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Is a K16/24 hybrid, ECU, 5-Bar Upgrade a Significantly Noticible Difference?

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Old 03-24-2006, 12:30 PM
  #16  
viperbob
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Originally Posted by Craig Trask
I know the guys selling this stuff will say ABSOLUTELY!, but it's only a 10%-15% increase in hp.
It is NOT a 10-15% increase if done properly. I will for the last time state that you can get over 500 HP out of the car with this setup. I will again endure the non- believers but that is OK. Here again is a guy with this setup in St. Louis. Dyno was about 520 at the crank on his local dyno. https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ighlight=cliff So talk with Cliff if you want to talk with a user with this setup. His last comment to me was that he can not believe they let a guy like him drive a car with that much power.

So no messing with numbers, yada yada yada... I did several in CA and got 520-550 HP every time on the dyno. A couple of other folks that don't come back too often (CJ for one) also got these results again on different dynos. And the area under the curve stuff on the dyno I will not even get into. These cars are freaking fast, instant throttle response, and more torque than you can imagine. So I do not attempt to second guess what other tuners do, how much they charge, or anything else. I can just tell you from again real world experiences.
Old 03-24-2006, 12:35 PM
  #17  
Rob 97 993c2
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Im also interested in the difference between the system outlined here, basically a stage 1 hybrid setup versus a Ruf TurboR - anyone drive both? How much better/different is the Ruf setup?

I do agree that the 993tt platform is too heavy and not a good starting point for a racecar. I interesting in finding the best hp upgrade, without going nuts, for street and some DE.
Old 03-24-2006, 01:05 PM
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bigimp65
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with the above mentioned mods,(again by po), my car dyno at around 520 crank and something around 460ish rerar wheel, and i have the dyno print outs to prove it
Old 03-24-2006, 01:20 PM
  #19  
Kevin
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Folks we are mixing up 3 different tuning kits of mine in this topic..

You can't compare a TurboR upgrade that includes a topend with camshafts. If you were to take the camshafts out of the mix you would have my Stage 2 kit..

For the street the Stage 1 kit is hard to beat. The Stage 2 Kit, which is supplied with my Stage 2 Z/C turbochargers is the next step up in the progression of power without adding camshafts.. Stage 3 requires camshafts and basically a topend overhaul..
Old 03-24-2006, 02:04 PM
  #20  
AndyT
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For 8k you get ??
I am thinking it is :

Rebuild you existing turbos (GT1 style)
ECU reprogram yours
5 FBR ?

Any cats in there ?

Meow
Old 03-24-2006, 02:32 PM
  #21  
bigimp65
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kevin, i'm not even 100% on exactly what turbos i have in my car, can you shed some light for me...po was tjnif993t?
Old 03-24-2006, 03:43 PM
  #22  
Kevin
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Stage 2 Zero Clearanced..
Old 03-24-2006, 03:45 PM
  #23  
viperbob
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I was describing hybrid Stage 2 ZC'd with Protomotive software, boost controller, adjustable 5 bar FPR, and Fabspeed muffler bypass pipes.
Old 03-24-2006, 04:39 PM
  #24  
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Don't start the mods. The addiction is too strong and never ending.
Old 03-24-2006, 05:12 PM
  #25  
Acropora
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I'd be nice to compare the Protomotive dyno sheet to Kevin's ECU. Supposedly the Motronic one is better wrspt. engine safety.
Old 03-24-2006, 05:19 PM
  #26  
Kevin
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AndyT, look at this..

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...7&page=4&pp=15
Old 03-24-2006, 05:45 PM
  #27  
AndyT
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Thank you Kevin.
Old 03-24-2006, 11:05 PM
  #28  
pstoppani
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I have Kevin's Stage 1 (GT1) with his 100 cell cats and Cargraphic muffler and really enjoy it for a daily driver and occasional track car. Definitely noticeable and whenever I'm in doubt of my butt dyno, I just look at the boost gauge as it gits 1.2 bar

I may do Stage 2 eventually though
Old 03-24-2006, 11:09 PM
  #29  
Acropora
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What's the point of stage 3 when the stage 2 programming limits output due to concerns about bending a rod?
Old 03-24-2006, 11:39 PM
  #30  
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Stage 3 comes into play when someone want's more power. One must also include 993TT that are coming apart for valve guide replacement. At that point one can access the rods without splitting the engine case.


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