When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
New product annoucement! plus discount for Rennlist members
Hi Folks; I've been off the forum for a while but been rather busy with a new product for 996 and 997 models!
After breaking my oil filler tube during some unrelated work on my 996 early last year I decided to design something better. I've spent a lot of time working on this and have been running the product in my personal car for many months now.
It has many advantages over the stock Porsche tube; in addition to being much more robust and reliable and makes working on your car easier. I'd be happy to answer any questions; a lot is outlined on the website at www.9ii.pro
I created a coupon code for the first 5 purchases of the full kit; simply use RENNLIST24CODE and receive $15 off (full kit only at this time).
Fascinating. Looks like another good idea to fix a common problem, but of course, I have some concerns...
1. Who does your plastics and have they've been tested thoroughly for resistance to engine heat and vibration over time? As we've seen before, certain low grade plastics in this operating environment can crack or even melt.
2. I understand why you didn't produce another ribbed neck design that extends to the airbox, but why the second section of the tube?
3. Also, the recessed double lip seal doesn't appear to be adequate enough to seal off the two sections of pipe. It appears to lay to low in the channel. Wouldn't a gasket work better?
4. With so many mounted points in that area where the filler tube protrudes out past the alternator, wouldn't a metal bracket be better than zip ties?
Fascinating. Looks like another good idea to fix a common problem, but of course, I have some concerns...
1. Who does your plastics and have they've been tested thoroughly for resistance to engine heat and vibration over time? As we've seen before, certain low grade plastics in this operating environment can crack or even melt.
2. I understand why you didn't produce another ribbed neck design that extends to the airbox, but why the second section of the tube?
3. Also, the recessed double lip seal doesn't appear to be adequate enough to seal off the two sections of pipe. It appears to lay to low in the channel. Wouldn't a gasket work better?
4. With so many mounted points in that area where the filler tube protrudes out past the alternator, wouldn't a metal bracket be better than zip ties?
5. It looks like the oil cap is proprietary or at least different than the stock one. Is this the case and if so, I'm curious why?
I think the zip ties might be a deal breaker for me.
Fascinating. Looks like another good idea to fix a common problem, but of course, I have some concerns...
1. Who does your plastics and have they've been tested thoroughly for resistance to engine heat and vibration over time? As we've seen before, certain low grade plastics in this operating environment can crack or even melt.
2. I understand why you didn't produce another ribbed neck design that extends to the airbox, but why the second section of the tube?
3. Also, the recessed double lip seal doesn't appear to be adequate enough to seal off the two sections of pipe. It appears to lay to low in the channel. Wouldn't a gasket work better?
4. With so many mounted points in that area where the filler tube protrudes out past the alternator, wouldn't a metal bracket be better than zip ties?
Happy to answer your questions!
The plastics are a premium brand Nylon 12 formulation. If you look on the homepage there is an image of a chain link made in the same material, the link is hand size and is able to fully support the weight of a 3000lb vehicle. Nylon 12 is used extensively in other auto parts; as well as being a very strong material the mechanical design is very generous in terms of thickness. The tube walls themselves are around 5X thicker than the stock tube.
The rib section will always fail, over time and heat cycles. The ribs on the stock part bridge the engine to the vehicle body and so every vibration and engine movement constantly stresses it. Even having a thick walled ribbed section would offer no advantage. The tube is in 2 sections for various reasons, one is for ease of installation. It is much easier to install the short lower tube and get to the difficult mounting bolts to the crankcase. The upper tube can be removed for more engine access in 1 minute, a plastic plug is supplied in the kit to blank off the lower tube during engine work. If one of the tubes is ever damaged then a single replacement tube can be ordered, no need to replace the whole thing.
The X-ring seal between the 2 tubes seals very well and is extremely reliable, replacement seals are also very easy to obtain (I also sell a spare parts kit in addition which includes this). A gasket would have to be custom made and therefore harder to source across the globe. As far as the connection between the 2 tubes they both incorporate thermally bonded metal hardware. When tightening the 2 tubes together a metal on metal connection is formed, this is much more vibration resistant than sandwiching a gasket; which over time would compress and loosen the connection. I went through a lot of connection design iterations on this and its very robust. O-rings have been in use a long time in automotive applications and are very reliable, Porsche uses them in their vehicles all over, you'll find a large one on your throttle body to plastic inlet manifold.
Adding brackets would have pushed up the price of the kit and I am trying to keep it cost effective; the zip ties are just extra support at the end of the tube for security. Also Porsche has different configurations in the 996/997 models so each would need its own custom bracket, further raising costs.
5. It looks like the oil cap is proprietary or at least different than the stock one. Is this the case and if so, I'm curious why?
I think the zip ties might be a deal breaker for me.
The cap is actually off the shelf and available worldwide. There are also many aftermarket aluminum version available. I'll attach an image of some examples of aftermarket caps.
I considered designing the new tube to fit the stock Porsche 996/997 cap; however it has some fragile bayonet features on it (and also the tube that it fits to have weak thin walled features). For this product I was trying to make it as absolutely bullet proof as I could, so I looked for something better.
If you want to see an image of an aftermarket cap installed; there is a PDF installation manual available on the 'how to fit' page. If you scroll down to the section on aftermarket caps you'll see a red aluminum cap installed.
Another question would be would it work with UAOS, and if it will, be nice to have a boss at the bottom for the drain line.
I think you're referring to the attached image? it might be feasible to add this fitting to my product; I'll have to look into it further. Also my product incorporates an integral debris catch (I'll attach a photo), which would be an advantage if such a connection came loose inside the tube. I'm unsure how the UAOS fixes the port in place on the inside.
Correct, and if folks want to save some money I offer a kit with no cap and they can source their own at lower cost. I have to add some markup due to shipping/packaging costs etc.
As I mentioned in a previous reply there are a huge array of aftermarket CNC machined aluminum caps available if folks prefer a more designer look.
I think you're referring to the attached image? it might be feasible to add this fitting to my product; I'll have to look into it further. Also my product incorporates an integral debris catch (I'll attach a photo), which would be an advantage if such a connection came loose inside the tube. I'm unsure how the UAOS fixes the port in place on the inside.
The UAOS uses a " Uniseal" to make the drain connection to the oil fill tube ...A .500 hole is made in the oil fill tube, then the Uniseal is placed in the .500 hole, the Uniseal has a tapered inside hole that expands as you press in the brass connector to lock it in place, then attach the rubber drain hose .... Has a rating of up to 145 psi pressure....lol
That's a good looking oil fill tube, I could easily fit the UAOS drain fitting into it...( no different than putting it in the OEM oil fill tube).. I just wish the OEM cap would fit since a lot of people have them set-up for manometer tests to test AOS and blow-by tests...
Last edited by Porschetech3; 01-31-2024 at 10:50 PM.
01-31-2024, 05:42 PM
New product annoucement! plus discount for Rennlist members
