Sweet - my AOS's boot didn't come with that colored finger lock on the bottom (I know what you're talking about) so am going to have to remove the boot and the clamps together / then reinstall using the OE clamps I think.

 

99951263000 mk1 part# of clamp with lock. Its the top clamp. The lower one is just a hose clamp.

 

on the AOS currently in the car they both have those hose clamps on it. This would prob make it easier but think I can just finagle it with a pair of hose clamp jaws that lock in place (mine do and makes it easy)...unless I'm misunderstanding you and you really think this is the way to go.

 

any way that u can get it to work is the correct way. I was just adding info to the thread

 

update- *fixed*
Changed out that ribbed tube on the bottom of the AOS and used hose clamps instead. prob wouldve been fine with a new clamp (see jeeper's post). No need to unloosen the AOS or disconnect. Definitely undo that ground wire with bank 1's variocam connector though for more space.

First installed it with hose clamps, then decided to try to do it the OE way reusing those snap clamps and even with the clamp jaws I have, it's almost impossible (I'm sure if I kept trying I would've gotten it) to get those clamps back on and get that tube to seat fully/correctly. That, and you have to watch that you don't pinch the tube anywhere. I gave it a solid hour.
Anyways tried my best to get at least one of the snap clamps on and it just wasn't working, so went back to the hose clamps. I loosened the clamps all the way and put the tube on first. Tube goes on very easily without clamps. Then slide the hose clamps into their slots and twist to get them to seat correctly. Tighten (but don't overtighten) both clamps. I actually put the bottom clamp on by undoing it fully and then reconnecting it around the tube. I only had one clamp wrapped around the tube when I initially installed it. Found it to be easier to get it to seat correctly that way. clamps use the 8mm socket.

Anyways she idles perfectly and is running great. Thanks all for the help. edit- the hiss from the OP video is also gone.

 

Now please get a manometer and check the vacuum at the oil cap. That way u can verify the aos is operating correctly and u can check it when u do oil changes.

 

Or how about instead of a manometer, just go to a local autozone to pickup some window washer fluid and have her turn into a smoke machine?

Dude..... unreal amount of smoke. Turned it off immediately and towed it home. Looks like that AOS is going in this weekend. Going to bite the bullet and do it myself. Only thing am worried about is that I had to crank it a few times to get it to turn over in order to get it in my driveway (no other possible way with towtruck and hills out here). Then I pushed it into my garage. Hoping I didn't do any lasting damage and it will finally be fixed after changing the AOS. I wonder if fixing that hose / vacuum leak somehow caused the AOS to finally show symptoms.

For the record it was running great for about ~50 miles there before a very loud squeal started to come about this evening, then the smoke followed.

 

No, what happened is that the AOS started failing first and causing high vacuum on the crankcase, this put extra stress on the old tired rubber accordion hose on the bottom of the AOS and caused it to fail which let vacuum/air from outside to the inside and caused your idle problems.and missfires...

Fixing the rubber accordion hose ONLY caused all the vacuum to go back on the crankcase/oil sump....sucking up a massive amount of oil...

You will know if you have killed the motor by (1). as soon as you replace the AOS and start driving if you start loosing coolant through a cracked cylinder or (2 ) if it bent a rod you may not know for quite a while if it starts burning oil or if you have a noise....

 

So is everyone letting me fix that accordion hose without mentioning that if the AOS is bad, it will only make things worse? Lol, did I miss something here?

No one has even mentioned deleting the AOS altogether. Or the fact that you've been driving with an AOS delete / catch can setup for 25,000 miles (that was in 2019 at least) and have been fine with it.

Leaning towards an AOS delete / catch can setup now, at least to start driving again. Maybe will pull plugs and crank first to get any possible oil out but I don't think there's much.

