Cracked Head - Need Help
#31
This is the 2nd porsche OP got this year. At the end of the day, if the 4500 engine is in good shape and they willing to provide warranty it for a year or 2 that's the best option. 18k car back on the road consider 4500 in losses OR sell the roller at 8k and that's 10k losses.
Repair the head is going to cost close to 4500 and cylinder will surely be more than that. Splitting the case to find out will cost money that you will then have to add on the 4500 if you find out to be the cylinder...
Money no object, call FSI and put a nice bulletproof engine in there. Given the option 4500 motor is as good as it gets if it is a good engine with some kind of guarantee.
#32
Nordschleife Master
I bought my second Porsche this year, a 2000 996 in October for $18K. I have spent some time and money updating plugs/coils and new coolant reservoir tank, as I had been battling a "Misfire Cylinder 1" check engine light code, in addition to leaking coolant. Those fixes still did not solve the problem, and the car began running rough upon start up. It had run rough once in a while before, but now it does it every time. I brought it to a local Porsche indy last week and he gave me bad news. Coolant is leaking into Cylinder 1. He says it's prob either a head gasket or most likely a cracked cylinder. He'd have to pull the engine to be 100% certain. I'm looking at a bill of between $7K-$10K in my estimation. He has a used engine with roughly 90K miles with IMS done, from one of his customers crashing their 996. He said he's selling it for $4,500.
Here's my dilemma.....I have a loan on the car, so I cannot sell it as a roller and pay off the loan immediately. I don't have $10K laying around to sink into this vehicle. I planned on budgeting $1500-$2000/annually for this car and i've spent close to that already on tools and parts. The mechanic said there is no temporary fix available. At this point, i'd either have to park it until the loan is down enough to sell it. Or I save up to replace the engine. Or pursue some other option.
I've read about products such as "K-Seal Pour and Go" that can repair cracked cylinder heads and stop the leak. Reviews online seem to show positive results, although the product is usually used in cheap beater cars that are on their last leg. I guess mine is on my last leg too, but it's not as cheap. I know something like this is certainly not ideal. But, has anyone used this and had success? If I could get the car to drive for another 10-15K miles, I'd be happy. Are there any other alternatives that I'm missing? I'm so frustrated with this vehicle that I don't even want to spend the money, because i think there's alot of other things lurking. I screwed myself and learned a very valuable lesson by not getting a PPI inspection done, as the car had good history and previous owners appeared to have spent the time and money to address things as they popped up.
If anyone has any ideas at all, please send them my way. I'm desperate!
Thanks
Here's my dilemma.....I have a loan on the car, so I cannot sell it as a roller and pay off the loan immediately. I don't have $10K laying around to sink into this vehicle. I planned on budgeting $1500-$2000/annually for this car and i've spent close to that already on tools and parts. The mechanic said there is no temporary fix available. At this point, i'd either have to park it until the loan is down enough to sell it. Or I save up to replace the engine. Or pursue some other option.
I've read about products such as "K-Seal Pour and Go" that can repair cracked cylinder heads and stop the leak. Reviews online seem to show positive results, although the product is usually used in cheap beater cars that are on their last leg. I guess mine is on my last leg too, but it's not as cheap. I know something like this is certainly not ideal. But, has anyone used this and had success? If I could get the car to drive for another 10-15K miles, I'd be happy. Are there any other alternatives that I'm missing? I'm so frustrated with this vehicle that I don't even want to spend the money, because i think there's alot of other things lurking. I screwed myself and learned a very valuable lesson by not getting a PPI inspection done, as the car had good history and previous owners appeared to have spent the time and money to address things as they popped up.
If anyone has any ideas at all, please send them my way. I'm desperate!
Thanks
Big question to answer - How much do you *love* this car? Do you love it enough to put another $10,000 into it? $28,000 is a lot of money for a little joy in life isn't it brotha? I feel your pain. You purchased what you thought would be a great deal to get back into another Porsche 911 only to get butt raped by someone that sold you a car that "needed NOTHING mechanically". Now, you're in it for $28,000. Why do you think many people set them on fire to claim the insurance? Ever had those thoughts? (Don't do it unless you enjoy jail time with bubba!)
