Before and after dyno of my K24's
#1
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Before and after dyno of my K24's
The only difference between these before and after dynos is that I upgraded the compressor wheel from stock K24 to a super 60 T3 wheel. The company that did the work charged me $600.00 total. They CNC the compressor housing and rebalanced the assembly. My K24's were pretty new with only 3,000-5,000 miles on them.
More good stuff to follow!
More good stuff to follow!
Last edited by K24madness; 05-09-2005 at 09:35 PM.
#5
Good stuff although I'm really concerned about bending a rod like Toby did. ViperBob has been pretty lucky so far however, lol...
Of course you might get a fatter curve starting around 3K just using the k16hybrid turbos w/ Gunter ECU, 100 cell cats, and a gutted stock muffler.
Of course you might get a fatter curve starting around 3K just using the k16hybrid turbos w/ Gunter ECU, 100 cell cats, and a gutted stock muffler.
Last edited by Acropora; 05-09-2005 at 07:21 PM.
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Originally Posted by Acropora
I'm really concerned about bending a rod like Toby did. ViperBob has been pretty lucky so far however, lol...
No Fear!!!
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Originally Posted by Woodster
please advise:
gasoline octane?
boost pressure?
adjustable boost controller or ecu controlling boost?
exhaust system?
thanks for the info!!
m.k.
gasoline octane?
boost pressure?
adjustable boost controller or ecu controlling boost?
exhaust system?
thanks for the info!!
m.k.
1.1 bar before 1.2 bar after
Greddy profec A boost controller
SCARGO modified mufflers
No Cats
SCARGO intake splitter
SCARGO Ported intake
SCARGO Oversize throttle body.
ANDIAL IC
CRANE CDI Ignition
IK 22 spark plugs
PROTOMOTIVE 600 HP Software.
Extra beefy clutch.
New injectors on the way so stay tuned!!
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#8
Ported K16 housings and clipped turbine wheels will keep ahead of the K24's with a stock engine. If one had a camshaft change or displacement change the K24's will pull ahead at 5800RPM's however, the K16 equipted car will be shifting faster and pulling ahead of you.. It would be nice to see it on a 4X Mustang dyno vs a Dynojet.
K24 mentioned that his turbochargers were not rebuilt. Most 993TT turbochargers are in need of being rebuilt. K24's had the new wheel installed in his housings and rotating assy balanced only. A word of caution.. The stock backplate will eventually crack due to the size of the compressor wheel.
K24 mentioned that his turbochargers were not rebuilt. Most 993TT turbochargers are in need of being rebuilt. K24's had the new wheel installed in his housings and rotating assy balanced only. A word of caution.. The stock backplate will eventually crack due to the size of the compressor wheel.
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I will have the mustang 4wd dyno results soon. Thats we will tune the fuel curve. I am curious about your concerns of the backing plate. You run your stage 3 (50 mm inducer bore) compressor on a stock backing plate.
FWIW another 2 cars using stock backing plate and similar compressor have been going strong without any issues (one car 3+ years the other 1.3 years)
Time will tell. Based on what I have seen I feel confident!
FWIW another 2 cars using stock backing plate and similar compressor have been going strong without any issues (one car 3+ years the other 1.3 years)
Time will tell. Based on what I have seen I feel confident!
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The 2 other 993tt's that run these numbers say otherwise. Both cars have been in service a long time. Todd at protomotive has given me a guideline that I plan to stay within.
Kevin not sure why you discount other respected peoples experance. Both SCARGO and PROTOMOTIVE have done lots of tt's. As you know Chads car (same rods) did not bend rods until after 650fp at the wheels on the same dyno.
IF it so happens I happen to be the unlucky one the I will deal with it accordily. Since I can do the work myself its not a big deal.
Kevin not sure why you discount other respected peoples experance. Both SCARGO and PROTOMOTIVE have done lots of tt's. As you know Chads car (same rods) did not bend rods until after 650fp at the wheels on the same dyno.
IF it so happens I happen to be the unlucky one the I will deal with it accordily. Since I can do the work myself its not a big deal.
#13
Todd and Rob have been doing this for a long time. However, if you get them in the back room and talk shop, the limit is 550HP for the stock rod bolt. You start to stretch the bolt.. You can't compare the H2O pumper to the 993TT, the termal hit cost you. In the 993TT the rod bearings will fail due to the stretch in the rod.. In my previous post I said it is the "rod bearing" and this is because the rod bolts stretch causing the rod bearings to oval. I'm going to dig up some trashed rods (993TT) and bearings for you..
We all have choices, forgive me for standing on a soapbox and stating that 550HP is the limit in a 993TT and 650 for the 996TT..
We all have choices, forgive me for standing on a soapbox and stating that 550HP is the limit in a 993TT and 650 for the 996TT..
#14
Kevin:
Thanks for yet again bringing the 550 number "out of the closet" on our air cooled based 911 engines. As you state, if you can get real engine developer types to talk outside of promoting sales, these numbers like 550 on the air cooled and 650 on the water pumpers seem like real reasonable asymtopes for the amatuer/hobbiest to consider.
Personally, I know that folks can get really caught up in playing the "dyno drag" numbers gain thing. It's a lot of fun to put big numbers down on an acceleration type dyno. However, this is only an estimate of true BHP, or "brake horse power".
Also, even if you made all that power on a continuous basis, you still need to put it to good use and get it transmitted to the ground...at least if you are at all keeping the road worthiness of a P-Car alive and well. In guess that if folks have the $$$ to play the "dyno drag" challenge, let the HP charts keep flowing in !!!
They're sure fun to see.
As usual, just my $0.02
Thanks for yet again bringing the 550 number "out of the closet" on our air cooled based 911 engines. As you state, if you can get real engine developer types to talk outside of promoting sales, these numbers like 550 on the air cooled and 650 on the water pumpers seem like real reasonable asymtopes for the amatuer/hobbiest to consider.
Personally, I know that folks can get really caught up in playing the "dyno drag" numbers gain thing. It's a lot of fun to put big numbers down on an acceleration type dyno. However, this is only an estimate of true BHP, or "brake horse power".
Also, even if you made all that power on a continuous basis, you still need to put it to good use and get it transmitted to the ground...at least if you are at all keeping the road worthiness of a P-Car alive and well. In guess that if folks have the $$$ to play the "dyno drag" challenge, let the HP charts keep flowing in !!!
They're sure fun to see.
As usual, just my $0.02