Oil separator install
#3
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Originally Posted by AWDGuy
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lol. wish I could offer you come pointers but I replaced mine while it was out for its rebuild....so it was easy-peasy. All I can recommend is make as much room as you can in that engine bay.
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Took 3 days of work, motor in car. Remove the rear bumper cap and heat shields. Drop the motor to the cross-member to gain enough room. The last intake bolt all the way in the back is a royal PITA! Wrap your left arm with a couple of Ace bandages because most of the work is going to be with your left arm going all the way to the back, and there are many sharp things along the left side. It's a doable job, but painful, so have lots of beer and advil at the ready. Take your time and be patient. A lot of stuff has to come out to get to it.
Edit - if you are removing the transmission to service the clutch/IMSB, then I've heard it is a far easier job than going in from the top. Good luck!
Edit - if you are removing the transmission to service the clutch/IMSB, then I've heard it is a far easier job than going in from the top. Good luck!
#6
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Or just drop the engine, and make all of those jobs easier. It isn't that much more work, all things considered. Yes a little more time, but SOOOOO much easier to do work.
#7
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If you have the trans removed, you can remove and replace the AOS without removing the intake manifold. Just did it a few weeks ago. Still sucks, though.
If it was not for having to drain the coolant, removing the entire engine/trans as a unit would be much easier (maybe still is).
If it was not for having to drain the coolant, removing the entire engine/trans as a unit would be much easier (maybe still is).
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#8
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Personally, I'd take draining the coolant and separating the AC/PS lines over contortions.
#9
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Took 3 days of work, motor in car. Remove the rear bumper cap and heat shields. Drop the motor to the cross-member to gain enough room. The last intake bolt all the way in the back is a royal PITA! Wrap your left arm with a couple of Ace bandages because most of the work is going to be with your left arm going all the way to the back, and there are many sharp things along the left side. It's a doable job, but painful, so have lots of beer and advil at the ready. Take your time and be patient. A lot of stuff has to come out to get to it.
Edit - if you are removing the transmission to service the clutch/IMSB, then I've heard it is a far easier job than going in from the top. Good luck!
Edit - if you are removing the transmission to service the clutch/IMSB, then I've heard it is a far easier job than going in from the top. Good luck!
I did mine without removing the bumper. I removed the mufflers, dropped the engine a few inches and stuck my arm all the way in there. Not fun and took me about three days too but had to get it done because mine had sprung a coolant leak.
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That was the thing. I did not remove my mufflers. So dropping the engine would have bowed out the bumper cap and outer heat shields. Removing the bumper cap and outer heat shields enabled me to drop the engine to the bottom without hitting anything.
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
That was the thing. I did not remove my mufflers. So dropping the engine would have bowed out the bumper cap and outer heat shields. Removing the bumper cap and outer heat shields enabled me to drop the engine to the bottom without hitting anything.
#12
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I just did mine while doing the IMS bearing. For the aft bolt (as viewed looking at the flywheel) I found a regular allen key (4mm I think) got in there better than an allen socket on a ratchet. To get enough leverage to break the torque I had to come in from the drivers side. I already had the muffler removed and I dropped the engine down a little further for this. That bolt was the absolute worst part of the job and probably took the majority of the time. There are some ground wires right next to the AOS, make sure they don't get caught underneath it when you install the new one.
#13
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You guys have my respect! I took out the gearbox to change the flywheel (from LWFW back to dual-mass), and figure I should replace the AOS since
it is visible without the gearbox. Even trying to undo the bellow clamps with a vice-grip made me almost broke the crank sensor nearby, and bruised my
fingers, so I gave up after an hour of trying. May be next clutch replacement time I´ll try again.
I was also planning to replace the RMS and IMSB, both the original RMS is bone dry and the IMSB turns out to be not replaceable without splitting the case.
So just the flywheel is replaced. I´m buttoning it back up this weekend.
it is visible without the gearbox. Even trying to undo the bellow clamps with a vice-grip made me almost broke the crank sensor nearby, and bruised my
fingers, so I gave up after an hour of trying. May be next clutch replacement time I´ll try again.
I was also planning to replace the RMS and IMSB, both the original RMS is bone dry and the IMSB turns out to be not replaceable without splitting the case.
So just the flywheel is replaced. I´m buttoning it back up this weekend.
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You can do it with much less disassembly than some writeups. You can do it in the dark. You can do it while everything is covered in slimy coolany from a failure. Just be careful not to pinch any wires putting it back together. The crank position sensor is back there and you'll hate yourself if you pinch that lil guy.
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^I think I can do it now....after I replaced the AOS 3 times. 2 times from the top and one time with the transmission removed. Agreed it's still not a walk in the park even with the transmission removed.
Last edited by Ahsai; 01-22-2018 at 08:53 PM.