Well, last weekend I finally got my car put back together after my myriad of winer projects. For those playing the home game, I had a series of leaks that I wanted to fix, including cam gaskets, timing chain gaskets, and puddling under my turbos when parked.

After some research on RL (and a few chats with several of you), I decided to install UMW's check valve kit to stop the oiling problem on the turbos, and thought my issues would be solved with a new oil filter. Not so.

I drove the car for 150 miles or so the first day but was a little alarmed that the oil level never registered on the gauge. I checked the oil level on the stick when I got home and it read half way, so that felt good. I then went in the house for dinner.

After coming back out a couple hours later, I had 3 pools under the car. W under each turbo, and one under the intake pipe on the driver's side. So I now realize that I have either a bad oil filter or a blown turbos.

I'm going to try another oil filter this weekend, but hold little hope. I talked to Kevin, and he's thinking my turbos are toast.

So, I now need to decide what level of work to be done...stage 1 or just straight rebuild. I'm leaning towards the rebuild, because I like originality, but who can argue with extra power?

 

Stage I is REALLY sweet!

 

Dumb question from a 993TT owner. What makes a car a stage 1? I assume its different turbo's but what else?

 

I went through this almost a year ago - went with protomotive hybrids w an ECU reflash. Cost a bit more but if you are already going in for a few $k on rebuilding your stock turbos, why not spend a bit more to give it a more power

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...rade-kits.html

 

Different aftermarket tuners use the Stage 1, 2 and 3 in various ways to describe various HP "upgrades" and to meaningfully define Stage 1, you would have to refer specifically to a given tuner's offering. In general terms, a Stage 1 is likely to include either just an ECU change (usually with aux oil cooler) as in the Factory 430HP kit, or Turbo upgrade + ECU + Aux Cooler +/- Cats, as in Factory 450HP K24 based kit, or say UMW's K16/24 GT1 hybrids with ??450HP. Stage 2 might include a more agressive hybrid turbo and ECU. UMW Stage 2 = K16/26 hybrids and might give 460-470HP. Others like RUF Turbo R also include some internals like cams where 490HP is likely. Promotive are active here too. Again, generally speaking, Stage 3 invariably will require major internal work, rods, cams, flame rings head sealing etc, getting very expensive exponentially as one goes above 500HP to 550 and beyond where intercooler issues become critical.

As one who has been to Stage 2 and back again, I would suggest you think very carefully about what you are looking to do with the car and what your real needs are. We know that Stock will always hold value better. A stock car is no slouch and few road driven 993TTs cars will ever be able to realy use or need more power. Sure, if you want straight line drag pace, OK. At the track, 100HP = 70Kgs. In other words, there are cheaper ways to go fast like weight reduction, suspension, aero etc. Also think carefully about heat and fuel. More power means more heat, and a greater risk to the engine if ambients are high or your fuel octane is suboptimal. I've learnt that in hot climates race gas becomes manditory to avoid detonation issues despite knock sensors and monotronic "protection". It all sounds tempting, but think carefully. Like going to war, its easy to start, hard to stop.

Sorry to be a wet blanket!

 

I would offer you really need to understand the source of the leaks before you spend more money... not that a power upgrade is a bad thing! But it if have issues outside of the turbos then they'll still be there after the upgrade.

Clean things off with loads of brake cleaner and towels to get things spotless (the oil creeps and gets blown everywhere making tracing a leak difficult) and then run the engine up to temp, ideally some place where you can see things from up above and down below and make sure your timing chain cover and cam cover gaskets are leak free. Also check the connection between the check valves themselves and the turbos - one of mine began to leak after a few thousand miles and needed to be resealed.

If you haven't got a leak when the engine is running try this test: get the engine good and hot and shut it off, remove both turbo sump drain plugs and see how much oil drains out over time. It should only be a small amount that comes out initially and then it should stop. If it continues to run out then either your check valves have stuck open (v v unlikely) or oil is being siphoned back through the scavenge lines.

What oil are you using?

 

I don't think you're being a wet blanket. I enjoy my car tremendously in stock form, and don't really think it needs more power. However, if I have to take it apart again, and the turbos need lots of work, it may be a financial wash. I also have to scope the cats and see if they're blocked up too. If they are, then that's another reason to upgrade too.

All in all, I'm a cheap b@stard, or I wouldn't do my own work...but I'm also **** and want it perfect too

 

Felix, that's the plan this weekend. If I can discern that it's something silly (ie easy), I'll definitely be a happy camper. Considering that one of the problems I went to fix is seemingly still as bad or worse, it makes me think that it is something I didn't address (like the turbos).

I'm using Wal-Mart 5w30...is that bad? Just kidding, I'm using Redline 10w40 currently, but I'm not sure what that will have to do with leaks. I'm thinking any oil is gonna leak from the puddles I've seen. Unless I'm missing something?

 

That oil is a little on the thin side - I think Mobil 1 15/50 or the Mobil 1 V Twin oil is what a lot of people in the US use. But the thinner oil shouldn't be the root cause of your problem, just something that might exacerbate it.

 

Scott, once you get thing sorted out, and I know you will, consider using the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50.

 

Try to be different around here...