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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 12:08 AM
  #31  
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Looking at my bentley for a 2004 car i think it calls the crank position sensor an engine speed sensor.

a1 - white goes to pin 9, x59/2 connector, to c45 on the dme
a2 - brown goes to pin 10, x59/2 connector, to c46 on the dme
a3 - shield goes to pin 18, x59/2 connector, to c32 on the dme

i home this helps, i would start checking continuity.

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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 11:30 AM
  #32  
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awesome Thank you.

Steve
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 04:26 PM
  #33  
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You really want (all of) the sensor(s) to connect to ground at their factory locations, i.e. the appropriate terminal in the wiring plug inside the engine bay or the terminal at the DME in this case.
Not doing so can cause all sorts of erratic behaviour.

Edit: I appreciate you posting the causes for your problems and admire your dedication to the car!

Last edited by hardtailer; Feb 11, 2021 at 04:29 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2021 | 05:44 PM
  #34  
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De Jeeper
Excellent, after cross-referencing in the Bentley all morning... seems that although I have a 2001 911, the 2002 wire diagram is correct.????
You sir had it right, also tested and verified.
for someone in the future looking for this...

Crank Position Sensor (documented as Engine Speed Sensor) Bentley EWD114 A11---EWD113 A6 &A7
Black pin 1 - x59/2 pin 9 - DME 32
Brown pin 2- x59/2 pin 10- DME 46
White pin 3- x59/2 pin 18- DME 45

Now, how the hell do I replace the female side pin????
with my non-luck of clean splicing, this will prove to be a challenge.
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Old Feb 12, 2021 | 06:34 PM
  #35  
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Sorry i would have checked the 99 snd 02 diagrams if i knew it was an 01.

making the crimp for a pin is easy with the correct tool. Finding the correct pin and plug is the hard part. We share a lot with vw so maybe u can find it through them. U may be able to get a pig tail from a dismantler and u can solder it in.

here is a decent kit with a bunch of tools, if u can figure out what pin it is u can just just by the single tool.

Amazon Amazon
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 01:56 PM
  #36  
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Ran a new speed sensor shielded cable from sensor to x connector, routed it away from the motor and around the back O2 sensor connection areas. Done.
Results--so far...
The motor idles smooth at about 695- 720RPM after warmup (was idling about 800 + rpm)
The Triprotic transmission actually will start out in first gear and shift up smoothly and accelerate like never before. ( it would always start out in third and was a dog.)
So far no random loss of power/ shutdown...
Planning a longer ride this week to see how the car handles.

Bentley Wire diagram for my 2001 was actually the 2002 diagram as reported above.
My X connector needed a good cleaning.

What I actually found was the original shielded cable wires are stranded aluminum, multiple breaks as far back as I could cut back the outer shielding. the wires would just pull out. contact was good enough while the car was cold, but once the motor warmed up the cable must soften enough to allow the breaks to airgap. I completed conductivity tests several times and always passed, never thought to do one while the engine was hot.

again, to all that helped, a big thank you...
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 05:04 PM
  #37  
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OP - Well played, sir! Seems you did a lot of excellent troubleshooting along with our RL brain trust. Go enjoy the car in good health.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 07:42 PM
  #38  
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Awesome, i wish the weather was warm enough and snow free to drive mine.
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Old Jul 29, 2021 | 10:09 AM
  #39  
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This is by far the best thread I've come across in my search for the cause of an electrical issue in my 04 6GT3. To summarize, when I started my car yesterday after a month in storage it ran well but none of the AC units worked (i.e. no fan and no compressor even though the dash indicator lights illuminated properly). It drove normally. When I started it again in the evening none of the headlights worked except for the parking lights. Drove home, restarted the car and everything worked perfectly. This morning the same issues occurred, i.e. no headlights and no AC/fan. Do these intermittent issues suggest a single cause which might be remedied by a DIYer with minimal automotive electronic expertise? Thanks in advance for any advice!
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Old Jul 29, 2021 | 06:31 PM
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The remedy to my issues lies within the ignition switch. The key needs to be manually turned a few degrees away from the ignition position due to a weak return spring. When I do that all is well. BTW the cost I was quoted for replacement (P &L) was $875 plus tax. That can be avoided for now.
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