Brake Upgrade???
#1
Why do I feel so left out!
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Brake Upgrade???
Hi Guys,
Been searching and looking for brake upgradesfor my TT.
Have been reading lots about Fluid Flow, Surface area, and Bias - so figure the best way would be to go with a "package" Ppl in the know say that 996 CupCar stuff all round (Calipers and Rotors) are the best way to go - but am happy to listen to others here....
I remember a thread recentlythat rubbished StopTech - until the Pres stood up to say something. Not sure about if they are supported in AU - so would prefer to stick to Brembo/Porsche for ease of replacement...
My main issue is wear AND stopping...
I will soon be on to my 3rd set of front rotors this year - I run Pagid Blacks F&R as pads and have tried ducting - still running out of brakes after 15 mins and wearing like CRAZY - any thoughts??? FLAME AWAY!!
Simon.
Been searching and looking for brake upgradesfor my TT.
Have been reading lots about Fluid Flow, Surface area, and Bias - so figure the best way would be to go with a "package" Ppl in the know say that 996 CupCar stuff all round (Calipers and Rotors) are the best way to go - but am happy to listen to others here....
I remember a thread recentlythat rubbished StopTech - until the Pres stood up to say something. Not sure about if they are supported in AU - so would prefer to stick to Brembo/Porsche for ease of replacement...
My main issue is wear AND stopping...
I will soon be on to my 3rd set of front rotors this year - I run Pagid Blacks F&R as pads and have tried ducting - still running out of brakes after 15 mins and wearing like CRAZY - any thoughts??? FLAME AWAY!!
Simon.
#2
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Simon, fading in 15 minutes cannot be brake hardware (assuming in good condition) related even with stock cooling, unless you have higher temps that we do?
I would first look into the brake oil you are using and presence of air in the system. Doing a proper bleed job on the 4WD cars has a certain methodology that few (dealers) out there use or know, I learnt it after quite a bit of frustration too at my braking system.
Then you might want to check leaking hardware components.
Your solution might be much cheaper than going for expensive brake systems. Try it first.
Cheers
I would first look into the brake oil you are using and presence of air in the system. Doing a proper bleed job on the 4WD cars has a certain methodology that few (dealers) out there use or know, I learnt it after quite a bit of frustration too at my braking system.
Then you might want to check leaking hardware components.
Your solution might be much cheaper than going for expensive brake systems. Try it first.
Cheers
#3
To reinforce Jean's comments-- I have seen standard brakes out perform much bigger brakes--simply because the balance was right. Admittedly this was on much lighter 2 WD 993TT .The Cup brakes are relatively cheap upgrade and effective enough -- there is a theory of being overbraked-- hard to believe possible on full weight TT. My other thought is to go to Pagid yellow's-- I too have run out of brakes in 15 minutes( not pagids) and putting yellows back in solved the problem.They also lasted a long time and were very easy on the discs .I would definately try before changing whole system. Would be most interested in report back if you try them.
What brake fluid are you using?
What brake fluid are you using?
#4
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What brake fluid are you using? I use Castrol SRF; best stuff out there as far as I can tell, and lasts forever (no need to bleed for over a year!).
Which Pagid Blacks are you using, they have the "S" and the RS14 blacks; hopefully you are using the latter! RS14s or RS29s are what you want.
How many track miles (or track days) are you getting out of a set of rotors? How are you determining they need to be replaced?
Like others have said, the stock setup with the proper fluid and pads is pretty stout.
Which Pagid Blacks are you using, they have the "S" and the RS14 blacks; hopefully you are using the latter! RS14s or RS29s are what you want.
How many track miles (or track days) are you getting out of a set of rotors? How are you determining they need to be replaced?
Like others have said, the stock setup with the proper fluid and pads is pretty stout.
#5
Why do I feel so left out!
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Hi Jean, Red and Pete,
Let me clarify a few things:
Car is FULL weight street (!) car- approx 1400kg (ok even more with me in it!)
MPSC
RS 14s
Castrol SRF
Its not so much as brake fade - it doesn't feel like that - more so the cracking of the cross drilling - which is leading to premature rotor wear.... which is leading to premature wallet wear..
I am able to activate ABS in some situations - and others the pedal has a long travel - - still pulls up - but would lke to see more retardation (this is stopping from redline in 5th (200+km/h) - down to a 2nd gear corner and then a short straight into another 2nd gear corner)
I have used the car for approx 6 track days and 3 comp events - (track days = 1/2 hour x 6 sessions per day)blasts and the comp events are 2 x 20 mins practices and 4 timed session (usually 6 laps)
I just dont feel the CONFIDENCE now that I am going faster and faster.... not sure that bigger brakes will help...
thanks
Simon
Let me clarify a few things:
Car is FULL weight street (!) car- approx 1400kg (ok even more with me in it!)
