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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 10:53 AM
  #16  
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[QUOTE=jim010;17172815]OK, so you can take a wire and attach it to pin 85 on the relay to the fan. The other end of the wire, all you need to do is to touch it to a metal part of the dash to ground it. This will turn the fan on. You can check the high speed and low speed of both fans this way to check that they are working. The relays are 19, 20, 21 and 22.

I see that DBJoe996 posted a diagram of the relay box. Its really easy to access the relays and identify them when you are down there. They are above the fusebox. on the driver's side.[/
Thanks again Jim.
I will try and do this sometime today and let you know what I find out.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 10:58 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Knobby
I see often the outside temp as over 95, and the needle will go past the (0) on the temp Gauge and still the fans do not kick in.
Right...same here. Just make sure the radiator fans work on low speed and high speed, then let the DME/ECU handle the rest. Check your coolant level and monitor the temp gauge. Sometimes when the ambient temp is over 95 and I'm running (not idle), all fans will come on including the engine compartment fan. Car sounds like a hovercraft when pulling into the garage!
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 11:01 AM
  #18  
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The temp gauge is notoriously inaccurate so no need to worry too much about the numbers as long as the light isn't coming on and your levels are ok.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 12:31 PM
  #19  
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The low speed fans dont even come on to about 212*f. My car wont even get that hot unless im in traffic with an outside temp over 85*. Most base ob2 readers can pull the temp off the dme. Any higher end snap-on or altel shop scanner can activate the fans in high and low. If it is a big concern pay and hour of diagnostic to your local indy. The low speed resistor is cheap off amazon and easy to splice in if needed. There r a ton of threads on the repair if u google it.


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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 12:34 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Knobby
I'm afraid I have not as I don't have a Durametric
So where is your needle pointing when they do come on?
As I have already mentioned in this thread, they come on when the needle points to the final white line on the gauge.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 12:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
...Car sounds like a hovercraft when pulling into the garage!
Yeah, and if ones happens to be on a dusty dirt road, it will spray dust all over one’s clean car.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 12:54 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Knobby
Thanks for your advice.
I think it is overheating because the needle will move to the right of center (180) especially when I am in traffic at idle. I have pulled into a parking lot when this is happening and there are no fans running. They do run when I switch on the AC.
I'm sorry for my ignorance but I don't know the HVAC Hack . Is there somewhere I can look that up?
Thanks again.
If you have an MKI 996, which it looks like you do from your avatar, you can use the HVAC system to display your current coolant temp. It will give you a much more accurate reading than the dash gauge.

Here's the procedure: Hold down the recirculating button and the air up button (arrow pointing up) for 5 seconds. Then scroll through the menu choices with the up/down arrows. Coolant temp is item 6c. I think you then press the center vent button to select your choice. The display will then show your current coolant temp until you press the "Auto" button to exit this display. You can keep the HVAC display on the coolant temp while you drive to monitor your current coolant temp.

Here's a link with more info: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-you-know.html See post #6.

If your fans run on low speed when you turn on the AC then your resistors are good and I bet your fans are operating on both high and low speeds properly. I would not put too much faith in the dash temp gauge as its pretty inaccurate IMHO.

Another thing you can check, if you think you are running hot, is the radiators for dirt and debris. If your radiators have never been cleaned, a lot of dirt can get stuck between the radiators and the AC condensers which requires removal of the front bumper cover to access and clean. You can take a quick peek at your radiators though to make sure there isn't anything obstructing them. I cleaned the radiators on my 996 at about 55,000 miles and while there was some debris between the radiators and condensers, I didn't really notice any improvement in my operating temps after the cleaning.

Also, depending on your mileage, a new water pump may help your car run a bit cooler.

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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 01:01 PM
  #23  
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You might also unplug and replug the coolant temp sensor on the engine. Sometimes corrosion can build up on the contacts and give higher readings than actual. The Mk1 uses a dual element temperature sensor, one for the DME and one for the gauge - so the DME could be reading accurately and the gauge wrong.
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 11:45 AM
  #24  
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Thank you to all who have been trying to help me sort out this problem.
I am sorry that I have been unable to get back to this subject earlier as I had a few things going on at home and I also managed to break my little toe. Apparently trying to arrange furniture with your foot as you walk by is not recommended.
As you can imagine I have not been driving the car to much to carry on with a diagnosis.
In the last year I have replaced the Water pump and the Thermostat to a 160 from LSN {?) solutions.
I guess what was freaking me out was the fact that the needle was going past half way. On all of the cars I have now or in the past the needle doesn't go past the halfway point unless there is a problem.
I will be using the HVAC hack to get a better reading as it seems to be a common thought that the Gauge in the car is somewhat in accurate.
Thank you all again for the great insight.
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Old Feb 17, 2021 | 04:40 PM
  #25  
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Ouch, broken pinky toe hurts like hell!
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