A dry sump pan ,, would buy back a lot, it only has to allow the crank to turn..
Texas speed could probably turn a 6cyl cam to match their well developed LS cams..

I do think often that the 4.3 with a turbo should be A-mazing,, the 5.3 V8 will do north of 900HP stock.
So the 4.3 oughta be pretty solid at about 550.. and a 7500 rpm redline,, since that's what the stock motor has..
And I can buy most of the parts cheaper since there are dirt track sources for them..

The LS engines with minimal attention are quite capable of 8500 rpm.. Iffn ya have a reason..

 

Not being able to use the stock intake would be a deal breaker. An accurate measurement on the lv3 from the crank center line to the top of the intake would be helpful.

 

Let's try to keep this on track Plenty of other threads for swap questions to the LV3 or other setups. I'm more than happy to answer any questions pertaining to my swap though!

As of right now I'm going with a Canton front sump pan and GM pickup. I'll likely add an Accusump and a dedicated oil pressure idiot light and gauge to the dash before any track events. This Canton pan has trap doors and baffles which make it the ideal wet sump setup for our LS engines of this application IMO. In a reversed rear engine configuration, this becomes a rear sump. It also has a very shallow portion ahead of the sump that will allow plenty of space for my exhaust tubes to route underneath the pan but not hang below the sump. Win-win. It could also be converted to a dry sump setup later if needed. Not sure which oil filter block I'll be using. I do plan to have a remote filter and oil cooler.

Pan-
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...drift-pan.html

LS oil pan stud kit-
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...unting-gm-ls1/

As for power steering, I have been figuring out the power steering lines and fittings situation. I'd like to use a Mini Cooper electric pump and remove reservoir. Hopefully I'll find space to mount it in the engine compartment compared to the frunk. We'll see. I designed a couple of adapters for the fittings to reuse the P car line fittings and make it a bolt on adapter to 6AN and 8AN for simplicity.

Obtained a LS3 Corvette water pump and tensioner. 996 water temp sensor will be threaded into the LS3 extra port, M16x1.5. I'll need a male M16x1.5 to female M14x1.5 but it threads right in place. No need to tap the cylinder head on the LS1. The oil pressure sensor is the same deal, same threads, same adapter needed. I used the ICT Corvette low alternator mount with truck alternator and obtained an early Corvette AC pump instead of swapping clutch parts. That should complete the accessories. I'll be buttoning up the last of it and should be able to cut the body for clearance and slap the LS1 in place soon. I just need to plan out the 996 oil level and temp sensor. Coolant system will have custom 20AN adapters made for the 996 hard lines. I didn't want to cut the factory hard lines but I might have to, unfortunately. All lines will be AN type for simplicity, reliability, and ease of maintenance.

Tight fit, LS1 oil pressure sensor with P car sensor that will replace it. Not sure if I'll have enough space once the adapter comes in.



F body AC Compressor (only the clutch is different for Corvette) and the Corvette bracket that bolted right up the LS1. This is the smallest OEM LS AC package I could find.



Belt routed, just awaiting final bolt-together of the AC compressor, tidy up the injector mounts, and then we're ready to cut the 996 body to mount the LS1 and start plumbing.

 

Are you using Corvette or Camaro accessory spacing? You said a F-body AC but Crovette waterpump? Wouldn't the AC pulley sit outside the belt then?

For the oil level, can't you just replace that with a resistor? Or do you want actual level? Would a sandwich plate work work for oil temp?

Also wouldn't an LS6 intake be cheaper?

Awesome thread! Apologize for all the questions

 

It's all Corvette spacing. The F body clutch is different, it's what I have here now. My Corvette pump is on the way, a buddy should have it here by the weekend I think. It was in the picture for looks

I've heard of the resistor trick with the level sensor - does that work??? I need to research it more. I believe it's a 26 ohm resistor. Not sure about the sandwhich plate but it's all built into 1 sensor.

LS6 intakes are cheaper than FAST but also have smaller intake opening at 75mm. I wanted bigger with better flow at 92mm and got the intake and DBC throttle body for less than a new LS6 intake and matching DBC TB.

 

New AC compressor is on and looks like it will work. Still need a belt and to verify tensioner and bracket is correct.

Found out my C2 is actually metallic GREEN not black. Someone painted it at one point to black and did a poor job on the paint work. I like the 2B4 paint code color so I may go with that in the end when I respray.

I removed the F Body Camaro LS1 oil pan and installed a Canton LS1 front sump road race pan with baffles and trap doors. I'll likely add an oil cooler when I start the remote filter plumbing. So far this pan is looking great and I think it will be perfect.

AC compressor and pan to show how it all fits together:


LS1 with motor mounts, nearly ready to go in. Waiting on some conversion pieces for the 20AN water pump fittings, metric fitting adapters, and a few other small pieces. Stuttgart Muscle motor mounts added as well. Super easy to install these mounts and the instructions were top notch.


