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Hi @TexSquirrel , can you insert this post above the image of removing the courtesy light sentence?
6. Use a plastic trim panel tool (you may want to use two and pry from two sides) to remove the air bag badge. Behind it, you will find a hidden socket head screw; remove using a 4mm hex bit socket.
This is a great thread and came in really handy today when I replaced the door latch on the driver's side of my '02 Carrera. The reason I replaced mine is because sometimes I had to pull the internal handle twice to open the driver's door. The most difficult part of the job, beside being extra careful with 20 year old brittle plastic and leather during the door card removal process, was lining up the key lock rod with the new mechanism. Some fiddling and patience and I finally go it. The new doors the first time now.
Since I just did this job, here are some additional comments for this thread:
- I wore a headlamp led light and had great visibility every step of the way and didn't need any other lights. You can pick those up from Amazon for under $20 now.
- When removing the old latch, you need to remove a plastic crown shaped piece which goes over the white door pull cable. This piece needs to be transferred to the new latch to keep the cable locked in.
- I used an aftermarket latch made by URO and I'm very happy with the results. A side by side comparison proved they are identical.
- While the latch is out, peek inside the door shell and check for plastic connectors holding electrical wires to the door. These are held on with plastic grommets which are attached to the wire with felt tape. Due to age and heat, this tape is usually loose by now. I removed the wiring harness connecting to the door handle and reconnected the wire to the plastic connector using two small zip ties. This will ensure no weird sounds in the door in the future.
- When installing the door pull cable into the new latch, think about how it's going to sit inside the door and then look at the other end that will connect to the inside of the door card, behind the interior door pull. The white plastic connector which attaches to the inside of the door card has one side which is deeper and locks into the door card. This piece needs to be facing out to the back of the door card. If not, you'll have to twist the cable which puts tension on it. Picture below
I hope that helps others.
Detailed look inside the door shell. The door lock rod further away was the hardest to line up.
securing the exterior door handle cable to plastic connectors to attach to the inside of the door shell
The crown shaped plastic piece you need to take off the original door latch. Carefully snap off.
OEM vs URO door latch with the plastic crown piece remove and reinstalled on the new part. They are identical.
Correct position of white door release cable, with larger white box at the end facing into the backside of the door card.
I am so happy I found this thread as I am going to attempt this fix for the right side (passenger door) window not staying down a few mms when opened. Strangely it only happens when the door is opened form the outside. If you open the door form the inside the window stays dropped as it should and you can close it without holding the handle. My only dilemma now is choosing the alternative part. I am tempted to go with the VW equivalent that has the closest matching part number: 3B1837016* where instead of the * you'd have a "P". I found 2 parts on ebay, one ending in "A" and the other in "CG" so 3B1837016A and 3B1837016CG respectively (links below). The last one being made by URO as I've seen mentioned in another post. Can anyone help with the decision of one over the other?
PS: I do try to put the highest quality parts and am only considering making an exception here for the exorbitant price difference for a part that doesn't impact the safety of driving the car.
At $550 USD+ I was willing to go through the risk of getting a VW part for under $100 USD. But for $300 CAD I think I won't take a chance. My only concern is that I'm not 100% sure if my car came with the M534/535 security option. I don't see it in the list on VIN analytics (see below) but my car alarm does go off if you move inside after locking the doors.
2003 Porsche Carrera 4S Coupe
Division: PCL
Prod Month: 2003-05-01
Price: $130,035.00
Exterior: Arctic Silver Metallic
Interior: Black Full Leather
Warranty Start: April 22, 2004
BASE Porsche Base Model
342 Heated Front Seats
680 Bose High End Sound Package
AH Black Full Leather
E82 Aluminum Look Interior Small
M6A Black Mats - Porsche lettering
P74 Xenon Headlamp Package
P78 Sport Seats w/Full Leather Int
X1 Arctic Silver Metallic Top
XSC Porsche Crest in Headrest
Y06 Alum/Lthr Shifter/Brake Handle
Y29 Aluminum/Chrome X71,X70,X54
but my car alarm does go off if you move inside after locking the doors.
Two presses of the key fob, or two back (lock) twists of the key in the door, disables the interior infrared sensors. I'm not sure but two presses of the console lock button may also work. When do you lock the doors while still inside the car?
