DBJoe996

I do not understand this. I have had to replace my drivers door latch. I got a OE Porsche door latch and replaced it. A PITA job, but it worked absolutely right with no problems. My original door latch worked for twenty years, so I'm expecting my replacement door latch will last another 20 years. I do not understand why, if you own a Porsche, one would try to save a few bucks and try to use a substitute VW part, and then have an expectation it will work right. Do it once, do it right. I know it is more expensive, but this is one job you need to do right. Just saying.....

TopPorscheFan

I was just thinking this as I read this post. I can appreciate the attraction, and some times it works out great! Other times, not so much. I totally understand the VW route, but when one doesn’t own a VW… I’ve been down both roads, maturity happens and you decide how to approach things differently. For me the “premium” OEM price, ends up being fair, often.

Anyhow, I’ve got a lock problem that the OP’s experience might aid me ina diagnosis.

I have 02 Cab C2. When insert and turn in either direction a key in the door, NOTHING happens, no sounds or clicks.

What would that be a symptom of?
I'm guessing/hoping a dead dead battery.

Awesome thread, OP et al…

sweet victory

I actually just edited that section that brought up using a used part and my experience with it. It may have gotten buried in this thread, but the internal lock mechanism failed, preventing the door from being able to be opened from the inside or outside. After half of hour of fiddling with the manual key lock, I was able to get the door open. (This was probably ~2 years ago from today) I then installed an OEM unit and haven't looked back. That being said, I still decided to leave that section in the original post - with ships just sitting outside ports, parts availability might be an issue, so a used/compatible part might be what's available.


Has the car been sitting for a while?

GrilledTuna

Recently started having the door closed microswitch issue on my 02 996 turbo (original part: 3b1837016p).
Purchased the passenger side VW part (3d2837016) on the CHEAP... while it fixed my window, the alarm / locks no longer worked (single honk, no electronic lock). Without troubleshooting with a durametric etc. I had a hunch it was an internal difference on the electronic side.
After dissembling each lock, turns out I was right. Besides obvious quality differences there was a resistor provisioned in the VW part that the Porsche part had omitted. The Porsche part also appears to have a capacitor that the VW part does not.

With that said, I ended up swapping over the VW door open/close microswitch to the Porsche part. Upon reassembly I noticed the mechanical strike contactor that the microswitch interacts with on the Porsche part was worn/gouged too. So I ended up swapping the mechanical portion of the lock over too.
I do dislike that the VW part is decently cheaper in construction but it works and was a considerable savings. With that said I'm rather proud of my VAG "frankenlock" and ill be sure to follow-up if it wears out prematurely etc.

VW Internals, Missing cap up top, additional resistor down lower.

Porsche Internal, additional cap up top, missing resistor.

Porsche Cap

Worn Porsche door open switch

VW door open switch

Porsche internals with VW switch

Worn strike on Porsche mechanical side.

Porsche Electronics, VW door open microswitch, VW mechanicals.

Side note, its pretty cool Porsche used Cherry switches on their internals.
Hope this maybe helps someone, I know it will frustrate purists but to each their own.

dougn

[QUOTE=GrilledTuna;17967485]Recently started having the door closed microswitch issue on my 02 996 turbo (original part: 3b1837016p).
Purchased the passenger side VW part (3d2837016) on the CHEAP... while it fixed my window, the alarm / locks no longer worked (single honk, no electronic lock). Without troubleshooting with a durametric etc. I had a hunch it was an internal difference on the electronic side.
After dissembling each lock, turns out I was right. Besides obvious quality differences there was a resistor provisioned in the VW part that the Porsche part had omitted. The Porsche part also appears to have a capacitor that the VW part does not.
Check where the circuit board solders to the connector on the porsche part. I bet you find broken solder joints. You need a microscope

GrilledTuna

[QUOTE=dougn;17969184]
Check where the circuit board solders to the connector on the porsche part. I bet you find broken solder joints. You need a microscope[/QUOTEI was worried about that initially. After wiggling and testing with a multimeter those solder joints all passed just fine. It's actually why I chose to splice the switch into the wires and not the board. The P part actually has a pretty nice conformal coating I wanted to preserve. I didn't see it on others pictures above so I'm not sure if this was a revised lock compared to others. Either way, your advice will probably save many a lot of trouble!

hardtailer

Thanks GrilledTuna for the addition of your analysis to this thread.
I have succesfully replaced a worn driver's side lock that wouldn't drop the window with a VW lock and it could well be it causes the single honk when locking the car using the remote (as it isn't caused by the after market radio).
Contrary to your passenger lock woes, my car does indeed lock with the VW lock.

GrilledTuna

That's sweet! I was hoping to get off with just the swap, but my luck isn't that good! Does anyone know how many versions of alarm there were designated for the 996?

moerbeck

I have watched countless hours of videos trying to research what is going with my car and I decided to basically replace all parts that could go wrong and I still don't have a positive outcome. Let's see if someone can help me.

Chief issue is my window isn't dropping (or raising) the final 10mm when I lift the handle. Also, car isn't locking using the key fob or central lock button on the dash. The car can be locked (the driver's door only) using a key.

I have replaced:
- Microswitch on the door handle (the one with the dongle)
- Window regulator as mine was worn out
- Entire door latch assembly (Porsche replacement from URO parts - not used)

I still have a micro switch that supposedly goes on the external part of the door handle but I cannot find it to save my life. If anyone has any idea where it belongs I will gladly remove the door and replace it. What could be wrong. I don't have any faults on the OBD and I am at a total loss on how to fix this. I am happy to buy any parts to get it fixed.

Thank you very much for your help!

vetfever

Good info in here - great write up.

Thank you

vetfever

imhighlander

I conquered this project yesterday evening with the guide of this post. Super helpful!

I didn't see it referenced above but to remove the door panel, you also have to pull the "AIRBAG" (or whatever) plug in the door to get access to a 5(?)mm hex screw to get the door card off. Also, I ended up pulling the exterior door handle so I could finagle the slotted metal lever from the lock tumbler into the door switch.

The process was a little fiddly but in all, not bad. OP's writeup was the biggest help. Thanks!

strathconaman

I just did this today as well, and didn't scroll down to the bottom to see imhighlander's message about the airbag.

OP, this was a great writeup, but could you add the airbag screw in?

sweet victory

I can't believe I missed the airbag screw! Doh.

Thanks for pointing that out fellas, that hidden bastard definitely needs to be in here.



EDIT: This is strange. I can't seem to edit my original post. The edit button is not next to the quote button like it usually is. @TexSquirrel do you think you can help me out here, or direct someone who knows might know what's up?

TexSquirrel

That's strange.
Try logging out and back in and see if that resolves the issue.

TexSquirrel

@sweet victory , You can only edit a post up to 45 after you've posted.
Send me the full text and I'll make the change for you..