996 still down
#16
Sorry to hear that this is being so troublesome to you but I am thinking its time to take it to a pro. You will probably cost yourself more money by throwing all these parts at it than it will cost just to fix it professionally.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#17
I buttoned up everything last night, I'm done.
@DCdrechsal, I found the CPS shim thread that you mentioned, that was the last thing I did last night. 30 thousands shim was recommended. no help there, I did play around from 30 to 80. still no go.
Durametric still kicking out immobilizer error and reprogram keys....
Fuel supply has been fixed, and I can smell fuel in the exhaust.
No Spark... or so it appears.
all parts were actually needed, maybe a few coils packs, but when changing 3 change them all.
What is strange about the entire project,
when I had no fuel to the motor it would fire on starter fluid.
when I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit, no spark???
chasing the gremlins has been discouraging.
thanks again all, time to go to the shop.
Steve
@DCdrechsal, I found the CPS shim thread that you mentioned, that was the last thing I did last night. 30 thousands shim was recommended. no help there, I did play around from 30 to 80. still no go.
Durametric still kicking out immobilizer error and reprogram keys....
Fuel supply has been fixed, and I can smell fuel in the exhaust.
No Spark... or so it appears.
all parts were actually needed, maybe a few coils packs, but when changing 3 change them all.
What is strange about the entire project,
when I had no fuel to the motor it would fire on starter fluid.
when I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit, no spark???
chasing the gremlins has been discouraging.
thanks again all, time to go to the shop.
Steve
#18
I’m back,
pushed the 996 out of the garage yesterday it’s been sitting since my last post, going to give it a bath before I drag it to the shop.
wahsed it top and bottom, thought I would hit the ignition one last time to check if the battery was charged, She fired right up, ran a little rough for a minute or two, settled down running smooth.
shut it down and tried this morning, nothing.
Since it was wet when it started figured it helped narrow down to a few spots. checked all the grounds, cleaned them up, still cranks no fire. One last ditch effort took the CPS cable harness side gave it a counter twist (opposite of the natural twist, car fired up running like a top.
ran it for the past hour with shut offs/ wait 5 minutes fires right back up. ( btw I have done this before with no success)
chasing ghosts means check your grounds as well. Looks like a combo issues. But the CPS cable is tepremental for sure.
should I rebuild the harness or cut and patch with a new connector???
Any one have to do to do this in the past?
checking before I try something stupid!!!
thanks all
steve
pushed the 996 out of the garage yesterday it’s been sitting since my last post, going to give it a bath before I drag it to the shop.
wahsed it top and bottom, thought I would hit the ignition one last time to check if the battery was charged, She fired right up, ran a little rough for a minute or two, settled down running smooth.
shut it down and tried this morning, nothing.
Since it was wet when it started figured it helped narrow down to a few spots. checked all the grounds, cleaned them up, still cranks no fire. One last ditch effort took the CPS cable harness side gave it a counter twist (opposite of the natural twist, car fired up running like a top.
ran it for the past hour with shut offs/ wait 5 minutes fires right back up. ( btw I have done this before with no success)
chasing ghosts means check your grounds as well. Looks like a combo issues. But the CPS cable is tepremental for sure.
should I rebuild the harness or cut and patch with a new connector???
Any one have to do to do this in the past?
checking before I try something stupid!!!
thanks all
steve
#20
have not posted in some time,
started it up somewhere around February of this year still had Durametric telling me emissions fail.
walked away till about June, fired it up, have the coke bottle sound so I replaced the evap switch at the fuel port. still had the sound, drove it a bit, let it idle a bit (between the two operations about a full tank of gas)no more sound, ran the test again, all passed so I rushed her down to get a smog test. PASS, registered.... all good. So after about 2 years in the garage giving me one issue after another,
replaced-
new battery
evap switch
O2 sensors,
coil packs (upgraded)
2 x fuel pump relay
fuel pump
fuel pump sending unit
2x for the RPM sensor
... probably a few more items,
after all that my wife said she doesn't like it anymore. :-( now what, hell hate to get rid of it, runs like a raped ape.
one last thought, there has been a few mentions of evap failures; with comments like it needs to be driven ~200 miles etc. so my troubles have gone away (knock on wood) is there really something to this 200 mile thing or is it motor hours time...? Anyone have any thoughts for the next discouraged wanna be do it yourselfer like me?
Thanks everyone for the help....
S
started it up somewhere around February of this year still had Durametric telling me emissions fail.
walked away till about June, fired it up, have the coke bottle sound so I replaced the evap switch at the fuel port. still had the sound, drove it a bit, let it idle a bit (between the two operations about a full tank of gas)no more sound, ran the test again, all passed so I rushed her down to get a smog test. PASS, registered.... all good. So after about 2 years in the garage giving me one issue after another,
replaced-
new battery
evap switch
O2 sensors,
coil packs (upgraded)
2 x fuel pump relay
fuel pump
fuel pump sending unit
2x for the RPM sensor
... probably a few more items,
after all that my wife said she doesn't like it anymore. :-( now what, hell hate to get rid of it, runs like a raped ape.
one last thought, there has been a few mentions of evap failures; with comments like it needs to be driven ~200 miles etc. so my troubles have gone away (knock on wood) is there really something to this 200 mile thing or is it motor hours time...? Anyone have any thoughts for the next discouraged wanna be do it yourselfer like me?
