dougn

Ohlins. Maybe there are others that give good low speed damping without being harsh on high speed movement....IDK. That's how they get away with high spring rates.....which reduce your roll without bigger sway bars

I would also say you should replace all four lower control arms, also maybe the angled control arms and you'll need adjustable rear toe arms and the kit that eliminates the Mickey Mouse stock rear toe eccentrics

Emefef

My 2003 C4 is at about 88,000 miles (141k km). I've replaced a couple of components where I thought there was noticeable wear, but the biggest difference was in replacing the struts - mine is just a fun daily driver, so while the decision wasn't entirely budget related, I was looking for a refresh not an overhaul or significant upgrade.
I replaced the struts with Bilstein B6. While price comparison U.S. to Canada is rarely relevant, these are available through RockAuto and no other supplier I found came close to the price, including delivery and a generous heap of tax to the Canadian government.
It's a little more challenging (well, more effort) to do the fronts on the C4, but we still did it ourselves with no issues.

Bash Hat

I have a constant squeak coming from the driver side rear shock tower. It drives me nuts. Following this thread to see what folks recommend (C4S). Was hoping not to do a total refresh but......

De Jeeper

The obvious first thing would be to remove the strut and inspect the parts. It may just need a top mount.

Marv

Is everything tight?

Bash Hat

Found the source of the squeaking. This brace from the cross member was slightly loose. Still need new suspension as it's a 2002 with 88k miles. Buddy just did a Bilstein B8 setup and likes it. It's gonna be either that or I may spring for the Ohlins. Not decided yet.

thurstonpowers3

How would you compare the stock 996 GT3 coilovers to the Ohlins? I have GT3 coilovers on my C2 and am worried if I change to the Ohlins they may be too soft. The car is tracked regularly.

dporto

I’m wondering how the front fitment of the GT3 struts works out on a C2, as the front suspension geometry is totally different due to the front axles on the GT3...?

plpete84

Front axles on a GT3? They are RWD, not AWD. That said, I'm pretty sure the suspension components are different to a regular C2 but there are no axles in the front.

plpete84

I have not felt the 996 GT3 coilovers but can't imagine them being more comfortable than the Ohlins. With Ohlins, you at least have the ability to set the damper stiffness to your liking and it's a much newer technology. I'm not sure if the stock GT3 coils had damper adjustment - I could be wrong.

Jengah

+1 for Ohlins. Yes, the ride can be a bit more firm, but it's well worth it. You also need to adjust the clicks to find your comfort level. I first tried them let all the way out but found myself bouncing over everything, I then took them down to 12 clicks from closed and it's surprisingly smooth on the freeway and most roads, yes a freeway bridge crack can be jarring as with a pothole, but never hammering. If you autoX or track yrou car at all then I'd highly recommend them. It takes 1 minute to scoot around to all four corners and adjust the firmness. I just went to Buttonwillow and had fun going from 7 clicks out down to 5 clicks. I had two instructors tell me how well balanced the car was (note: I also have GT3 swaybars). Then at the end of the day, I just clicked back out to 12 clicks and enjoyed my buttery smooth ride home.

C2-996

I’m a fan of my PSS10’s on my car (all street car) Also can say I’ve heard nothing but great things on the Ohlins. Either are a worthwhile upgrade from the factory components in my opinion. I do want to source some hollow GT3 sway bars— I see tarrett makes an exact match of the oem GT3 bars (hollow center) Jengah- any impressions you can share before and after adding the GT3 sways?

dporto

My bad - was thinking of Turbo...

De Jeeper

both the front and rear gt3 parts work on a c2. I have done it. The gt3 requires extra parts like sway bar brackets, adjustable links, top mounts and spring cups. The thing is there is no reason to go with gt3 set up because u can have the c2 shocks valved and spinged for the gt3 settings. Get a set of tarett top plates and bingo...instant race car.

I bought my gt3 set uo because ohlin had no c2 avalibility and i want more of a race car feel anyways. I dont find the steet manners harsh either.

GC996

I would take a look at Bilstein PSS10s as well. I know the rage right now is with Ohlins, just like the rage was with Bilsteins 10 years ago versus the other options. The point is that there are so many great coilover systems today, that you aren't stuck with just one. Problem is that there are ZERO comparisons between any of them, anywhere. Including YouTube for a simple reason, who is going to buy two sets of coilovers to compare? Same thing for complete exhaust systems and a dyno. Just too expensive. So what you get are a bunch of people, me included who will give you feedback on their set-up, but none of us have quantitative data comparing different coilovers on the street and track actually tell which is faster, more comfortable, easier to set-up and use etc.

Both PSS10s and Ohlin RT are adjustable by you or your shop to get the ride you want. If you are part of the small number of RLs who do track days, either will be incredible upgrades to Oem and will be more than what you would need unless you are a really serious DE guy or club racer. Then your looking at JRZs which will run you 10-12k for the coilovers and many thousands more for the complete set-up. But this is overkill for the majority of RLs.

I have been running a set of PSS9s since 2007 (10s weren't produced at that time) with tarret sway bars and suspension set-up to GT3 specs. I run it cranked up to the stiffest setting on 200 or 100 tires including hoosiers. Early on I would adjust it up for the track and then down for the street and decided to just keep it at the track setting because it was just a pain in the ***. I just have to make sure that I have a lid on my coffee when driving around.

For me, the Bilsteins have proven to be durable as he'll and still going strong after 14 years. I may replace the coil springs for next season with swift springs and then eventually settle on a set of JRZs in a year or two as I sort thru replacing parts for the next 20 years of ownership.

Here is the point: lots a very good solutions out there. I swear by Bilsteins, others swear by Ohlins, Feals, KWs, etc. It comes down to if you want to lower the car, drive it just on the street, track-it occasionally, seriously track it to get faster in DE, etc.

Will you get an improvement in ride comfort on the street moving from Oem to adjustable coilovers at their softest settings. Of course. How do I know, I tried it and compared the feel with my but gauge.

Will you get faster times on the track moving from OEM to adjustable coilover at stiffer settings. Of course, there is no comparison because I tried it as well.

Comes down to what you are looking for.