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still no start
if I spray starter fluid in she will hit so this means I have spark.
duranetric is tellingg me I still have a crank pod sensor bad?
- my understanding is I will not register rpms while cranking???
Durametric also says my imobalizer is active??? Does this mean it’s not allowing the fuel pump to run???
i have two keys, one with working fob to unlock doors and all, one with a not working fob but I used it to drive for the last two years. just manual unlock the door...
im at the end of my rope, any help would be appreciated.
last I removed the driver seat took out the imobalizer checked for corrosion... all fine and dry.
If the durametric is saying your crank position sensor is bad, then it is probably bad...or a broken wire at the sensor? Maybe test the conductivity of the wire from the sensor.
If the durametric is saying your crank position sensor is bad, then it is probably bad...or a broken wire at the sensor? Maybe test the conductivity of the wire from the sensor.
I replaced with new OEM.
is there a way to test the harness plug? Is there voltage at the plug?
I pulled the the old one out and and it ohmd out fine, the new one is good as well
When you crank, does the tach needle bounce about 1/4"?
If not, either the sensor is bad or there's a wire problem. You will then need to check for wire continuity between the DME and the sensor socket.
sQUOTE=Hurdigurdiman;15438688]fuel filter might be worth a change. It's under the car and not a very easy change process but worth looking into.[/QUOTE]
How would that affect the CR reading of "failure"?
Today, tried to direct wire fuel pump, got nothing.
pulled the fuel pump (new) and regulator (old) looks like the regulator was not passing current to the fuel pump. Bypassed the regulator and pump on,.
will order a new regulator.
ok still have the crank pos sensor issues, I’m sure.
Anyone know the pins at the DME to Test harness wires?
im guessing when I pulled the original Crank sensor the wire(s) broke.
still curious if because she has not fired and ran since I changed it, will it report bad until it actually fires?
s
Last edited by Steve.neely; 11-19-2018 at 12:01 PM.
Reason: fuel regulator= fuel sending unit (sorry guys)
Today, tried to direct wire fuel pump, got nothing.
pulled the fuel pump (new) and regulator (old) looks like the regulator was not passing current to the fuel pump. Bypassed the regulator and pump on,.
will order a new regulator.
ok still have the crank pos sensor issues, I’m sure.
Anyone know the pins at the DME to Test harness wires?
im guessing when I pulled the original Crank sensor the wire(s) broke.
still curious if because she has not fired and ran since I changed it, will it report bad until it actually fires?
s
any any additional thoughts?
Still waiting on a new sending unit, ordered a complete set on amazon, fuel pump only showed up. Ugh!!!
i noticed that when I checked voltage at the relay, I only had 9.6v but at the battery I had + 12 v
wondering now if I have other issues as well.
Cant troubleshoot without the sending unit.
Just makes me think that if I have voltage of any kind at the relay, that the crank pos sensor is working???
s
It's taken me a while to to get parts and update this thread.
Work Done
1. New CPS
2. New Fuel Pump
3. New fuel sending unit (culprit for no fuel, no power to the fuel pump)
Current conditions.
When I had no fuel to the motor, I could spray a little starting fluid and the engine would hit. Now I have fuel, and starter fluid and no hits at all (it does crank) battery is fully charged.
I have replaced the FP, FSU and verify / Durametric that I can turn on/off power to the fuel pump, Disconnected the fuel filter and the fuel will spray into a catch pan (strong flow)
Now even with Starting fluid I get no (engine fire).
Durametric is clearing all codes I had, no more CPS error...
I have no faults related to fuel, engine, trans...
I do have a couple of error 60, 49... looks like they are related to the door locking mechanism, but that all actually works with ket fob buttons...
I started into chasing spark issues, discovered a mismatch set of Coils on the drivers side, with one being cracked. Since I'm into this beast, I ordered 6 new coil packs and spark plugs.
I checked power to driver side coil packs and I have 12V I believe it's pin 3. I did not do a cont test on ground Pin 2 (to be done)
Now I am stuck, why did I have spark and now I do not? I have not changed anything other than fuel pump and fuel sending unit.
What could have changed, any ideas?
New coils/plugs will be here Friday.
You are going to have to go through some checks. These things come to mind:
1) Confirm the tach needle is bouncing when you crank.
2) Actually check for spark with a new coil and spark plug.
3) Confirm the engine bay engine connectors are not corroded.
4) Reset the DME completely by disconnecting the negative battery lead for 30 minutes.
5) The electrical portion of the ignition switch contributes all sorts of electrical gremlins. Does everything seem to power up on the dashboard?
6) Check relays in Relay Support 2 (see below) Start/Lock in particular.
7) You may have to pull the power distribution box in the passenger footwell to confirm you have not blown one of the 80 amp fusible links inside.
8) Check the engine ground wire is not corroded and firmly connected.
A long time ago there was a thread with similar symptoms to yours and the answer turned out to be the cps gap . Could be a dead end but you might try comparing both sensors and determine if the new one is at the same position .
Completed all the recommended tasks DBJoe996 recomended. (thank you to all that have helped so far)
Added a few things,
using my long jumper cables, ran a ground directly to the motor and to the motor compartment.
read in a very old post, a driver had to start his 996 in neutral. Guess something was up with being in Park.
Durametric says I need to reprogram my keys,
weird, Car cranks, key fob unlocks/locks my doors... Dashboard lights up/ everything looks right.
I do not get a tack needle bounce (not sure I ever had a bounce)
New CPS (x2) and continuity test CPS to ECM is good. (My old CPS did not have any burns/rubs so spacing should be ok)
Called an independent garage, asked about reprogramming my keys, he said, that Durametric is not always correct, and the car should not crank if the keys are disabled.
Mine appear to be working.
If I can't narrow down this issue this week, off she goes to the garage.
I'm at a complete loss.
Any other ideas???
The new sensor gap ( spacing) was the issue .He had to shim it out .Assuming the tach was operational before the episode -if it isn't bouncing when turning over the crank signal is not there .
If the starter cranks, your keys/immobilizer are fine. You need to verify spark and fuel. Still no tach needle bounce? The bounce will be like only 1/8" or so.
11-17-2018, 02:56 PM
996 still down
