ruffy

kevin

yes hand rotation of the assbly with lube is critical (from what ive read at least )... in fact i've been so paranoid about contamination and debris that ive insisted on making an oil change and priming the lines till fresh oil comes through...

just fyi, when i removed the inlet side, there was ton of oil probably about 2 cups of oil (goes to show how wrong my local mechanic was with his diagnosis )... fortunately, the turbine shaft was ok, only the seals were fried... its been a nightmare so far, and i really want to get the best life out of these turbos...

i was just wondering if you could share your thoughts about running the new seals in...
my guess is that the overall success is still limited to the operator's ability to seat the new seals properly...

So far, my understanding is to allow the car to idle to get the temps up to normal operating levels... also for the oil to cycle through the new turbos..
then the car needs to be drive gently for about 120 or so miles before progressively bringing them to full boost.

please correct me or add to this, just so that i can sleep in peace

also... thats another million thanks that i owe you..lol

Kevin

For seating the new seals you need to stay off the boost for 50 miles.. You want heat cycles, you don't want hot shutdowns. Stop and go traffic is good, provided you can make stops to shut the car off to let the engine and turbochargers cool. Prior to all of this you need to read what I said about hanging pop cans from the oil supply lines. New fresh oil needs to be on tap prior to tightening the supply lines. Prime for oil pressure, prior to starting the engine. Warm the engine up and check for leaks. Make sure that you do not overfil the car. I'd run enough oil to get you up to the lower mark on the dipstick and watch the level as you get some heat into the system. And of course install Porsche oil filters..

ruffy

Thank you Kevin!
it is done!...

couldn't have done it without your help.
thank you once again.


Sincerely,
Chunn

Porssche4563

Hello Everyone,

I am new to Rennlist as I just purchased my 993 TT (1997) 17k miles. I have had it for 3 weeks and the car is in super shape with all yearly services performed. I joined your forum as I am having to learn about these years as my history with these cars goes back to the 80's. With this said, I have had the smoking issues (which an oil change was done before I purchased the car). Newly discovered are puddles exactly as stated above by "jasper996" dated 4-23-05. I saw what Kevin replied but was wondering if anyone ever heard back from Jasper996 as to what fixed his car??? Lastly, the air filter needs to be changed...how do you get access...or what has to be removed to get access??

Enjoyed the forum thusfar, learned a lot...

Everyone keep up the great work!!!

David

Kevin

Welcome to Rennlist...

You are going to have to jack your car up and see which oil filter was installed on your engine.. I bet you it was a Mahle filter.. Do not put any miles on your car.. Go to the Porsche dealer and purchase new filters, including your air filter and change them..

To get access to your filter, you have to remove your intercooler. MAKE SURE that you put your cand on the backside of the front two bolts (fan housing). There is square nuts that will drop down into the abyss.. And you will be fishing them out with a magnet.

Porssche4563

Kevin,

Thank you for the information...I will get the filters checked and changed before next drive. Did you ever here back from jasper993 on his leaking driver's side turbo as to what he found per your suggestions??

Again, thanks for the info...

David

Porssche4563

Kevin,

Did you ever hear back from the guy with the leaking turbo as indicated above??

Thanks for your help.

David

Kevin

PM Jasper.. It's been awhile ago.. I believe that it was just his oil filter and over-filled.

Felix

Aren't the heat shields different left and right?

Mike J

I was just glancing at this thread...would not pulling the DME be the best way to prime the engine oil pressure? That will both stop the ignition and fuel pump, but allow the engine to be cranked. Its easier than removing the fuel pump fuse. (assuming this is the same as the NA 993's).

I do this on any NA 993 that I service when changing the oil, drain, filters, fill, pull DME, build oil pressure by cranking, restore DME, fire up.

Is there a difference on a turbo that I am not aware of?

Cheers,

MIke