Thanks everyone for the help....
S
#22
I'm back...
Well, I passed smog no problem, have been driving locally, put about 1k miles on it, and then she shut down on me at a stoplight. restarted after a few tries... fast fwd to a few more rides the same thing every time I would slow down and stop.
My thoughts were correct, the CPS harness side plug was bad but not just that, as I tried to slice in a new plug, I found that the #2 (tan wire harness side was indeed broke further back) UHG!!!!
with the harness wire (tan) way too short to get some good wire to splice in, the other two, White and Black are good, does anyone know what the tan wire is? (is it ground, voltage or pulse?)
I'm currently looking for an alternate path, (found one) to run a new cable wire up to the ECU harness plug.
Has anyone done this before if so, how did you route the cable?
I have proper cable(industrial sensor cable)
I really do not want to drop the entire motor to fix one little wire.
Well, I passed smog no problem, have been driving locally, put about 1k miles on it, and then she shut down on me at a stoplight. restarted after a few tries... fast fwd to a few more rides the same thing every time I would slow down and stop.
My thoughts were correct, the CPS harness side plug was bad but not just that, as I tried to slice in a new plug, I found that the #2 (tan wire harness side was indeed broke further back) UHG!!!!
with the harness wire (tan) way too short to get some good wire to splice in, the other two, White and Black are good, does anyone know what the tan wire is? (is it ground, voltage or pulse?)
I'm currently looking for an alternate path, (found one) to run a new cable wire up to the ECU harness plug.
Has anyone done this before if so, how did you route the cable?
I have proper cable(industrial sensor cable)
I really do not want to drop the entire motor to fix one little wire.
Last edited by Steve.neely; 02-10-2021 at 01:47 PM.
#23
The Euro spec for wiring says that solid brown is ground, BUT the engine speed sensor may have been grounded direct to the DME for noise suppression. So you need to track down that specific ground wire and patch it in. The wires should go over the top of the engine and to some connectors in the right hand side of the engine bay.
#24
Theprf,
Wow thanks for the quick response, I could not find any specific details on the cps sensor.
The harness does flow to the rear, over the motor, (looks like it almost lies directly on the head and under the intake manifold.) if there is a plug somewhere under the manifold, I'll probably break more items... Some of the plastic is brittle.
thanks again.
S
Wow thanks for the quick response, I could not find any specific details on the cps sensor.
The harness does flow to the rear, over the motor, (looks like it almost lies directly on the head and under the intake manifold.) if there is a plug somewhere under the manifold, I'll probably break more items... Some of the plastic is brittle.
thanks again.
S
#25
The plugs are way over to the right side above the frame rail behind the tail light.
DeJeeper has his engine out, perhaps you could ask him for some pictures - even though he's got s 3.4 the plugs are in the same spot.
DeJeeper has his engine out, perhaps you could ask him for some pictures - even though he's got s 3.4 the plugs are in the same spot.
#26
I dont have a good pic of the x51 connectors and the motor went back in last night.
Basically the wire goes from the sensor into the harness that goes under the plenum to the passenger side and then up to the large round connector. It is possible to jumper or test continuity to this point. Someone has to check the bentley manual to tell u where that wire goes in your car. I can try to remember to do it when i get home.
Basically the wire goes from the sensor into the harness that goes under the plenum to the passenger side and then up to the large round connector. It is possible to jumper or test continuity to this point. Someone has to check the bentley manual to tell u where that wire goes in your car. I can try to remember to do it when i get home.
#27
De Jeeper
Thanks for the reply, Yes I did locate the two, barrel plugs (Top and Bottom), I could route a new cable to them and hopefully abandon the original three (assuming the grounds are not spliced together somewhere along the way.)
I also located a grounding point with 3 brown wires and same gauge, just to the left (looking fwd) of the original CPS plug location and about even but set back from the Camshaft sensor. They appear to come from the same harness, by chance do you remember what that ground point supports?
Thanks
S
Thanks for the reply, Yes I did locate the two, barrel plugs (Top and Bottom), I could route a new cable to them and hopefully abandon the original three (assuming the grounds are not spliced together somewhere along the way.)
I also located a grounding point with 3 brown wires and same gauge, just to the left (looking fwd) of the original CPS plug location and about even but set back from the Camshaft sensor. They appear to come from the same harness, by chance do you remember what that ground point supports?
Thanks
S
#29
That ground point is also on the 3.4l. I have not tested those wires but it should also be shown in the bentley schmatics. Is the main engine ground clean and tight? Its on the passengerside where the cam lock tool would bolt to on the 3.4l.