Engine Leakdown #'s?
#2
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0 to 6%, (3 and 4% being the norm lately). 7, 8% leans towards guides with issues. 9 thru 12 requires pulling the check book out..
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If the leakdown %s are low on a PPI, fine. Deal goes through. Everyone's happy about the sale.
Trying to figure out the next step as I have a PPI with a leakdown next week.
What would you do as a buyer on a borderline or high % ? Would you insist on rebuild, or price reduction to account fully for one? Whatever the mechanic recommends having done next and use that estimate to negotiate the price? Is there a number that's going to be too high that you would walk away from the car even if the rebuild can be done?
Trying to figure out the next step as I have a PPI with a leakdown next week.
What would you do as a buyer on a borderline or high % ? Would you insist on rebuild, or price reduction to account fully for one? Whatever the mechanic recommends having done next and use that estimate to negotiate the price? Is there a number that's going to be too high that you would walk away from the car even if the rebuild can be done?
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#8
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Don't have the current owner fix the problem, he'll have no incentive to do it properly. I'd find another car with a good ppi, but a price reduction in the amount that you independently find to be the repair cost is also an option.
#9
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Originally Posted by 911/Q45
Don't have the current owner fix the problem, he'll have no incentive to do it properly.
In my situation, we found an independent mechanic who will be doing the PPI, who has not worked with the seller in the past. I was thinking if anything wrong is found to have the PPI mechanic give a price quote. And then, if there is something that can be done, to have the same PPI mechanic do it, or to discuss a price reduction.
Do you suggest that I would need to find another mechanic to do the remedy after the fist mechanic does the PPI?
I figure this first mechanic would have the incentive to find faults that he could fix, and then fix it because he would get paid for the work.
Now, I am all the way across the country from the car and the seller and mechanic, and if you are thinking that the mechanic think he'll never see me again and skimps on the work....I would be smarter to take a price reduction and have work done near me after I take possession, right?
It seems now, as I get closer to the crunch time, that "do a PPI and decide on the car" is not as straight forward as it seemed....what would constitute a "MAJOR" problem rendering the deal off? Do I also need to get a preliminary quote from a local mechanic to discuss price reductions on any work needed after the PPI? Questions and questions......
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Originally Posted by 911/Q45
Way across the country and bad ppi=walk away from this one.
It is up to me to have to decide what constitutes too "bad...." maybe the mechanic can also chime in on his personal take on it after the PPI.
#13
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Originally Posted by Kevin
Walk if its over 4%.. Over means 5 and up..
It would not be worth taking a $$$$ reduction and then have the work done in Seattle area by you, when it comes out here? I mean, if I already owned the car and I do a leakdown and the results are not good, what would I need to spend to make it right?
I was thinking of your shop as the local place to remedy a car on the fence, anyway....maybe I will check with you when I actually have PPI and leakdown results.
Another question: Are both compression and leakdown expressed in percentages?
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I'm going to be blunt with my following statement.. There are very few 993TT out there that will pass my PPI without spending more than 5K to fix issues. And we are talking about "NOT" cracking the engine open.
I guess I am jaded, and my vision is blurred with all of the calls and email that I get from people that own these cars asking for help and advice when there car of their dreams isn't running right. And worse listening to the stories of the "after purchase"
These cars have 10 years plus on the clocks and we need to pay more money for clean ones and walk away with questionable histories and work schedules. These cars require alot of cash to fix.. From replacing the tranny mainshaft on early Twins to topend overhauls.. Go and price a clutch and hydraulic lifter repair..
Most of the owners that visit Rennlist can share there repair histories over the years..
If I was to buy a 993TT today, half the time is finding a good wrench that knows these cars.. A PPI should also include dragging the car to a qualified bodyshop also..
I guess I am jaded, and my vision is blurred with all of the calls and email that I get from people that own these cars asking for help and advice when there car of their dreams isn't running right. And worse listening to the stories of the "after purchase"
These cars have 10 years plus on the clocks and we need to pay more money for clean ones and walk away with questionable histories and work schedules. These cars require alot of cash to fix.. From replacing the tranny mainshaft on early Twins to topend overhauls.. Go and price a clutch and hydraulic lifter repair..
Most of the owners that visit Rennlist can share there repair histories over the years..
If I was to buy a 993TT today, half the time is finding a good wrench that knows these cars.. A PPI should also include dragging the car to a qualified bodyshop also..
#15
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The message here, which is well taken, is that I will need to be realistic about provisional plans to rehab a less than stellar TT. We'll see what PPI results say when they come back.