AF (air/fuel) meters....any recommendations?
#1
Three Wheelin'
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I've seen the MoTec PLM ($1,200), and the Innovate LM-1 ($350). Since our engines' exhaust do not mix, ie, each side has its own exhaust, I will need TWO to get AF ratios for both sides.
Anybody know if there is a decent unit with two outputs or any other AF meter worthy of concideration?
thanks, Jaime
Anybody know if there is a decent unit with two outputs or any other AF meter worthy of concideration?
thanks, Jaime
#2
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Go with the Innovative LM-1. You can data log and add a aux box for more sensor inputs if you like. With the aux box you can log EGT's with a clamp on style sensor.
I would not be concerned about running one wide band. Do you testing and adjusting then swap sides to confirm that all is equal. It would be very unlikely that the banks will vary by much.
I would not be concerned about running one wide band. Do you testing and adjusting then swap sides to confirm that all is equal. It would be very unlikely that the banks will vary by much.
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Jaime, the Motec is a very fine piece of art, solid equipment, but it might be overkill. In view of the price difference I would definitely go with the LM1, unless you are a pro and this is a work tool.
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The LM-1 works great.
Another unit to look into is the PLX if you only need to watch the ratios. They have a full data logging unit but also cheaper options for the display only. http://www.plxdevices.com/
Another unit to look into is the PLX if you only need to watch the ratios. They have a full data logging unit but also cheaper options for the display only. http://www.plxdevices.com/
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If you want something that works well and is inexpensive then Link make a unit that would only set you back $70-100USD plus freight. I have one installed in my RUF. I have T'd off the factory O2 and have a plug on it so I can remove. It Jams/sits nicely between factory ash/money tray so I can put it in and take it out in a couple of seconds.
I also have a boost gauge next to it that also can be removed. (Waiting for my pod to be made)
I'll take a photo and post if your interested.
I also have a boost gauge next to it that also can be removed. (Waiting for my pod to be made)
I'll take a photo and post if your interested.
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#9
Three Wheelin'
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Thanks guys....I purchased two Innovate stand-alone model 3767. One will be for left 3 cylinders, and the other for the right.
I'm suppose to be getting my exhaust from Swain tech. in the next 7 days or so. The whole thing ceramic coated, including the turbo housings. My exhaust will feature Kevin's stage two, with his 130mm, 100cell CATS, no mufflers!
I hope my recent Ruf ecu/cams like what they will be seeing/feeling soon. Together with 93 octane fuel it's gotta rock! I think I'll have the fastest Porsche cab in town.
Jaime
I'm suppose to be getting my exhaust from Swain tech. in the next 7 days or so. The whole thing ceramic coated, including the turbo housings. My exhaust will feature Kevin's stage two, with his 130mm, 100cell CATS, no mufflers!
I hope my recent Ruf ecu/cams like what they will be seeing/feeling soon. Together with 93 octane fuel it's gotta rock! I think I'll have the fastest Porsche cab in town.
Jaime
#10
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Originally Posted by sonny1
Daniel,
if it uses the factory sensor,it is not a Wide band.,cheers,Sonny.
if it uses the factory sensor,it is not a Wide band.,cheers,Sonny.
For a race car sure go wide band and expensive for accuracy. For a road car and peace of mind this is a good option in my opinion.
While talking of O2 sensors I will share some experience we had with the race car.
We found that the 3 wire sensors (third wire being for the heater in the O2 sensor) that once the exhaust got very hot (race track conditions) that with the heater still on, the O2 sensor started reading lean in error. We confirmed this by also having a tail pipe wide band sensor installed temporarily. What we did was put an on/off switch on the heater wire and after the first lap we switched it off to ensure accurate reading throughout the race.
When the sensors are cold they do not read accurately so the heater wire is used to bring them up to temp quickly. This is for road use. They also generally install the sensors close to the turbo to also assist them coming to temp quickly. It is hard to overheat them during road use so this is fine.
Moving the sensor as far away from the turbo is best for a racecar setup and for accuracy.
I am not pretending to be an expert on the subject but thought I would share some experiences.
#11
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Thanks for the info Dan. Innovate's website has video tutorials on where and how to install their products. One thing's for sure is that the wide band 02 sensor should be at least 6-8 inches away from the turbo's and before the CATs. If you have to place it close to the turbos they actually sell a heat-sink deal which will decrease the heat. I noted our cars have a plug at the collector, just past the turbo so I purchased these heat sinks to help with the hot exhaust.....especially since it's all going to be ceramic coated-don't want to fry the O2 sensor.
Jaime
Jaime