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If you have a basement with a furnace room, set up shop in there. Just get a foldable table, a chair and a light. Put the shorblock together in there and then bring all up to the garage to finish. Get a dolly made to move water heaters up and down stairs and that will be good enough, with two people, to bring the shortblock upstairs. That's what I did, it was the best decision I've made when it comes to putting and engine back together in comfort. To keep the smell down, I've used vegetable oil to lube things up while the engine was in the house.
If you have a basement with a furnace room, set up shop in there. Just get a foldable table, a chair and a light. Put the shorblock together in there and then bring all up to the garage to finish. Get a dolly made to move water heaters up and down stairs and that will be good enough, with two people, to bring the shortblock upstairs. That's what I did, it was the best decision I've made when it comes to putting and engine back together in comfort. To keep the smell down, I've used vegetable oil to lube things up while the engine was in the house.
My basement is finished and heated, but I actually think the pool table is the better option. I have a dining table conversion top for it and space around it for my engine stand. Would make for a nice work space.
Hadn't considered the smell. Already picked up some Driven HVL and assembly grease. I'll need to give it a whiff when I get home.
I was in your neck of the woods during my August road trip. Grabbed dinner in Kitchener at Moxie's with my old college goalie/roommate.
The crank carrier was already assembled with proper lube before I brought it into the basement and was sitting like that for 3 years so the that didn't smell much. The only thing I've used the vegetable oil was to slide the pistons into the bores. Once the longblock was back in the garage, I used engine oil to re lube the bores before the heads went on.
The crank carrier was already assembled with proper lube before I brought it into the basement and was sitting like that for 3 years so the that didn't smell much. The only thing I've used the vegetable oil was to slide the pistons into the bores. Once the longblock was back in the garage, I used engine oil to re lube the bores before the heads went on.
That's an interesting point. I was watching the Raby video where he used a "special lube" for rings and pistons. I'm curious what he uses. I'll bet it's another closely guarded secret.
That's an interesting point. I was watching the Raby video where he used a "special lube" for rings and pistons. I'm curious what he uses. I'll bet it's another closely guarded secret.
Hey, it might not be the right way....but it is my way! And she never complained that the house smelled like an oil spill.
Anyway back to the teardown... Had a little trouble getting the front console off and unfortunately broke it. Jake warns about this piece being fragile in the assembly videos. I was able to find the part new (with the upgraded oil pressure relief valve) for about $340.
Anyway back to the teardown... Had a little trouble getting the front console off and unfortunately broke it. Jake warns about this piece being fragile in the assembly videos. I was able to find the part new (with the upgraded oil pressure relief valve) for about $340.
Yep.
as you reassemble using my method in the video, note that everything I focus on is done to avoid complications that will
lead to this breakage.
Also, guys....
Never compromise assembly procedures because of something like a smell. Vegetable oil has no properties that will carry load during initial engine start up.
If it smells, get over it- if you make a compromise you’ll pay for it. Suck it up, buttercup.. This is engine building, you have one chance to get it right, or you get to do it again.
Yep.
as you reassemble using my method in the video, note that everything I focus on is done to avoid complications that will
lead to this breakage.
Also, guys....
Never compromise assembly procedures because of something like a smell. Vegetable oil has no properties that will carry load during initial engine start up.
If it smells, get over it- if you make a compromise you’ll pay for it. Suck it up, buttercup.. This is engine building, you have one chance to get it right, or you get to do it again.
So Jake, can you share a clue as to what's in your piston/ ring lube? I don't care about the smell.
Yes, but check the website alot has changed since I broke in a rebuilt engine.
I visit there frequently. I have not found anything specific to engine assembly oil. They list a high viscosity lube and an assembly grease. The special lube that I saw in the video did not look to be of high viscosity, and it certainly was not grease.
Also, guys....
Never compromise assembly procedures because of something like a smell. Vegetable oil has no properties that will carry load during initial engine start up.
If it smells, get over it- if you make a compromise you’ll pay for it. Suck it up, buttercup.. This is engine building, you have one chance to get it right, or you get to do it again.
Only used the it to slide the pistons into the bores. For the rest of the top end I used some 85W140 that I had left from a Jeep differential swap. It's extreme pressure gear oil so should be better than the Dollar Tree one
02-18-2020, 10:23 AM