Motor mount base plate, F for front with arrow


Rough body cut made. Two more small cuts and then some edge clean up and it will be ready for it's new heart


F Body Pan vs Canton front sump pan




Trap doors and baffling


Still left to figure out:

• P car oil level/temp sensor
• Holley fuel injector rail mount plates are wrong
• AC belt and bracket/idler/tensioner
• Heater hose hookup plan
• Steering line caps (for now)
• P car O2 sensor hookups needed?
• Tachometer LS 24x to 58x pulse conversion
• Finalize 180 degree headers
• Convert pedals from AT to MT
• Mount clutch master cylinder and reservoir
• Plan and order clutch lines
• Find P car ignition on hot wire
• Find P car neutral safety switch and bypass or deactivate
• Lots more I haven't thought of

But the list is getting smaller!

 

Suggestion,, take a look at the AC pump off a Honda FIT, its really tucked in and is fairly small. Has similar mounting flange,, might save room?

 

Thank you for the suggestion but that's not really worth the trouble. This is already here, it's done, and it works well as a factory combination.

 

Good to know,, the item that most general LS swaps fight is the AC pump,, usually messes up either the Motor mount or headers..

 

Did it work with your AC?

So you are using an F body clutch and a LS1 AC compressor? Did the belt align properly?

 

Yes, factory Corvette compressor and clutch. It was not much more to buy a used compressor off eBay than to buy used clutch parts and try to do the swap. Belt aligns perfectly because it is an early Corvette compressor (1998 year) and early Corvette bracket, pulley, and tensioner (1997 year). I spent less on all the new AC items so far than a Dirty Dingo bracket kit. The adapter for the LS AC compressor fittings is $50 and uses generic AC couplers. I will just make new AC lines that adapt to the Porsche firewall connections. I actually used to design all of these connections for a very popular truck manufacturing company that's headquartered in the PNW.

 

Helps being an AC expert when you do an engine swap with AC

So why did you have to have an early compressor? Wouldn't a later AC work? Sounds like you got a stock AC at stock location using stock bracket?


Also the whole thing with the F-body AC, was that just because it came with that?

thanks!

 

I don't know about expert but some experience helps! Hah!

Early compressor is smallest of all LS factory systems. Yes, it's factory Corvette compressor, mount, idler, and tensioner. 100% bolt on.

Later AC would work if you have all the mounts and compressor but early LS1 block may need a hole drilled and tapped or some other modifications to use later LS compressors.

Yes, the LS1 I have is from an F Body and it came with the compressor and bracket but I'll be selling those along with a number of other components I won't be using.

 

So you got a camaro LS1? And you used the ICT bracket for alternator and early corvette stuff for AC? (Is the Camaro alternator same as corvette alternator? )

I assume you got a new damper?

It's stuff like this that makes future swaps easier!!!

 

Yes, early LS1. Needs LS6 PCV update which I have. Corvette spacing ICT alternator bracket, yup. Early LS1 AC compressor, idler, tensioner, and bracket - all ebay specials. Alternator is same between truck/camaro/corvette and only the bracket mounting depths change. I used a truck alternator.

Dampener is LS3 factory dampener, ACDelco 12560115
Water pump is Corvette LS3 ACDelco 251-728
WP Tensioner is ACDelco 12569301
Smaller oil pressure sensor is 12616646 Oil Pressure Sensor Switch D1846A
GM Performance Parts 12498544 Head Gaskets
ARP water pump bolts, head bolts, etc.
Canton front sump pan and studs
GM GTO oil pan pickup
LS3 injectors
Holley 534-210 LS Hi-Flow EFI Fuel Rail
Corvette fuel regulator
6AN everything for fuel
20AN everything for coolant
12AN everything for heater hoses
FAST 92mm intake
92mm DBC throttle body
LS6 PCV conversion
ported Melling high flow oil pump
Tick Performance SNS cam, 7.4" pushrods, double springs
243 heads, stock for now (will port later)
Terminator X engine management, wideband O2

I think that's the total LS1 build thus far...lots of parts were "nice to have" and not a necessity. Car intake is required. Corvette accessories required if you don't want to cut into the latch area. Still need to work out the throttle cable modification. Power steering will go away for now until I feel like installing an electric pump in the front trunk. Still a few parts to order for coolant tank conversion to run it back into the main coolant lines. I am about to chop the coolant hard lines and weld on the 20AN fittings. I'll be plumbing the fuel system and remaining coolant and heater hoses in the next two weeks. After that it's just fitting the LS1 in place, connecting hoses and running the power to the Terminator X and all the small things that go with that phase. Hoping to crank it over before the new year but depends on how quickly I can fab a temporary exhaust.