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Not sure what the symptoms are - you may not have broken the clutch itself, but something else (like clutch fork, throwout bearing ...). Anyways, I assume you are going to do your own clutch - fairly easy process.
Mike the clutch pedal did feel slightly stiffer recently so I bled the slave a few days ago and I thought it had improved. Out on the track on the front straight at turn 1, I shifted down from 6th to 5th and the gears ground some to get it into 5th which I have never done before. The rest of the way around that lap, shifting became progressively harder (firmer shift lever pressure to get it into gear) then past turn 12, I lost engagement all together - pressing the gas rev'ed the engine freely (clutch pedal not pushed), coasted down the hill and out to the paddock and into my regular paddock parking spot... I had not noticed any slipping prior, engagement position/pedal travel/feel normal prior to this. Shifter feels fine and feels like trans is going into gear (I don't think its a shifter linkage problem). I can push and roll the car in gear (without pushing the clutch pedal). I can start the car in gear (with the clutch pedal not pushed) and the car will not move. I can start the car in neutral, push the clutch, but can't shift into gear as it grinds. (doesn't make sense to me). Pedal doesn't feel bad. Clutch reservoir level normal (manual slave).
I'm sorry, but that sounds pretty involved. If it was a fork issue, I don't think you'd be able to start car while in gear. Let us know what you find (pics also) if you don't mind sharing the horror.
I actually left the car with John B (mechanic) as he is very close to me and he helped me bring the car back from the track. Also don't mind having someone who I trust and actually knows what he is doing look at my car every few years.
Always sad though when I have a garage spot empty, but I will keep myself occupied with the Ferrari.
nz - I think the brakes are great. And I'd recommend it to anyone considering a big brake upgrade as an option for sure. Can't really comment much more than I have previously regarding how they work, on the street they should last forever, will have to see the durability on the track. But as RB says, new (or refurbished) rotors for these have become quite reasonable in price so not really a concern. If having a usable spare tire is a concern for you - these will be a problem. I've researched collapsible spares etc but there isn't one that will fit and also be of reasonable size once inflated. Ie there is a 19" cayenne or pannamera collapsible spare (for pccbs) that should work but (collapsible 18's won't fit - I have one..) once inflated, it's quite a bit larger in dia. I'm just planning on carrying a full size front spare when driving longer distances or to the track (We've had side wall cuts on track 'off''s that no tire goo would probably work on, and getting 19" replacement tires on short notice or on DE weekends is almost impossible - don't ask how I know... ).
Mike I've been avoiding calling John, I'll give him a call this week. I've been playing with the F car but it has also broken down, bad water pump - it developed a whine and bearings are gone, the pump was spitting out pieces of bearing/spacer material! (known fail item that requires a rebuild at every major service!! No wonder P cars of the time were more reliable in general. I have a better aftermarket one on order, should arrive tomorrow). When it rains, it pours!
oh yeah, I was also fussed about getting flat decked with the minimal clearance (can't get straps through the wheel) and my car is too low to put a strap on over the tire (my passenger rear actually rub slightly ie. no space, I don't have any eyes/rings on the frame like some guys do for trailering, I also know the jack points aren't very strong/good for putting hooks onto) - things I was pondering waiting for the truck to come get me from 4 hours away (much longer actually with traffic and border crossing)... I do keep tow hook eyes screwed into both my front and rear bumper (don't keep your tow eyes in your tool box in the paddock - another don't ask how I know point..). The tow truck driver was able to hold the car down with hooks on the tow eyes on both bumpers and a strap through the 'forks' on the wheel (without having to apply too much force on the wheel since both tow eyes/hooks could be used to secure). Not ideal but seemed okay in the end.
PIB993 was asking about an update on these brakes on the bird killing thread..
The rotors do run cooler, once in the paddock, the rotor are about 100 degrees C cooler than when I was running steel rotors. Callipers are about 20 degrees C cooler. No change in caliber paint/letters at all.
I am getting wear on the pads but I would estimate 2x longer pad life vs Plagid yellow on Giro disc. at the track. I do get some bake dust on the track, don't notice it on the street.
Not sure about rotor longevity yet.
I've gotten used to them and modulating/threshold braking is easy. The initial bite from high speeds - i.e. end of front straight at the Ridge slowing down from about 150mph - seems to use more pedal travel before the car starts to slow down. Don't seem to notice this anywhere else.
Car performs great overall and am very happy with the brakes. Get lots of comments and questions about them when people look at my car.
PIB993 was asking about an update on these brakes on the bird killing thread..
The rotors do run cooler, once in the paddock, the rotor are about 100 degrees C cooler than when I was running steel rotors. Calipers are about 20 degrees C cooler. No change in caliber paint/letters at all.
I am getting wear on the pads but I would estimate 2x longer pad life vs Plagid yellow on Giro disc. at the track. I do get some bake dust on the track, don't notice it on the street.
Not sure about rotor longevity yet.
I've gotten used to them and modulating/threshold braking is easy. The initial bite from high speeds - i.e. end of front straight at the Ridge slowing down from about 150mph - seems to use more pedal travel before the car starts to slow down. Don't seem to notice this anywhere else.
Car performs great overall and am very happy with the brakes. Get lots of comments and questions about them when people look at my car.
Hello RA,
Thanks for sharing you experience on RB-CCM kit. We have since successfully developed the sintered brake pads, not only it has higher COF, but can provide a more consistent brake torque (at elevated braking temp.), last longer, yet one of the wonderful features we have discovered, as we were conducting tests, is the pad transfer of layer can actually heal/repair the damage (pitted/rough surface) of a CCM rotors due to the carbon oxidation (overheat) which seems to be the only enemy that can put an end to a CCM rotor life, otherwise it would be an almost perfect brake disc that can last several times longer, lighter, no brake dust, never warp/crack like conventional iron rotors.
We look forward to having you try this hybrid compound (good for street and track), no need to switch, no squeak/dust on street, although not a full (~85%) power of a dedicated trck/race compound but it should satisfy most of the track oriented drivers.
09-03-2016, 09:28 PM