MPSC
RS 14s
Castrol SRF
Its not so much as brake fade - it doesn't feel like that - more so the cracking of the cross drilling - which is leading to premature rotor wear.... which is leading to premature wallet wear..
I am able to activate ABS in some situations - and others the pedal has a long travel - - still pulls up - but would lke to see more retardation (this is stopping from redline in 5th (200+km/h) - down to a 2nd gear corner and then a short straight into another 2nd gear corner)
I have used the car for approx 6 track days and 3 comp events - (track days = 1/2 hour x 6 sessions per day)blasts and the comp events are 2 x 20 mins practices and 4 timed session (usually 6 laps)
I just dont feel the CONFIDENCE now that I am going faster and faster.... not sure that bigger brakes will help...
thanks
Simon
#6
RL Technical Advisor
Hi Simon:
IMHO, the main reason why these cars suffer some front rotor/pad wear issues is due to the heavy front brake bias and thats exacerbated by the aggressive RS-14 pads you use.
We cure this problem with the installation of the somewhat rare RS rear calipers (bigger pistons) and sometimes, Orange pads up front. These measures do the trick every time.
IMHO, the main reason why these cars suffer some front rotor/pad wear issues is due to the heavy front brake bias and thats exacerbated by the aggressive RS-14 pads you use.
We cure this problem with the installation of the somewhat rare RS rear calipers (bigger pistons) and sometimes, Orange pads up front. These measures do the trick every time.
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Originally Posted by Jay993turbo
Steve,
Are there any downsides to installing RS rear calipers on a stock 993tt brake system?
Are there any downsides to installing RS rear calipers on a stock 993tt brake system?
#9
Originally Posted by chris walrod
The only downside I have experienced since adding RS rears is that you have to watch the trail braking -- at least in my case anyhow I tend to trail brake more than I should, just habits of a pushy car, I guess..
Did you notice a softer pedal since the RS rears?
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Originally Posted by Jay993turbo
Chris,
Did you notice a softer pedal since the RS rears?
Did you notice a softer pedal since the RS rears?
#12
RL Technical Advisor
Originally Posted by Jay993turbo
Steve,
Are there any downsides to installing RS rear calipers on a stock 993tt brake system?
Are there any downsides to installing RS rear calipers on a stock 993tt brake system?
Hi Jay:
Nossir, aside from being careful about trail braking until you get used to it.
The car's nose doesn't dive as much and the car's attitude under braking is flatter when the rear brakes are performing more work.
I have not felt any difference in pedal feel.
#14
I'm having a similar issue to Boost Crazy, though not so severe. I don't want to do a brake upgrade. What Pagid pad combination do you recommend? I've tried orange front and rear, now running black front, orange rear. Have not tried yellows yet.
#15
Why do I feel so left out!
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Hi Steve,
Thanks for your advice - but i am also trying to move away from CROSS DRILLED rotors as I "think" they are half of my issue... The cracks are just too common - both on front and rear...
I dont *****-foot around - I USE my brakes - I would just like:
1 - a more cost effective solution than 2 sets of rotors per year.
2 - a little more retardation....we can always have better brakes.... right??
My thoughts (and am happy to be proven wrong) are that with a Bigger caliper/rotor combo I get 4 things:
1 - Bigger heat sink
2 - Large pad area
3 - Larger "lever" (as the caliper is further away from the hub - the more the effort decreases to slow it.)
4 - True 2 piece floaters... I can then replace rotors and not hats (therfore being cheaper in the long run.
As I said I want to do a fair bit of research before I pull the trigger so any further suggestions most welcomed.
Simon.
Thanks for your advice - but i am also trying to move away from CROSS DRILLED rotors as I "think" they are half of my issue... The cracks are just too common - both on front and rear...
I dont *****-foot around - I USE my brakes - I would just like:
1 - a more cost effective solution than 2 sets of rotors per year.
2 - a little more retardation....we can always have better brakes.... right??
My thoughts (and am happy to be proven wrong) are that with a Bigger caliper/rotor combo I get 4 things:
1 - Bigger heat sink
2 - Large pad area
3 - Larger "lever" (as the caliper is further away from the hub - the more the effort decreases to slow it.)
4 - True 2 piece floaters... I can then replace rotors and not hats (therfore being cheaper in the long run.
As I said I want to do a fair bit of research before I pull the trigger so any further suggestions most welcomed.
Simon.