Also I found a quote from you on a thread I went deep into saying something about the rubber piece inside the AOS failing due to extreme vacuum fluctuations, or that original AOS's rarely fail (even though they obviously will eventually). I thought it'd be interesting to note that the guy driving my car at the car wash had no idea how to drive a manual, so he'd rev my car up, then let off the gas completely / use the clutch to move - rinse and repeat. Not sure if that had anything to do with mine failing, but I guarantee you my car ran perfectly before that day at the car wash. Originally I thought it was water being sprayed on the coils via pressure washer but now am thinking it was the dude's driving that did it in, even if it was for a short amount of time.

Anyways, I like 808Bill's AOS delete setup a lot and will more than likely go with that. If I'm understanding correctly, his AOS completely failed, like mine, and his catch can setup works just fine.

 

Expensive car wash. Between that and a different post about a “friend” roasting someone clutch, these cars can be expensive enough for a single owner, let alone, ‘renting’ it to someone else, even for just a few mins…

The car wash could have just been a coincidence, or a straw that broke the camel’s back.

The AOS on these cars is routinely at the top of the list of failure items, along with water pump, bore scoring, IMSB, Y cable, solenoid/tensioner pads on 3.4s, etc. Not much you or anyone can do about it, aside from preventatively replacing it, which is not super easy to do ($1000, much of which is labor).

I’d consider the UAOS as well. Nothing against the catch can, but the UAOS was designed by a pro and installed by other pro engine builders, which means data points of hundreds. I’m just saying it is recommended more than any other AOS option.

I guess this thread is also a reminder to anyone else who has a loud hissing/vacuum sound that suddenly emanates from the engine bay. The 996 experts who have been around the block would know, but a newbie would not. Many of the folks on this thread were mentioning the vacuum test. Again, it’s not really your fault you didn’t drop everything, quit your job, and get on this asap.

It’s just unlucky.

 

it was designed by pt3 above if I’m not mistaken.

id like to drive the car today though and blow the oil out / smoke. Planning on covering the TB (I have the mechanical cable TB) and just undoing the hose to the left that comes from (goes to??) the AOS. More or less to see if she’s still healthy and so I don’t have to tow it to a shop / can drive it there.

anything I’m missing? Obviously can’t leave that hose hanging there with no end as oil will come out (because my AOS is bad), but was thinking I could zip tie a hose and just route it to an empty can / bottle for the time being (however long it take for the smoke to disappear). If that works I’ll prob just go the catch can route and route the vac/vaper line to bank 1’s header. Saw 808bill route it to a nipple on the oil cap but am unsure of how that works correctly….

edit - getting some quotes at nearby shops. Think I can find someone to do it for ~$500 cash and they'll use my vaico aos. Have two shops I've reached out to / have been recommended. 8 hours is an absolute rip off. Can be done with bank 1 manifold on car and exp tank still there. Lowering of engine needed and alternator removed helps but that's it. Dude told me this over the phone and then admitted to charging 8 hours when it takes him 1. Can't blame him, prob makes a ton of money.

 

808Bill is running the UAOS on his car now, and has been for quite a while. In fact he just ordered a UAOS for his wifes ( new to her) car that I will shipping out tomorrow..

The UAOS is not just a catch can/AOS delete, It is a Patented redesign of the complete AOS System....It has a diaphragm that is twice as thick as the factory one and moves it to close to the throttle body for easy service, and is 4x more effficient at removing oil from the blow-by gasses, and incorporates an in-line accumulator that ( on the Track Version) has another oil drain back to the engine..and makes the "AOS Body" a "Llifetime Guaranteed part".....so no need to ever have to spend the time/money to get way back in there..

You can temporarily disconnect the AOS breather pipe from the intake and plug the intake, and leave the breather hose open ( it will have oil vapor/smoke coming out) or even run it to a catch can ( it will still have oil vapor/smoke coming out of the catch can) just to run the engine to see if there is any damage and to clear the smoke/oil from the exhaust/cylinders.....

After you have assessed the engine for damage, then you can decide on what to do next....

