DGI's Project 996 "Sally"
#106
Car is on the ground after a couple of months on my lift.
Front suspension is all together. Rennline stud conversion is on all four corners.
Need to install rear suspension. Picked up some RSS Dog Bones from the classifieds so they'll compliment the rear shock mounts and rear toe link nicely. May replace the tuning forks on the rear while I'm in there.
RSS engine mounts and a new serpentine belt will complete the package before it heads off for an alignment. Need to flush coolant and brake fluids but lets get it driving first so I can at least have some motivation to keep wrenching.
Car sounds neat without mufflers but decided i'm not going to run the muffler deletes at all. Ordered my Fister exhaust today. Will send out the mufflers tomorrow and hope to have them back in two weeks or so.
ROW M030 sits considerably higher than whatever worn setup was on there when I bought it. Should ride alot nicer and navigate speed bumps easier but I see adjustable coilovers in my future. Shame to sit so high with all the race bits on there but we'll see how it performs before I spend more $$$. New control arms wont be cheap anyway and they'll be on there sometime in June.
Mustang comes home today and will occupy lift. I'll get to working on that slowly but the 996 still is the priority to get it "complete" and ready for some PCA AutoX action
Front suspension is all together. Rennline stud conversion is on all four corners.
Need to install rear suspension. Picked up some RSS Dog Bones from the classifieds so they'll compliment the rear shock mounts and rear toe link nicely. May replace the tuning forks on the rear while I'm in there.
RSS engine mounts and a new serpentine belt will complete the package before it heads off for an alignment. Need to flush coolant and brake fluids but lets get it driving first so I can at least have some motivation to keep wrenching.
Car sounds neat without mufflers but decided i'm not going to run the muffler deletes at all. Ordered my Fister exhaust today. Will send out the mufflers tomorrow and hope to have them back in two weeks or so.
ROW M030 sits considerably higher than whatever worn setup was on there when I bought it. Should ride alot nicer and navigate speed bumps easier but I see adjustable coilovers in my future. Shame to sit so high with all the race bits on there but we'll see how it performs before I spend more $$$. New control arms wont be cheap anyway and they'll be on there sometime in June.
Mustang comes home today and will occupy lift. I'll get to working on that slowly but the 996 still is the priority to get it "complete" and ready for some PCA AutoX action
#107
Car is back in the air but on jack stands now.
accessed rear strut mounts through cabin, alot easier than I expected
Rear suspension should be a breeze but we’ll see what needs to be reused and what breaks lol
engine mounts should be a cake walk also. Should be out for alignment by the end of next week.
OEM mufflers are headed out tomorrow for Fister mod. Will be running muffler deletes until they return!
finally, thinking about plasti-dipping the wheels as their finish leaves alot to be desired.
accessed rear strut mounts through cabin, alot easier than I expected
Rear suspension should be a breeze but we’ll see what needs to be reused and what breaks lol
engine mounts should be a cake walk also. Should be out for alignment by the end of next week.
OEM mufflers are headed out tomorrow for Fister mod. Will be running muffler deletes until they return!
finally, thinking about plasti-dipping the wheels as their finish leaves alot to be desired.
#108
Baby steps
RSS Engine mounts are in! Was pretty straight forward. Factory mounts were indeed very tired
Took the passenger side rear shock out. Easy enough. Not sure what the assembly procedure for the RSS top mount is though.
They came with some spacers that I figure are needed to give the bearing room to move but something looks off. See pics below. Any tips would be appreciated
RSS Engine mounts are in! Was pretty straight forward. Factory mounts were indeed very tired
Took the passenger side rear shock out. Easy enough. Not sure what the assembly procedure for the RSS top mount is though.
They came with some spacers that I figure are needed to give the bearing room to move but something looks off. See pics below. Any tips would be appreciated
#109
Adjusted the direction i'm going with this rebuild project for the time being.
Stopped by SSI (local Porsche specialist) yesterday so they could look at my rear shock setup and it was determined that the RSS rear shock mounts are for coilover applications. No worries, the factory rear shock mounts were actually in good condition so I figured I'd run these until I eventually upgrade to coilovers.
Then we started talking about the alignment process with all of these adjustable arms that i'd be installing on the car. Long story short, i'm going to run stock style arms for the time being because spending that much $$$ on dialing in a car on stock style non-adjustable suspension is not worth it at this point. Once I move to coilovers i'll install all the adjustable bits and add more neat stuff to the suspension but for right now I'm going to be swapping back to stock style tie rod ends and getting the car on the road. I should be able to take it down to SSI by the end of the week to have them align the car and do some maintenance stuff on it.
Working on my car 30 min here and an hour there is not getting the car ready to drive any sooner and the weather is getting better.
The car should be completely transformed either way from the last time I drove it. Should be fun
Stopped by SSI (local Porsche specialist) yesterday so they could look at my rear shock setup and it was determined that the RSS rear shock mounts are for coilover applications. No worries, the factory rear shock mounts were actually in good condition so I figured I'd run these until I eventually upgrade to coilovers.