Ok... here's my best advice... take a deep breath and repair the vehicle properly and don't look back! Of course, I wouldn't advise putting the $10K service on a high interest credit card or other high interest loan method. You might want to contact your local bank and request to consolidate the current loan that includes the cost of repair with a *new* low interest loan. Make sense? Don't put it on a 22% interest credit card! That's $$$ suicide! Now regarding the indy shop... ONLY service the car with this shop if and only if they'll provide a service guarantee/warranty on the 90K used motor AND installation. You may also want a written guarantee that other known wear issues with the used 90K M96 motor have been addressed. Remember, you want to protect your investment. You have $28,000 invested in this vehicle and can't take anymore risks. If they won't provide any type of written warranty agreement, then DON'T do the service, walk away regardless of the savings on the used motor. Remember, just because the IMS was replaced on the 90K motor, that doesn't protect you from the other 28 modes of M96 failure! Think it about it!!!! What if the 90K motor had a poor service history and this indy shop just removed the motor, installed just an IMS bearing and that's it... nothing more. How does that make you feel about it now? Could very well repeat history!
Waiting it out may also be a wise option until the dust settles. Don't give into the pressure. Sometimes these shops like to dangle carrots in front of our faces to see if we'll bite. The shop owner is like, "Oh sir... it's Porsche motor for ONLY $4500 sir! These motors cost more than $20,000 brand new! It's a great deal. I can't guarantee it will be here next week. We got lots of calls for a used Porsche M96 motors."
Remember, a fool and a sucker is born every minute in this world. All the best! I wish you well.
#33
Three Wheelin'
I am going to chime in.
How big is the loan on the car now? How much money can you put down towards the payoff?
If I was you, I would dump the car AS-IS for $5k-$7k, pay off the loan and try again later. Take the L in this situation and walk away.
You are in a pickle, and there are no easy solutions here. With bargain basement prices of the 996s, they seem like an amazing bargain. Some people end up getting lucky with awesome car for little money, some end up in a doo-doo. You didn't get lucky, so best option is to cut your losses and walk away.
How big is the loan on the car now? How much money can you put down towards the payoff?
If I was you, I would dump the car AS-IS for $5k-$7k, pay off the loan and try again later. Take the L in this situation and walk away.
You are in a pickle, and there are no easy solutions here. With bargain basement prices of the 996s, they seem like an amazing bargain. Some people end up getting lucky with awesome car for little money, some end up in a doo-doo. You didn't get lucky, so best option is to cut your losses and walk away.
#34
Agree with Kalash. They say the most expensive car you can get is a cheap German one. Trying not to sound snarky, but I think owning this car is a stretch for you. The repair & maintenance on these cars is too unpredictable. You might be able to work this one, but that doesn't mean it's not going to happen again. Maybe you can look into borrowing some money from family, sell this one as a roller, and move on. If you've got a credit card with a decent limit, maybe look into a balance transfer - it should get you a year or more interest free to pay it down.
#36
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by wyovino
You gotta love the internet. The OP isn't looking for fatherly financial advise. He has a problem and is looking for cost-effective technical recommendations.
#37
Banned
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I will say from having to do this repair on my car, it does not cost 4500 or whatever per bank to repair a cracked head and also not every cracked head is repairable. It all matters where it is cracked at. When my head cracked I found places that would do it at 1500. Although my head wasn't repairable do to the crack location. so I bought a used one. Also for people saying I wouldn't put a engine in w/o knowing that it has perfect health means nothing when it comes to a m96 engine. At any time things can go south with no warning. I am going to assume you're not mechanically inclined so I would advise putting a used engine in from a recycler that has some sort of warranty if installed by a business. If you can do the repair just buy a used head and replace it. No point in having a flawed head 'fixed' and to be put back on. These heads crack due to the manufacture process.If the head is tainted with poor processes then toss it. Now if it is a cracked cylinder by all means replace it with the 4500 dollar engine. Also since the shop that is doing the work is selling you the engine there should be a warranty behind it. Probably a 12k, 1yr. If the shop can't stand behind that guarantee then go somewhere else. Bc that is saying they can't trust their own work or product they're selling you.
GOOD LUCK!
GOOD LUCK!
#38
After following this thread and the more I think about it.... Any rebuild project I have embarked on has always cost me more than I thought by a whole bunch...so maybe the best advice is money is a problem is walk away....my boss once gave me great advice...."when you are in a hole, stop digging"
#41
Rennlist Member
#43
Rennlist Member
#45
Hi I have checked the coolant and oil frequently. I've seen no intermix of either one, and the shop confirmed there is no intermix in the oil. Originally, there was no smoke/coolant out of tail pipes, but that did develop fairly quickly.