Two presses of the key fob, or two back (lock) twists of the key in the door, disables the interior infrared sensors. I'm not sure but two presses of the console lock button may also work. When do you lock the doors while still inside the car?
it only happened when I left my window opened and locked then threw my jacket inside through the window. My concern is more wether that’s the same as the 534 alarm option or not to pick the right actuator.
I was just thinking this as I read this post. I can appreciate the attraction, and some times it works out great! Other times, not so much. I totally understand the VW route, but when one doesn’t own a VW… I’ve been down both roads, maturity happens and you decide how to approach things differently. For me the “premium” OEM price, ends up being fair, often.
Anyhow, I’ve got a lock problem that the OP’s experience might aid me ina diagnosis.
I have 02 Cab C2. When insert and turn in either direction a key in the door, NOTHING happens, no sounds or clicks.
What would that be a symptom of?
I'm guessing/hoping a dead dead battery.
Awesome thread, OP et al…
————————
I have this same problem but didn’t see any answer to this poster’s query with same problem. Any suggestions before I tear into it please!
So I modified my new VW passenger lock today and thought it would be helpful to share a few tips as to the way I did it - this might not be the optimal way for everyone but worked well for me so hopefully helps
1. Unmodified lock - you can see the extra bit of plastic we need to remove recessed at the top in red
2. Remove securing screw to show triangle mount that metal plate is keyed to
3. Remove plastic part - to make my life easier I left the metal plate in place, and just lifted it up and slid the plastic out from underneath. The springs will come out but we can solve that in a minute
4. Remove extra plastic not needed - I tried using a dremel but it didn't work well with the plastic so in the end I used a pair of wire cutters, and cut towards the conveniently placed gaps in the top plastic so that it came apart in 3 pieces
5. Slide the plastic back under the metal plate and secure with the screw so that we can start mounting our springs. The top spring is easy as there is one hole in the lock for the left side, and one on the metal plate for the right hand side. The spring for the plastic plate is harder to fit as this is under more pressure - the best way I found to do this was as per the photo below where the bottom edge of the spring is aligned in the plastic part first, then feed the middle of the spring through the gap between the plastic and the metal plate, and then pop the top of the spring in to place on the metal plate using a pair of pliers or similar. This requires a little bit of force but if you hold the top of the spring tightly in the pliers you can direct it in fairly easily
6. Finished lock with all springs back in place and excess plastic removed
I’ll also add to this thread (if anyone gets down this far) that if you put a good shop light into the door - so you can illuminate the entire inside of the door - it’s actually not that difficult to slide the door handle with it’s threaded rod into the door properly.
First, slide that cast aluminum backing plate - with its long shaft that slots into the electromechanical door lock we are replacing - through the external door handle hole from the outside in. You’ll have to jockey it a bit until it’s through and into the inside of the door. Takes maybe 15 seconds, so it’s easy. Then, line up the shaft protruding from the lock cylinder in the cast aluminum piece and slide it into the receptacle slot in the locking mechanism that you just bought and installed.
Now, slot the cast aluminum backing plate into the door opening until it fits into its natural position. It’ll look and feel right when it’s in its correct position. Look at it. Note how it looks and feels. Then take the external door handle and carefully start to slot it into place as you hold the cast aluminum piece with one hand (through the inside door openings which are easily big enough for any average sized person’s hands and forearms) while working with the door handle mechanism with your other hand. You’ll need to be sitting outboard of the aft edge of the door and basically sort of straddling it as you hold the cast aluminum piece with one hand and the door handle with the other. As you slowly sort of wiggle it all together, (outside door handle to inside cast aluminum piece) it will start to line up and then will quickly all fall into place as the external door handle slots perfectly into place. When it does, reach in and hand screw in the two 10mm nuts you removed earlier. Then tighten them down just as you loosened them earlier.
