That sounds like a great plan!!!

My lock/unlock button never worked and the module actually doesnt like staying put in the key head for some reason. . I removed it and have gotten used to unlocking car from drivers door now.

Im actually waiting on one of the Lighted Key Heads from Sonnen Porsche to fit my existing key to. May order a second for a second key blank I have and just glue the pill behind the ignition trim as has been mentioned in a previous thread if I cant get the keyless entry to work easy enough.

 

I never knew this existed!!! Saw their head unites plenty of times but never looked around their site.

Easy install it seems too...

 

I bought the fob from Suncoast Porsche about a yr ago. My local dealer programmed the key. I don't remember there being a 10 digit code. Will I need that code to get it reprogrammed? Is it imprinted on the body of the fob? Would Sunset have a record of it? Would my local dealer who did the programming last time? Or am up Schitts Creek?!

 

The fob would have had a paper swingtag on it with the code. Once it's used that's it you can't get it back unless you have the swingtag. It's not printed on the shell.

Looks like this:

 

Yes, you'll need the original bar code that came with your transmitter (i.e. keyfob). It should have been in the little ziplock bag with the fob. I always take a picture of the bar code just in case I lose mine for some reason. If I'm not mistaken, these transmitters use "non-volatile memory"which means it's supposed to retain the programming even if the battery goes dead, but I don't trust anything that doesn't have redundancy and even then I have another form of backup. Of course, something else could have gone wrong with the electronics. Has it ever gotten wet? Did you closely examine all the internal connections? Anyway, IMHO Porsche will want to sell you an new keyfob and move the laser-cut portion over to the new fob. Most service centers I've dealt with won't try to repair malfunctioning transmitters aside from putting a new battery in them.

 

I don’t have the original tag. The dealer probably tossed it. Might he have kept a record of the number?

 

I think I remember that a Porsche dealer can obtained the original key code from Stuttgart (factory), provided that it is an original VIN, key and immobilizer. And they need to have your car. They won't give it to you though but they can use it to program more keys for your car. And, my memory can be foggy sometimes.

 

I'm constantly learning new stuff about my 996. So this means that getting 2 fobs for your used Porsche is great as long as they don't need to be resynced to the car--at that point they become mostly junk (other than the key part) because who ever gets this little piece of paper with the keys?

And by the way, the "I'll charge you to tell you how much I will charge you" is not specific to Porsche. Infiniti tried to pull the same thing on me. I just wanted to pay 1 hour for them to flash updates on my 2007 G-35, but they wouldn't do it. They said they'd charge me $125 for one hour to "diagnose and advise". Needless to say, but I'll say it anyway, I haven't been back to the dealer.

It becomes a perpetuating circle: the dealers try to money grab if we ever go to them for service so we avoid going to them for service, thus causing the dealers to money grab when we actually do show up.

 

I got in the habit of stapling the key tag to the RO whenever I programmed a new remote. The RO is put into the dealership files and kept for a min of 5 years. I can't say that this dealer/tech did this as there is no set handling instructions for the key tag. He may have stapled it to the RO, may have placed in your owners manual, may have tossed it..who knows..

 

Not for remotes. The key code for the laser-cut high security metal key is in IPAS, also the learning code to teach the immobilizer is in IPAS and can be accessed by lead dealer tech or service manager.

There is also a code for the transponder (pill), and a code for the remote. The code for the transponder (pill) can be read and written to the immobilizer with the Piwis tester. The code for the remote must come from the paper key tag.

 

So, in theory, you could go to the dealer, have a laser key cut and have an RFID pill programmed in the key, and that will work. You can unlock the door with the key and the ignition will work. The only thing they cannot do is program the remote to lock/unlock the car without the paper key tag. Learn something new everyday.

 

correct

 

Never thought about this on the Porsche 996. Are you saying that if you manually lock/unlock the car with the laser cut portion, the car will engage/disengage the security system as normal?

 

Yes. I bought a new key head. I swapped the key and RFID pill and it starts and locks/unlocks the car. To get the remote function to work I'd have to pay the dealer, which I don't plan on doing.

 

A VW dealer did that to me too. I had a CEL showing insufficient grounding to one of the cylinders on my VW New Beetle. I Googled it and found that it was a common fault and there was a VW service bulletin for the fix. I had just gotten the car (used) and didn't even think about attempting it, not being familiar with the car. I printed out the article and the service bulletin and brought them and the car to the dealer. They told me they had to charge me $125 to diagnose the problem. I argued that the diagnosis was already done and a fix identified. They didn't budge. The all-in cost was just under $1000. A year later the CEL came back. This time I decided to fix it myself. After removing the plastic cover on the engine, I saw what they did. They ran a ground wire from the coil pack to the underside of the battery, where it was attached to a metal bracket. The thin wire had corroded. The whole "fix" couldn't have taken them more than 5 minutes. Needless to say, they'll never get another dollar from me.