IMHO, the 996 C4S is the most sexy of Carrera models with its Turbo wide body, Turbo front bumper skin, and iconic rear center reflector. These are pretty special cars.

As far as tests, it's always wise to have a pre-purchase inspection from a Porsche shop that can run the following inspections:
Engine:
1. Bore Scope inspection to rule out scoring. Listen for a ticking sound on the passenger side under the rear wheel well.
2. Manometer to rule out vacuum leaks, especially a failing AOS
3. Check coolant expansion tank for pressure and inspect coolant to rule any possible intermix
4. Drop the oil sump to inspect for metal debris or at least cut and examine the oil filter
5. With diagnostic scanner, check the following:
a. Overevs - (avoid cars with excessive stage 2 overrevs)
b. Readiness status - check to make sure the car's CEL hasn't been erased and it's "ready" for an emissions check
c. Rough running index - to check the health of the cylinders and firing
d. Camshaft deviations - to check timing and wear on the chain guides. No more than 6 degrees of deviation
e. Fuel Trim
6. Examine serpentine belt for wear.
7. Listen for any usual squealing noises that could point to tensioners going bad or a component.
8. Look for fluid drips. Oil around any component. Coolant around the water pump.
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels:
1. Check all suspension components for looseness
2. Examine boot for ruptures on t-rods
3. Check all bushings
4. See if anything has been swapped for aftermarket.
5. Examine wear on the rotors and brake pads. Is there a sensor pad DTC on the gauges?
6. Spin and shake the tires for noise related to wheel bearings
7. While driving turn the steering at low speed to see if strut bearing need replacement
8. Drive slowly over speed bumps and listen for squeaks or other noises
9. During test drive closely examine the alignment and if there is any vibration and shake in the steering
10 During test drive get the car up to higher speed on the freeway to see if it holds steady or feels loose.
11. During test drive, all check braking for pull in the steering and/or soft braking under heavy stops.
Interior:
1. Let your inner child come out and check all the obvious (mirror lights work, shades holds, etc.)
2. Check the windows for grinding noises which is usually a faulty window regulator
3. If it's cabriolet, check the function of the top several times to make sure windows drop, and the top opens and closes without pause
4. Slightly pull on the door handle to confirm window drop works correctly.
5. Test all buttons for functionality.
6. Check radio. The first run of the MOST (PCM2 or CDR-24) were very problematic and prone to failure.
7. Check AC control. Turn on heat full blast. These AC systems were known to have blend door problems. If you don't have heat, then it may be a blend door issue.
8. Check gauges and make sure no DTC or CEL come on during test drive.
9. Check key fobs for function and walk a distance to test range. The fobs are known to fail at this age. Replacement is about $400 - $500 each.
10. Check all functions of the seats, especially is electronic positioning with heat.
11. Test the sunroof for functionality. Test one button open and close.
12. Closely examine all leather surfaces for cracks, shrinkage, etc.
13. Examine headliner. Is it drooping?
Frunk/Rear deck lid:
1. Check and make sure you have a tool kit. The C4S doesn't come with a spare, but if you have wheel key lugs, you need to make sure the key socket is available.
2. Check frunk and deck lid interior lights
3. Examine the under the frunk bonnet for option sticker. If missing, it come mean an accident where the hood was replaced.
4. Pop the frunk/rear deck lid with FOB and button on the door seal for functionality of opening. They're electronically actuated.
Lighting:
1. Check the obvious. Find a dark area and test all interior and exterior lighting.
2. The light switches are another failure point, while testing make sure the lights don't flicker.
3. With someone to help, test all brake and turn signal lighting.
4. Check the xenon HID balancing
5. Examine front headlight enclosures for oxidation
6. Examine the rear light enclosures for cracks.
Security System:
1. Close all doors and click lock on the remote to arm the car. The car should double blink the amber lights. A slight honk could point to an open circuit or sensor failure.
2. Test alarm horn by arming the car and then open the driver's door with the key blade.

I'm sure there are more things, but this hopefully will help you get started.

All the best!

 

this is on point, i went to my local indy and he had a Turbo car that looked like it would be good to improve upon it wasn't pristine but it was a Turbo..i asked him if it was for sale and he said his customer was selling it... but advised against it as he said that particular customer would not do any preventative maintenance and would not spend any money on the car.. he shook his head emphatically it was a no no..i took my car after i bought it to the same indy and he was very positive about my car and didnt try to upsell me on anything..let me look underneath that's when i discovered i had a factory replacement engine.. so a good indy is worth their weight in knowledge

 

I deleted most of the above quoted list in the interest of space. This is one of the best inspection checklists I have seen. I've saved it for the next time I'm looking at a 911, or the next time somebody asks what to check. Thanks.

 

I thought the C4S spare wheel was under the frunk floor panel? Was this not the case for all years?

 

Like the 996 Turbo, the AWD 996 C4S has the “hump in the frunk” because the front drive assembly and fuel tank. I believe it comes with a tire repair kit?🤷‍♂️ Not totally sure on that.

 

thank you. Please forgive the errors in my writing… I was at work doing a millions things at once and didn’t have time to check.
Hope it helps someone.

 

This is how I remeber seeing it...a collapasable spare & compressor kit under the frunk foor panel. I can't be certain this applies to all years, but it was a 996.2 C4S where I saw it.

 

As far as I know all C4/C4S/Turbo/GT2/GT3 have the collapsable spare.
The GT2/GT3/PCCB Turbo collapsable spare is different, the C4S/Iron Turbo spare won't fit over 350mm rotors.

 

What I have in my 2003 C4s....

 

FYI. I bought an '05 997.1 coupe several years ago and the Porsche dealer did a full 40K service and inspection of the car before my purchase ( that was part of the deal)....They did not do a deep PPI on the car and I had to have the engine rebuilt. Do the right thing and get a top of the line PPI done! Pays off in the long range. As a foot note, My car is fantastic and love it! Good luck!

 

No spare on the GT cars. Just a can of fix-a-flat and a compressor.

OP if you are looking to spend $55k and want AWD/widebody, just reach a bit and buy a Turbo. No point in dealing with the M96.0 time bomb, just get the good motor and be done with it.

 

You're right I misread the parts catalog.
There are two different collapsible spares for the 6TT though, one for 330mm and a different one for 350mm rotors.

 

I don't disagree, but this car would be garage kept/third car situation. I honestly am struggling find a decent low mileage 996 C4S below the 55k threshold, and the low mileage turbos I've seen are pushing 70k! Not sure where else to look but open to suggestions!

 

Thank you so much, this is amazing! Unfortunately when I emailed them to inquire the car had just been sold! But I will update this thread once I find something else that I'd like to buy.

 

Since its a 3rd car, go with a C2 or a C4. You will save $15-20k and use those savings to refresh the car. Nice set of wheels and rubber and a set of spacers will make the car look very meaty. Add in a LSD and you will have all the traction you need.