Actually removing the entire external door handle assembly beforehand is key, as - once you’ve begun reassembly - it allows one to look and see directly back at the locking mechanism you installed moments before and see the slot that the big shaft has to slide back into. You then easily maneuver the cast aluminum backing plate through the hole, roughly line it up, slot the shaft into the locking mechanism (that you can clearly see through the opening), then carefully realign said backing plate into its slot in the door until it’s right. Then, as mentioned, carefully and methodically line up the door handle assembly - being mindful of noting the threaded rod on the assembly and simply using a finger to line it up so it’ll pass through the opening in the door skin - until it’s slotted into the door frame and cast aluminum backing plate. When all is lined up, hand tighten the two 10mm nuts and then fully lock them down with your tools, and that’s it. Make sure your wiring harnesses are clear of the window glass as it cycles up and down, and you’re good to go.
Last edited by 450knotOffice; 04-10-2023 at 12:01 PM.
I'm the last victim of the dreaded mciroswitch failure. Two years ago my drivers door failed. And today, my passengers door did. I am very much dreading the job, but not enough to fork out 500+ bucks by sending the car to have it repaired.
Last time, I got a unit from VW, which albeit looking the same as the Porsche unit, once mounted, didn't work at all. But what that unit was, was good enough to provide the physical parts needed to replace the damaged bits in the original Porsche part that was in the car: we unsoldered the microswitch and soldered it back to the Porsche part. And also replaced the actual lock, as the coating in the original one had peeled, leaving a very coarse surface (which probably caused the microswitch to wear).
This time, in order to avoid all that, I've ordered a compatible part from VEMO, which is supposed to be a quality aftermarket supplier. The part was 45 euros shipping included... I just hope this will save me the job of having to cannibalise one unit to rebuild the other. Will let you guys know if this one works out of the box.
I just wanted to post an update. I previously made a knock off Volkswagen lock work for my passenger side door. I did have to graft the Porsche pcb over to it and simply use the mechanicals / exterior micro switches of the lock itself. I am super happy about the cost savings. And it still works great. But I did notice that when the lock actually unlocks it sounds different than a factory Porsche lock. Not as deep and reassuring of a click or thump.
The larger aspect of this update is that I had to replace the driver side recently so I sourced the URO branded lock from pelican parts for about 150usd. It worked seamlessly and it sounds like a stock Porsche lock when the striker clicks/ detaches. Alarm still works and everything's happy.
All of this is just food for thought for the next guy, Cheers.
I just wanted to post an update. I previously made a knock off Volkswagen lock work for my passenger side door. I did have to graft the Porsche pcb over to it and simply use the mechanicals / exterior micro switches of the lock itself. I am super happy about the cost savings. And it still works great. But I did notice that when the lock actually unlocks it sounds different than a factory Porsche lock. Not as deep and reassuring of a click or thump.
The larger aspect of this update is that I had to replace the driver side recently so I sourced the URO branded lock from pelican parts for about 150usd. It worked seamlessly and it sounds like a stock Porsche lock when the striker clicks/ detaches. Alarm still works and everything's happy.
All of this is just food for thought for the next guy, Cheers.
First time poster here. Just bought my '02 Cabriolet 4 in late June and love the car. Been able to fix some minor stuff on the car thus far but looking for advice on this problem. Spent way to much time reading this thread and others today to figure out my problem below and looking for advice:
- When trying to open the passenger door from the inside or outside the handles don't actuate the window sufficiently to keep it from hitting the convertible roof trim opening or closing the door.
- Once open I cannot push the window down any more.
- The windows operate up and down and in auto mode just fine from the controls inside the car.
- The LED light on the central locking switch is staying lite all the time no matter if the car is locked or not.
- The passenger door locks open and lock with the central locking switch and the remote but I get a double beep when locking with the remote.
- I've gotten codes on the OBD: 59 central locking limit position, 20 status lead, signal converter, and a whole bunch of X00 Generic communication fault codes.
From reviewing this and other threads today, it appears I need to replace my passenger side latch with a URO or OEM part. I'm hoping to get feedback/confirmation.
It very much sounds like it to get rid of the double beep, code 59 and LED being lit.
To get the required amount of window drop requires taking out the slack out of the wire in the window mechanism. Although I admit that not being able to push the window down further seems to contradict that.
I seem to remember this is possible to a certain extent but if too much slack then the whole mechanism must be replaced.
Last edited by hardtailer; 10-22-2023 at 04:53 AM.
08-28-2022, 05:36 AM
