AMCPILOT

A few more photos of a different car ... hope this helps



Access point to the flap with heater core removed

You simply remove this lever arm by taking out the 8mm head screw and then remove the lower flap pivot pin.

The foam isn’t just a nuisance, it allows heat for the interior. If you have weak or no heat, it is likely all the foam is gone off this flap

Replacement foam installed on flap

Flap reinstalled

tom__w

This should be a sticky on multiple forums.

lowpue

Can you point out which screw?

jim010

Thanks for all that.

But everyone should be aware that it will give you heat back, but the blowing foam problem will likely persist from the second door.

TexSquirrel

Eventually it should all blow out.

details

Yes, missing foam.

When I got my car last year I had essentially no heat. I decided to go through the front console (remove radio, etc.) and fix both flaps. This thread is where I first found the method, but there are plenty others. I posted some pics on this thread. It was well worth the trouble!

R324U

How does one secure the top hinge after you dermal off the cap? Just put tape over it or does someone have a better suggestion?

az968gpw

What foam did you use? And wouldn't that foam eventually fail? I've read of people replacing the foam with aluminum tape for a permanent t fix.

Mark I

Looks like the one at about the 7 o'clock position is loose and once removed would allow the arm to rotate & let the pink key/slot to release. Some one who has actually done it can confirm.

pesuazo

Correct....that is the one...see attached....and here is my write-up of the work with tips...start at post #13: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...the-vents.html

tom__w

So I have a C4S side by side with a TT. The TT heats up nicely with 140+ coming out of the vents. When checking the hoses going to the exchanger, they are about 135 on the inlet and 115 on the outlet. I am measuring with a laser thermal temperature sensor.

The C4S has roughly the same temps on the hoses but I have about 110 coming out of the vents.

Is this conclusive that the problem is the blend door foam? Is there another way to confirm / diagnose this problem?

I tried covering the air inlet below the cabin filter but I didn't see an appreciable difference. In fact, when I covered it I got so little air through the vents that it was hard to tell.

I'm thinking I might attempt this repair tomorrow if I can get some feedback from the peanut gallery...

Scott Bell

Why not just use aluminum HVAC tape to cover the holes rather than more foam?

pdxmotorhead

There are closed cell foam products that will last fine, and do their original job which was to help quiet down the air flow noise..
You can also cover foam with AL tape.. I've even done double layers and used rivets to nail the AL tape in place..
(Different application but it would work here as well. )

TexSquirrel

Thanks for the post!
I finally took care of my blend door below the heater core.
I still need to install the battery & wipers.
It was not a bad job at all.
I think total time will be about 75 minutes.

Next I’m going to tackle the blend door behind the radio.
http://986forum.com/forums/performan...-debris-3.html

Dranon

Just did this on my turbo. The blend door had a foam strip on it. I saved it and glued it onto the new foam.

New foam with strip reglued on


Old foam still somewhart intact but crumbles when pressed. THe foam strip was attached I have not seen this anywhere else