 

Thanks pt3. Yep, aware that it's a fully functioning replacement and easier to access. I was saying 808's catch can DIY seemed to last him a little bit before replacing the aos entirely with your system. I did just get a confirm on a local shop to do my aos for $500 cash, so may just go that route. I have big trust issues though, even though it's a reputable shop and was recommended to me.

I have some time this weekend, just doing some soul-searching on why I'm being such a p*ssy about doing it myself lol. Prob because I've already spent a good chunk of money between plugs, coils and a new maf (all of that unnecessary) and my hands are cut up / my neck hurts (ah, to be 29...). I do have a new vaico aos on-hand from FCP euro. If I do it myself it'll be fixed this weekend and I know it'll be done right (truly right would be with uaos, but I need my car). Maybe uaos next time around. Shipping is really tough to CA and takes forever unless you spend ~$30.

Think my plan for today/this weekend is:
Pull TB plenum off to inspect manifolds for oil. Clean out best I can with paper towels. Then pull all 6 spark plugs and inspect for oil. If coated, will pull them and crank (using starter) with rags sort of "stuffed" into the tubes to catch spewing oil. If not coated in oil, I'll just reinstall the plugs and take a breath. I also want to get my iphone camera up over bank 1 intake manifold and take a video for possible pooled oil.
If less oil than suspected, I may just go ahead and give the AOS a shot. Have to pickup a piece of wood from home depot to support motor/sump with jack but I think I have everything else. Those two snap clamps are going to be an absolute b*tch with the accordian hose so may stick with the worm clamps like it is now, but we'll see... I think I can pre-install hose with top clamp and just worm clamp the bottom with ease.

^ what do u think of that?

Cheers - will keep thread posted. Using it as my journal at this point... obviously fingers crossed the engine is fine and I haven't bent anything... I only started it 3 times and it only ran for ~5 seconds each because I had to move it (hand rolling impossible where I was at). The last two times you'd think I had a bonfire going. Car never died itself and each time I was the one that turned it off. It has sat overnight though so will not start it again until I've pulled plugs and installed new aos.

 

Cylinder #4 and #6 are the ones to most likely get the most oil, and possible damage ...

I would turn the engine by hand to make sure no cylinder now has so much oil it is hydrolocked. Then take an inspection camera and run through the throttle body over to the intake on each side to see if oil is pooled in the low spots...If the engine turns by hand and no oil is pooled, it is safe to start the engine. IF the engine won't turn by hand or if oil is pooled in the intake, it must be removed or it can cause damage ( if it hasn't already) ...If there is just oil wetness or just a couple onces of pooled oil it's ok, there is always oil residue in the intake from the breather system oil vapor..It will never be completely dry..

I would never install a factory style AOS for any reason, only the UAOS System makes any since.....If I had to drive to car temporality I would disconnect the breather pipe and plug the intake like mentioned above, then wrap 2-3 shop rags around the end of the breather pipe as a filter then place a zip-lock bag over the whole end and cut 2-3 1/4" holes in the top of the zip-lock bag to let the filtered blow-by gasses/ oil vapor out...I would drive modestly like this until it could be done right with the UAOS..I had to do this on my car when the Factory AOS failed at Talladega and I had to drive home, and I drove it for a while with this temporary cheap set-up as I designed the robust UAOS System ..

On the 996.1 manual cars the UAOS System can be installed in about 1.5 hours . No need to remove the intake ect. Can be done as you already know mostly from the bottom just lowering the engine down on the cross member , and a little work near the throttle body. If installing the Track Version, you need to remove the alternator and oil fill pipe, but not necessary on the Street only version..

 

Got under the car and the accordion hose was off at the top... Ripped again too. I didn't use the snap clamps, I used worm-style hose clamps that were tightened with an 8mm. Maybe the clamps ripped it? They do have sharp edges and I could see how it would dig into the hose.

But pt3 you're telling me the suction from the bad AOS ripped the hose.... it was a brand new hose this time around. Just crazy it creates that much vacuum to actually suck the hose out of its place. I swear it was on there good. Maybe those snap clamps are on there for a reason..... lol