Then we started talking about the alignment process with all of these adjustable arms that i'd be installing on the car. Long story short, i'm going to run stock style arms for the time being because spending that much $$$ on dialing in a car on stock style non-adjustable suspension is not worth it at this point. Once I move to coilovers i'll install all the adjustable bits and add more neat stuff to the suspension but for right now I'm going to be swapping back to stock style tie rod ends and getting the car on the road. I should be able to take it down to SSI by the end of the week to have them align the car and do some maintenance stuff on it.
Working on my car 30 min here and an hour there is not getting the car ready to drive any sooner and the weather is getting better.
The car should be completely transformed either way from the last time I drove it. Should be fun
#111
Thats actually my 1993 GT that just got back from a paint job/color change (it was white not long ago). It still needs its drivetrain and interior put back in. I've owned it for 19 years so I'd rather spend extra $$ on it to get it right and put off performance enhancements to the 996 for now but the Mustang is still 3-5 months from being complete so I want to get the 996 driving to have something other than my JCW Clubman to have fun in
#113
My recent '99 C2 purchase will hopefully be heading down a very similar path as yours this year! I'm a little confused why your local shop tried to convince you to go back to stock arms before getting aligned... The RSS arms are extremely easy to adjust and should make the car EASIER to align and get even side to side. I had my RX7 racecar done a couple years ago before I got my own alignment setup and it only cost me around 80 bucks for a 4-wheel camber and toe alignment... That was with individually adjustable toe and camber arms in the rear and doing toe and camber plates in the front.
#114
Just a car guy
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,927
Likes: 836
From: South Lyon, Michigan, Ewe Ess Eh
Stopping in to place my mark. Looking good, D.
Now that I see the Mini, it explains something I was having trouble rationalizing. I couldn't make those graphics work on a 911. It's all clear now.
Give 'er hell. Looks like we may be on a race to see who gets on the road first. Unofficial, of course.
Now that I see the Mini, it explains something I was having trouble rationalizing. I couldn't make those graphics work on a 911. It's all clear now.
Give 'er hell. Looks like we may be on a race to see who gets on the road first. Unofficial, of course.
#115
Stopping in to place my mark. Looking good, D.
Now that I see the Mini, it explains something I was having trouble rationalizing. I couldn't make those graphics work on a 911. It's all clear now.
Give 'er hell. Looks like we may be on a race to see who gets on the road first. Unofficial, of course.
Now that I see the Mini, it explains something I was having trouble rationalizing. I couldn't make those graphics work on a 911. It's all clear now.
Give 'er hell. Looks like we may be on a race to see who gets on the road first. Unofficial, of course.
of course today I realized that I left the bump stops off of the front strut assemblies (not included with kit from carnewal as im suppose to reuse the oem stops, but mine were completely gone) so I ordered new ones that will be here in two days...
do I really need them though?
just replaced the bushings (O-Rings) on my horn plate. They were shot but still no horn.
fuse is solid, need to jump horns to see if they work now. Too bad I already reinstalled the front bumper...
#117
My recent '99 C2 purchase will hopefully be heading down a very similar path as yours this year! I'm a little confused why your local shop tried to convince you to go back to stock arms before getting aligned... The RSS arms are extremely easy to adjust and should make the car EASIER to align and get even side to side. I had my RX7 racecar done a couple years ago before I got my own alignment setup and it only cost me around 80 bucks for a 4-wheel camber and toe alignment... That was with individually adjustable toe and camber arms in the rear and doing toe and camber plates in the front.
SSI insisted that with the RSS toe arm, bumpsteer would need to be adjusted and that would take the bulk if the alignment time front. Then adjusting track width with the adjustable dog bones in the rear... unless of course im missing something
#118
I hope I'm not the bearer of bad news.
#119
Did you reuse the rear bump stops? If not did you know that they're different for the M030 ROW suspension? Standard 996.333.105.02, and Sport 996.333.105.03. I think the Sport versions are 10-12mm shorter.
I hope I'm not the bearer of bad news.
I hope I'm not the bearer of bad news.
time to fit rear suspension and break down front once again. OEM tie rods incoming from FCP.
Im seriously considering selling my RSS parts now. Debating if they are overkill for any intended use I plan to subject the car to...
could have easily bought a complete factory style suspension setup (arms/ etc) for what I have in those parts lol
#120
Yeah if you aren't going to be tracking your car there really isn't a need to replace all the suspension pieces with aftermarket. I'm about to order up stock replacement arms and shock mounts/bearings to go with some shiny new Ohlins R&T coilovers.
Bump steer can be a concern but if you aren't lowering the car much you can adjust the aftermarket parts to have the same dimensions as the stock part you are replacing and you probably won't have to touch anything other than regular alignment tweaks. It's only when you go super low and significantly change the angle of the control arm in relation to the tie rod that you can have problems.
Edit: At the end of the day if you like the shop you were going to have do the work, you should most likely go with what they suggest and are comfortable with. That will usually get you the best results in the end.
Bump steer can be a concern but if you aren't lowering the car much you can adjust the aftermarket parts to have the same dimensions as the stock part you are replacing and you probably won't have to touch anything other than regular alignment tweaks. It's only when you go super low and significantly change the angle of the control arm in relation to the tie rod that you can have problems.
Edit: At the end of the day if you like the shop you were going to have do the work, you should most likely go with what they suggest and are comfortable with. That will usually get you the best results in the end.