BAM BA LAM

 

Ram Jam! Thing gone wild...but always ready. FYI, FGT's are referred to as gals so Black Betty was fitting.

 

TB,
It is impossible to prove you wrong! Here's some additional information that will help you understand the numbers.

I used Jeans data acquisition unit which was calibrated for use in the Middle East not North America. Several users couldn't believe the difference until we learned that difference in satellite communication creates a time difference albeit fractional. The way it was explained to me was the unit was reading the Mid East satellites not the North American ones.

My times were on pump gas 91 octane which was the low boost program of the Thielert ECU which would have been around 520 hp. The boost was .8-.9 bars at low program 1.1-1.2 bars on high. One needed to run 98 or better octane on high boost or face detonation.

Andial's dyno was also doing a fair amount of 944 GTR's 962's and 935's so I don't think the only reliable dyno is in germany.
You ignore the 1/4/ mile trap speeds, and the head to head track encounter, which you have to believe me because I was there. If you believe Ruf Ctr sports are 550 hp, and one pulls him two car lengths the then what would you conclude?
I've moved on to a new project but remember the spirited days when we shared information and of course opinions.
Should I turbo the FGT with the supercharger or without it?

 

Don't know how I have been drawn into this discussion but I have to correct some statements Jimmy.

I am not sure where you got the information from. I purchased this device in the US, here is a link to the post back then.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...p-junkies.html

Irrespectively, there is no such thing as devices calibrated for certain continents or satellites regardless, be it VBox, or DriftBox or AX22 or any other.. So I don't know who looked at the data but they are mistaken.

A miscalibrated GPS unit would give wrong data (long Gs or incorrect speed vs. gearing), wrong altitude and wrong location. Several US Rennlisters used it, DKnebes and Bill S. (who lives close to you I believe) among them, and everyone got accurate results. I also validated the data like I did for hundreds of runs..

This is the exact location of the runs that were made on 261 in CA.


As to the times, your 2 runs were almost identical at around 9.5 seconds. This is just sub-500 FWHP, the effect of higher octane can be offset by the downhill slope of 1.6%?


I am definitely not saying that the Andial 3.8TT has 500FWHP, however this particular car does, according to all the logs that I have. My guess is that the Thielert ECU was cr@p. I don’t know with the current FVD ECU how it performs, we can all find out through someone posting weight, gearing and a GPS acceleration run.

To the OP, sorry for the Off topic, I will be happy to delete this post if you would like me to.

 

The work is continuing, i.e. transmission, engine and 5th and 6th gearing change.

At the moment my thoughts body work, leave me to keeping the Andial clean and simple.

Matt white wrap with BBS E88 wheels. 10x19 rear and 8.5x19 front (285x30 and 245x35 tires

 

Getting them custom made?

Go at least 11.5 at rear.

 

After talking to Brembo, Andial and RUF extensively about your intended use we feel the front brakes as they are will be sufficient for your purpose and once the rotors are replaced and appropriate pad compounds selected and installed they should be excellent for you.

The rear brakes are a different matter. The rear brakes currently on your car are a mixture of parts not necessarily intended to work together but were the best solution at the time by Andial. You have stock original 993 Turbo rotors with Porsche Motorsport calipers. The rotors simply don’t have to size (diameter OR thickness) to act as a sufficient heat sink to shed the heat generated by hard braking at light speed without glazing the pads (causing a dangerous and underwear staining reduction in braking power) or overheating and warping the rotors (causing a dangerous and underwear staining reduction in steering control and braking power). An increase in the rotor size like the upgrade already performed at the front end is called for. This upgrade is further proved by the current condition of your rear brakes which clearly show signs of being badly overheated in the pads and the rotors. RUF and Brembo both believe an upgrade to brakes that match the ones mounted to the front is the best solution both in terms of braking power and safety as well as matching the braking characteristic established by the front brake kit. Normally I would say a rotor and pad change would be the solution but the rear calipers mounted to the car currently are a motorsport caliper that no one supports any more. Porsche does not have rebuild parts for them, Brembo doesn’t any either so rebuilding them is out of the question at this time. Brembo has the complete kit to match the front brakes available and parts will continue to be available for the foreseeable future so that is the option I would suggest. This kit includes new and much larger 345mm diameter by 28mm thick 2 piece rotors (available in either original drilled style or the newer slotted format). They will also paint them in Brembo/Porsche yellow for you as you requested (I will have the front calipers painted to match once the rears arrive).

 

Yes,

I also thinking about going wider in the rear..

295x30 or 305x30 rear tires

245x35 or 255x30 front tires

http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp

 

Adam, will you be using your car as a track car?

 

Track car, yes and no... mostly a autobahn/ weekend Porsche, the Andial is been prep for high-end speed of 200+ I might take to Nürburgring just for fun... but not often.

 

Adam,

Your car is 10 min. from my home. I will stop by and check it out. Cant wait to see it.

 

Take some photo's for me please.

 

The gears are on there way.

The Brembo rep emailed me an idea and I want to pass it on to you for your consideration. To restore your front brakes to good condition requires the replacement of the rotors, rotor hardware, pads and brake lines. This will be a parts price of about 1400$ plus shipping etc. This will get you back to the state of the art for 1990s technology. The rep suggested that considering you are upgrading to the proper rear brakes to match the fronts you might be interested in a recently available FURTHER upgrade of both the fronts and the rears to the latest monoblock construction (as used in the current Porsche Turbos, GT3s and Ferraris etc). The advantages in the rear are minor but include stiffer calipers that are none the less significantly lighter than the old style calipers as well having better feedback. The fronts are a much larger improvement over what you have now. The new monoblock calipers would be a SIX piston design just like on the Carrera GT etc. They are lighter and stronger with much better feedback than even the calipers you have now. These would not be a necessity but would be an improvement. They are willing to price match the rear set and give you a deal on the front set. The price for the front brake kit would be about 3800$.

 

Your car is at Grand Sport Auto, a new garage a couple hours from me. Dave Laing there is a solid porsche mechanic but I ended up sending my car 7 hours away to Kelly Moss Motorsports for an engine rebuild. They think outside the box from years of racing 911's. For instance, I wanted to put an external cooler on my transmission for longevity. They offered to consider leaving it alone till it wore out. If it ever does, w/ adapters we'll put in a 996 box as it's much better built than a 993 unit. Regarding your brakes, I'd call Jeff Stone at Kelly Moss and get his opinion. His knowledge base from racing 993t's, 996's, and now 997's in ALMS is unreal. IME, those monoblocks are quite large and limit the kinds of rims your can run. Congrats on your great looking car

 

I stopped by the RUF shop today ( Saturday) with my camera but they were closed. Ill have to drop by between 9-5 M-F.