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Greetings, 2000 Cabriolet with 27,000 miles. Noticed a 2-inch coolant spot on the floor over 5 days; was dripping onto the drivers side exhaust pipe. I’ve been smelling coolant right around the coolant tank. Didnt have time this morning to check thoroughly, but a quick check revealed nothing on the (super-expensive) coolant tank. My question: could this be a water pump failure (due to age, not miles), or does the water pump not leak in that area? Anybody have experience with a leak in that area? Will dive deeper into this weekend; just looking for ideas for now, and I did search before posting. Thank you. -Jim
Most likely the expansion tank, based on that area. You won't see a leak/anything unless the car is up to operating temp/pressure. The tanks are notorious for splitting along the bottom seam but generally only leak under pressure. If you're leaking coolant (as opposed to just a little condensation - which is a normal product of combustion) from your tailpipe(s) you potentially have much bigger problems (cracked head)... Good luck! I hope it turns out to be the tank
No coolant from inside the exhaust. I’m “guessing” it’s the expansion tank, due to their reputation and the location, but wasn’t sure from where where the water pump leaks.
Will check the tabk tank while the engine is warm, also. Thanks again.
Side question: I’m not a mechanic but can do things like brakes, spark plugs, etc. When looking at Pelican’s website, water pump replacement isn’t too bad. Would you guys do your own? I have a garage and don’t mind wrenching.
It doesn't take much expertise to replace the water pump. Just follow the Pelican Parts instructions. But a word of caution, there are different length bolts that bolt the pump to the block, so pay close attention to which bolt comes out of which hole. I removed a bolt and placed it in the correct hole on the new water pump in order to keep track.
While you are at it, put in a low temp thermostat at the same time. Follow the correct procedures for refilling the coolant and "burping" the car.
A leaking water pump is pretty evident...it leaks and drips straight below the water pump. If the puddle is anywhere to the left, then coolant cap (should be blue and end in 04) check first, make sure it is none of the hoses because there are plastic fittings that get brittle with age (the one right next to the expansion tank and in particular the one right next to the oil filler tube), then feel/look around under the expansion tank for any moisture.
Greetings, 2000 Cabriolet with 27,000 miles. Noticed a 2-inch coolant spot on the floor over 5 days; was dripping onto the drivers side exhaust pipe. I’ve been smelling coolant right around the coolant tank. Didnt have time this morning to check thoroughly, but a quick check revealed nothing on the (super-expensive) coolant tank. My question: could this be a water pump failure (due to age, not miles), or does the water pump not leak in that area? Anybody have experience with a leak in that area? Will dive deeper into this weekend; just looking for ideas for now, and I did search before posting. Thank you. -Jim
there’s a Plastic Tee connecting some small coolant hoses near the water pump, and if it cracks slightly or the hoses are old, they will leak. Usually this leak is fairly large (a large puddle) but I would check those first and you will see if there is build-up of sludge from leaking hoses. They are behind some of the accessories and the serpentine belt so if you have a relatively clean motor, this area can still be easily missed.
there’s a Plastic Tee connecting some small coolant hoses near the water pump, and if it cracks slightly or the hoses are old, they will leak. Usually this leak is fairly large (a large puddle) but I would check those first and you will see if there is build-up of sludge from leaking hoses. They are behind some of the accessories and the serpentine belt so if you have a relatively clean motor, this area can still be easily missed.
I will caution beware checking any of the plastic hose t-pieces and barbs "aggressively"...or you will cause the issue you are hoping you don't have! They get really brittle with age
As someone already said, check when it's fully upto temp...if it's coolant then what ever you see with it parked will be way more obvious when it's upto normal operating pressure.
One other general caution...I dodged a bullet recently with a very slow coolant drip at the AOS connection that clearly had been happening for way longer than I had realized (it stopped completely as the vehicle cooled). I park on an angled driveway, there's a nasty little shelf in that coolant bottle that holds a little coolant pool near the cap and min/max marks....I had way less coolant in the bottle than a casual quick look had indicated.
No coolant from inside the exhaust. I’m “guessing” it’s the expansion tank, due to their reputation and the location, but wasn’t sure from where where the water pump leaks.
Will check the tabk tank while the engine is warm, also. Thanks again.
Side question: I’m not a mechanic but can do things like brakes, spark plugs, etc. When looking at Pelican’s website, water pump replacement isn’t too bad. Would you guys do your own? I have a garage and don’t mind wrenching.
-Jim
Just about everything on the outside of the block is DIY friendly...
j just had this failure; unfortunately, I was 400 miles away from home with no tools or time so I had to take it and leave it with the Porsche dealer.. they had the car for a week...they informed me it was the coolant cap (which I replaced less than 500 miles prior - they thought it was cross-threaded). When I dropped the car off, I told them it was the tank....long story short, I made a special trip back to pick up the car (400 miles), picked the car up, drive three blocks, parked the car, and coolant was dripping steadily in the exact area you describe. It was only leaking when up to temperature, despite being told they did a pressure test. It’s fixed now, $800 later.
Hopefully you paid with a credit card - cancel the charge! Then negotiate for the tank and time at cost. It's a $150-$200 part and an 1-1.5hr labor... No way it should cost you more than $450-$500. Besides that I'm sure they charged you for a new cap even though yours was probably fine.
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