI and MKII mods together on a set of 3.6 cans?
I have already done the MKII mod to my 3.6 cans, love the sound, but a little more noise would be nice.
If it makes a difference I will most likely do it, but I don't want the hassle of lifting the car taking off the wheels and bumper cover, pulling the cans, and cracking out the tig welder if the difference wont be that noticable.
I have already done the MKII mod to my 3.6 cans, love the sound, but a little more noise would be nice.
If it makes a difference I will most likely do it, but I don't want the hassle of lifting the car taking off the wheels and bumper cover, pulling the cans, and cracking out the tig welder if the difference wont be that noticable.
#51
Instructor
I'd like to try this mod. I think if you could add a valve to the pipe then you could turn the bypass on or off. Valve open and bypass is on for more aggressive sound and valve closed and you're back to factory sound. Then get a PSE button and hook it up to control the valves. This might be a fun project. Anyone know of any after market valves to use? Preferably vacuum actuated so that the button hookup is just controlling the vacuum valve.
#54
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Saltnes, Østfold
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Old thread, but here goes:
I'm about to go the Fister route myself, but I'm having trouble deciding what size I'm going to use on the bypass tubes. I know it's been a subject of debate, but I'm torn between 1 1/2" and 2" pipe diameter, and weither to get them welded like in this thread or just straight from inlet to outlet (without the half-U-bend). I'm thinking 2" might be too loud, even if some people describe it as being "mild". I do have the Carrera Power Kit, so I guess my headers give off a little more sound than the Stock ones - and I'll need to identify my cans as I have a mk1 with a retrofitted 3.6L.
What are your thoughts about 1 1/2" vs 2" and "half-U bend" vs "straight" welding?
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Marius
I'm about to go the Fister route myself, but I'm having trouble deciding what size I'm going to use on the bypass tubes. I know it's been a subject of debate, but I'm torn between 1 1/2" and 2" pipe diameter, and weither to get them welded like in this thread or just straight from inlet to outlet (without the half-U-bend). I'm thinking 2" might be too loud, even if some people describe it as being "mild". I do have the Carrera Power Kit, so I guess my headers give off a little more sound than the Stock ones - and I'll need to identify my cans as I have a mk1 with a retrofitted 3.6L.
What are your thoughts about 1 1/2" vs 2" and "half-U bend" vs "straight" welding?
---
Marius
#55
Rennlist Member
Rolling in here as a result of finding this thread to be the most informative so I took my mufflers down to a local muffler shop that has been around a looooong time. They've never done this one but given the amount of 'salt on their shoulders' (read: they've welded a few things before), I decided to let them git after it.
Here's the rub- I'm doing this mod for a 996 GT3 and there are definitely 2 'gotchyas':
1. If the weld to the 'inlet' tube of the muffler is too close to the cat/muff junction, it will interfere with the factory headers!
2. If the weld to the 'outlet' tube is too close to the muffler shell, it will interfere with the header/cat mating plates!
Wally (the welder) looked at the photos in this thread and eyeballed it to a 'T'. I got extraordinarily lucky this afternoon when I hung the mufflers and you couldn't fit a gnat's eyebrow hair between the bypass pipe and the factory header outlet tube. I'm taking him a 12 pack tomorrow to keep the karma heading in the right direction :-) and this is not to mention the poor SOB sliced the end of his finger off when his hole-saw blew apart and fragged his finger. He had his entire finger wrapped in black tape when I picked up the mufflers and he told me how all the blood got on the muffler. Wally was unfazed by the event as he was still working on another car when I showed up...he was not seeking a safe space and a bubby but I digress...
BTW- I went with a 1.5" bypass and you don't know how much is 'enough' until you know how much is 'too much'. I had muffler bypass pipes on for a week and while the car is not a DD, it was 'more than enough' for 70% of my driving. This mod (along with the Sprint Booster) are the two best things I believe one can do to put the right sound and throttle response into an already wonderful machine.