Basal Skull

Well, if you read one of my posts a few weeks ago, I broke a suspension part recently...and...after reading and rereading probably every single post on suspension upgrades, I couldn't restrain myself....So, I got these. Pretty cool, like night and day compared to my old H&R coil overs, I'm going to have lots of fun playing with them. I have the rear reservoirs mounted in the back but am still sort of able to use the seat....

Moton Clubsport 993 Twin Turbo
Smart Racing Needle Bearing
Moton Porsche Swaybar Bracket
Racer's Group Front Monoball Camber Plates
Racer's Group Rear Monoball Camber Plates
H&R custom race spring 125lb Tender Spring Front
H&R custom race spring 200lb Tender Spring Rear
H&R custom race 6" 450lb Front Spring
H&R custom race 8" 650lb Rear Spring
FVD Front Strut Bar $250

Jean

Good choice Basal Skull, you will love them.
Need to make sure you get them properly setup, either the place you bought them from, or contact Moton in Netherlands, they sent me once the full instructions. You will be amazed at the different handling characteristics that they give you.
Enjoy.

Basal Skull

Thanx for the tip Jean. Do you or anyone have any 'rule of thumbs' in terms of which way the compression or rebound should be adjusted for certain ride characteristics? Difference in front vs rears settings? Obviously everything is also affected by the spring rates chosen. Or is it just changing things slowly until one feels things are right - there are a heck of alot of combinations with all the settings available....is stiffer rebound (+) mean that it takes more force for the shock to reextend or the shock extends with more force?

Ryojo

mjims

Looks Good, I like the way you can adjust everything really easiliy.

My PSS9's are a real pain to adjust, the 'click' for adjustment is almost non-existant and then you have to be ultra careful not to re-adjust them by accident when putting the dust covers back on.

Can you adjust both Compression and Rebound with the motons remote adjusters?

How much do they cost? they look very expensive compared to the PSS9's.

Great post.

Jean

Ryojo,

Normally the place where you buy the suspension should do that for you, it is in fact the main qualifier for choosing the shop where you are buying from, more than price of the hardware IMO.

I wouldn't mind rebuilding an engine myself, but wouldn't setup my suspension on my own. It is through experience and a lot of trial and error and testing on the track. Now I have developped a better feel of the car and can change somewhat the settings to better fit my needs on the street.

There is quite a bit of info on the board here about the best way to setup for compression and rebound, here is a thread with excellent information that was posted lately.
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/232674-shock-setup-from-gsum-thread.html

I will also try to find the instructions sent out to me by Moton. For the street, with Moton and your spring rates, I would go with the softest.

I would still strongly recommend that you get it setup by the best shop you know of.
Please PM your email address.
Jean

Jean

Jim,

Only the compression is adjusted from the canisters. The rebound is adjusted from the top of the shocks themselves. The clicks are very noticeable and easy to adjust. I am not sure about the price in the US or UK, but they were not that much more than PSS9s if I recall correctly.

Nice avatar!!

Ryojo the suggested beginning settings are Compression: 2 Fr and rear , Rebound: 3 Fr and rear. Softest being zero (clockwise) and stiff being 6 (counterclockwise).

Geoffrey

Don't forget that you need to ensure that the nitrogen pressures are set properly and maintained on a regular basis.

viperbob

This is true. One of the things that I found VERY nice about the Motons is that they hardly loose any pressure. They are just a great unit for the track but hold up great on the street.... I used an initial pressure of 190 rear and 185 front for my Moton customers.

You are going to need a special little gauge to adjust the pressure. As the valve for the cannister is just a schrader setup, if you just try and use a tire chuck, when you release the chuck from the valve, most of the pressure will come out before the valve closes (the volume of nitrogen in the shock is EXTREMELY small so any tiny loose greatly effects the pressure). Many places sell the gauge now. The last one I got was a Penske unit that I paid like $80.

Basal Skull

Thanx for all the input. Jean you have a PM and thanx for the link.
Jim
The Motons themselves are not much more than PSS9's - I live in Vancouver British Columbia but bought and installed in a shop in Washington State.
The Motons were 3300 USD but you need main and tender springs for each shock which cost me between 50 and 70 USD each. And if you need camber plates like I did you need those as well, front strut bar for mounting canisters, etc. So, things add up pretty quick.....

Ryojo

Acropora

If one plans to track their car is there any reason at all to go pss-9's instead of motons?

Rob 97 993c2

Acropora- i debated this last year when Motons were recommended over pss-9. Most of the input i received, including from ViperBob, was that the pss-9 where better as duel-purpose for track and street and the Motons were more extreme. Also, i was told (no personal experience) that the Motons needed more frequent adjustment and were just less practical for a dual purpose street/track. So, i went with the pss-9 as i dont want to constantly think about adjusting my suspension and dont have the ability to do so myself.
Im happy with them and i rarely change the settings.

Acropora

Considering Steve at rennsport? says Motons are worth 3-5 secs minimum over pss-9's I wish I'd gone Motons.

viperbob

Motons vs. PSS9s is up to the individual driver. How much you track and what you want to get out of your car is up to you. The Motons are 1000% better on the track than PSS9s when driven by the right person. For most folks, PSS9s are a good compromise for reasonable track, and good street. The downside is that Motons are more $$$ and there is the more harsh ride on the street (monoballs F&R and the lower rear mount). For me personally, I never had an issue with the Motons on the street. Even with 800/1200 springs. On the track with the power I was putting out, they were spectalular when driven with slicks. Of course again to get the full benefit you need to know and understand how to use the double adjustment capability as well as paying attention to the pressures. Not an install and forget item.

Jean

One of the main reasons I went with Moton is because they require less maintenance (revalving etc..)than others, mainly PSS9s, being that I don't have dealers locally. Any DA suspension will require more experience to setup properly than a single adjustable, not the Moton in particular. A bit harsh on the street (800/1000lbs) but I would have bought a 996 if I wanted to feel like in a Cadillac

viperbob

If indeed your car has all of the other goodies (tires, sway bars, etc, etc, OH and a driver capable of achieving that extra time) then yes Motons will be faster. If not, or if they are set up by the wrong person, never adjusted, etc then you may actually be slower than PSS9s and you will not be happy with them on the street. As a general statement of being fast for everyone, no. For a competent driver with a good setup, then probably yes.

Also Rob, you drive you car in Manhattan with some interesting roads, and the tracks you attend have some bumpiness (with Spring frost heaves). It sounds like you are getting faster, but unless you are closing in on 1:00 times at LimeRock I would think the PSS9s are still Ok.