Excessive Rear tire wear?
#31
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks.
I am not replacing the rear Rossos. As sticky as those tires were, this car is not driven anywhere near where we need those extreme performance levels. Instead I am going with a suggestion by Scott and getting Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 all around. When they do the alignment, I'll talk to them about adding toe. As for pressure, yes, I'll drop it a bit and just keep an eye on it. The car alternates between 1 passenger and 4 passengers.. On trips it is 4 people with cargo.
I am not replacing the rear Rossos. As sticky as those tires were, this car is not driven anywhere near where we need those extreme performance levels. Instead I am going with a suggestion by Scott and getting Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 all around. When they do the alignment, I'll talk to them about adding toe. As for pressure, yes, I'll drop it a bit and just keep an eye on it. The car alternates between 1 passenger and 4 passengers.. On trips it is 4 people with cargo.
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/998x1926/e863ae51_812d_45dd_8971_9d235f4ca2ab_fb3b3ee7515f81ce04beb9bf15ba659439de990e.jpeg)
1999 C2 Cab alignment settings. I have 16,000 miles on the tires and the wear is even throughout all 4 tires, lots of life left, probably 1/2-way. Includes 2 days of tracking for about 300 total miles of tracking. The rest city and highway. This alignment setup is not the best for handling, but very good on tire wear, yet my car handles great to me.
#32
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
someone will have to explain to me how going zero toe or as close to it as possible would lead to MORE tire wear. Zero toe is a tire that is dead straight. Any toe in or out would result in some scrub, which is actually what wears tires, not camber.
For safety purposes, a little bit of toe in is needed in the rear, but the front you can run close to zero. The more positive toe (toe out) in the front, the more tramlining you'll get, but it will be ultra responsive. Toe out in the rear results in a very unpleasant experience with the rear stepping out all the time.
Find the correct specs for your car, and ask them for a little bit of toe in and minimal negative camber.
For safety purposes, a little bit of toe in is needed in the rear, but the front you can run close to zero. The more positive toe (toe out) in the front, the more tramlining you'll get, but it will be ultra responsive. Toe out in the rear results in a very unpleasant experience with the rear stepping out all the time.
Find the correct specs for your car, and ask them for a little bit of toe in and minimal negative camber.
#33
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 5,932
Likes: 0
Received 1,185 Likes
on
758 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think basically it amounts to static and dynamic forces. When the car is static (not moving) the settings are for a car at rest. When the car is moving, dynamic forces apply...down force increases, the tires heat up, the whole suspension setup changes. You want some toe when it is set static, so when the car is moving and the dynamic forces take over, the car and suspension will move to a more neutral setting. Too little static toe in will result in too much toe out at speed. Make sense?
#34
Rennlist Member
#35
Rennlist Member
#36
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
New tires all around installed today. I put on the Continental Extreme Contact. Backs went from 285 down to 265. Alignment done. Showed the guy the alignment sheet and he did it to those specs. I'll report back in a year or 15 000km, whichever comes first. I hope these wear better.