Opinions on downshifting
#16
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No need to heel and toe for normal street driving. But as a driver of a stick shift car, you should learn to 'double de-clutch' downshift. Google this technique. I was taught this as a boy, when driving a Fiat 850 spider, and later when driving old Mercedes Diesel farm trucks. Neither had Synchromesh. Simply rev matching won't do it, as when the clutch is depressed, you're simply reving the engine. You need to rev in neutral, with the clutch released, then depress the clutch and downshift. At least, that's how I was taught. Simple understanding of how a manual transaxle clutch and engine / crankshaft revolutions interact should make it clear why this is required.
Heat is the destroyer of clutches, so avoid slippage. When you accelerate from a stop, get in the habit of fully releasing the clutch as soon as the car has any forward momentum at all. Don't ride the clutch, don't sit in gear with the clutch in at lights. And for God's sake, don't do YouTube launches, these cars are not designed for the drag strip. Unless you can afford repairs and parts, then by all means, give 'er bullets. Hope this helps! Also, don't lug these engines. Experts advise that at low revs, a harmonic is introduced that causes additional timing chain wear. The same harmonic is introduced over 5600rpm or so. But how hard you press on is entirely up to you. Enjoy your porsche!
Heat is the destroyer of clutches, so avoid slippage. When you accelerate from a stop, get in the habit of fully releasing the clutch as soon as the car has any forward momentum at all. Don't ride the clutch, don't sit in gear with the clutch in at lights. And for God's sake, don't do YouTube launches, these cars are not designed for the drag strip. Unless you can afford repairs and parts, then by all means, give 'er bullets. Hope this helps! Also, don't lug these engines. Experts advise that at low revs, a harmonic is introduced that causes additional timing chain wear. The same harmonic is introduced over 5600rpm or so. But how hard you press on is entirely up to you. Enjoy your porsche!
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#18
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I was taught to not hold the clutch pedal in for more than 5 to 10 seconds at a time. I just through it in neutral. I finally replaced the clutch (only because I dropped the engine and the while you are in there theme) at 143K miles. That was the original clutch, so I guess I am doing alright.
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#19
Burning Brakes
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No need to heel and toe for normal street driving. But as a driver of a stick shift car, you should learn to 'double de-clutch' downshift. Google this technique. I was taught this as a boy, when driving a Fiat 850 spider, and later when driving old Mercedes Diesel farm trucks. Neither had Synchromesh. Simply rev matching won't do it, as when the clutch is depressed, you're simply reving the engine. You need to rev in neutral, with the clutch released, then depress the clutch and downshift. At least, that's how I was taught. Simple understanding of how a manual transaxle clutch and engine / crankshaft revolutions interact should make it clear why this is required.
Heat is the destroyer of clutches, so avoid slippage. When you accelerate from a stop, get in the habit of fully releasing the clutch as soon as the car has any forward momentum at all. Don't ride the clutch, don't sit in gear with the clutch in at lights. And for God's sake, don't do YouTube launches, these cars are not designed for the drag strip. Unless you can afford repairs and parts, then by all means, give 'er bullets. Hope this helps! Also, don't lug these engines. Experts advise that at low revs, a harmonic is introduced that causes additional timing chain wear. The same harmonic is introduced over 5600rpm or so. But how hard you press on is entirely up to you. Enjoy your porsche!
Heat is the destroyer of clutches, so avoid slippage. When you accelerate from a stop, get in the habit of fully releasing the clutch as soon as the car has any forward momentum at all. Don't ride the clutch, don't sit in gear with the clutch in at lights. And for God's sake, don't do YouTube launches, these cars are not designed for the drag strip. Unless you can afford repairs and parts, then by all means, give 'er bullets. Hope this helps! Also, don't lug these engines. Experts advise that at low revs, a harmonic is introduced that causes additional timing chain wear. The same harmonic is introduced over 5600rpm or so. But how hard you press on is entirely up to you. Enjoy your porsche!
Heel and toe may not be necessary for “normal street driving” but it’s beneficial and the more you do it, the more intuitive it becomes. I’ve done it for the last 35 years whenever I drive a manual car. Have also passengered with mates that can’t/won’t/don’t do it, and it’s painful to witness ...
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#21
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Part of the joy of a manual box is rowing through the gears . Whether upshifting or downshifting blipping the throttle is a concert of motion . I even give a quick throttle blip on upshifts . You can argue if it's needed but there is no denying its fun . Hard to put a price on fun .
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#22
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Part of the joy of a manual box is rowing through the gears . Whether upshifting or downshifting blipping the throttle is a concert of motion . I even give a quick throttle blip on upshifts . You can argue if it's needed but there is no denying its fun . Hard to put a price on fun .
I always think of my passengers when I drive stick. If their heads are bobbing when I’m driving, that’s not smooth.
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#23
Race Car
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I double clutch into first, old habit from a 4 speed 60's Camaro I had in high school.
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#24
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I got into the habit of double clutching on downshifts back when the cars I drove all had non-synchro 1st gear and a worn out 2nd gear synchro. I still do it out of habit. Heel/toe only if I'm trying to be speedy.
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#25
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You downshift in anticipation of accelerating so you’re in the optimum rev range, if you know you’re stopping, no need to downshift. And yes, brakes, are cheaper.
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Frankie V. (10-01-2023)
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#27
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Sometimes I'll downshift if coming up fast to a light or stop sign, and sometimes i won't. all depends on what I feel is right at the time. Even if I do downshift when coming to a stop, unless I'm taking off again quickly/immediately, I never shift into 1st gear till fully stopped. I learned to drive when double clutching was needed. Now, on todays modern fully syncro'd trannys, not needed at all.
On the track, as others have said, most diffidently downshift to be in the right gear coming out of the corner. But on the track at the limit of adhesion, a not well executed downshift at the wrong time/rpm could cause a traction loss when you need as much adhesion as possible.... For older bike racers, they know what I mean. But now the new bikes all have slipper clutches to prevent downshift/engine braking traction loss in corners. God damn new vehicles drive themself and take a lot of skill out of the race equation imo...
jmo
On the track, as others have said, most diffidently downshift to be in the right gear coming out of the corner. But on the track at the limit of adhesion, a not well executed downshift at the wrong time/rpm could cause a traction loss when you need as much adhesion as possible.... For older bike racers, they know what I mean. But now the new bikes all have slipper clutches to prevent downshift/engine braking traction loss in corners. God damn new vehicles drive themself and take a lot of skill out of the race equation imo...
jmo
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#28
Race Car
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I guess I am surprised at all the wrong answers in this thread.
This is right:
Everyone else is wrong. And you guys talking about double clutching and blipping... On UPSHIFTS... what the actual F.
A lot of you act like heal / toe is some magic, or laborious process... wild.
This is right:
A lot of you act like heal / toe is some magic, or laborious process... wild.
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#30
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I will "double clutch", i.e. shift into neutral, let the clutch out, then push it back in and shift into the next gear -- on upshifts, when the car is cold. It helps balky gears in cold gear oil engage more smoothly. I also do it at a dead stop when reverse won't engage. No throttle blips on upshifts though.
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