993tt

I already printed the DIY on p-car.com and going to use it tomorrow when I start to change the slave cylinder. But, does anyone know of a DIY on a turbo? I guess it's not much different from N/A but if there's some important difference it would be nice to know about it before I make a mess of it

/Erik

mjims

Erik,

The Slave Cylinder Assembly on the TT is 'COMPLETELY DIFFERENT' to a std 993.

It runs a Hydraulic Assistance system which is all part of the slave cylinder assembly, and is much larger in physical size with an hydraulic accumulator attached to assist the working of the pressure plate.

Have you purchased the parts required to replace the unit? or are you looking to fit a repair kit? If you have a complete unit, this should give you some idea's as the differences between the two before you start.

The unit is incredably difficult to replace in situ. Especially disconnecting all the pipes connected to the unit. (remeber there are Hydraulic lines too)

I'm sure other members can chime in here with some wise words of wisdom.

I cheeted and changed mine with the engine & gearbox removed, believe me when I say it makes it a very simple job when done like this.

Best of luck

993tt

mjims:

I understand that it is very different from a N/A car in the way that it looks and works. and I have already bought a new one. I understand that it's a PITA to change and that it is more difficult to change because of the oil lines. But, is it really THAT much more difficult to change compared to a N/A?

More input would be very much appreciated. I would not like to be stuck with my car in the garage because I couldn't mount the new cylinder when I removed the old!

/Erik

Kevin

Erik;

This is one of those cases when a partial engine/tranny drop will speed the process up.. When getting you car up on jack stands, support the tranny and lower it down, to give you the room that you need.. to get access to the lines and bolts.. You will have to loosen the motor mounts so that the engine will give a little.. This isn't a tough job, you could be replacing you clutch???

993tt

Ahhh... that's more like it!

Do I need to remove anything from the top/front of the engine so it doesn't go against the compartment? Any dos and don'ts on this?

/Erik

Kevin

Remove the intercooler!

993tt

No kidding! And I know exactly why... I just put mine back today!

Do I need to remove the shaft to the front wheels? I never actually looked for the engine mounts. Maybe they are easy to find but I thought I might ask anyway, so... Where can I find them? And do I need to release some other bolts?

Anyone that can share some more wisdom?

/Erik

993tt

Just one more question.

Will the pentosin from the reservoair in the engine compartment drain through the pump out through the hydralic line once I disconnect it or will it stay put? And what about the front reservoair?

Going to bed now, see you tomorrow folks!


/Erik

Kevin

Erik, your scaring me.. The classic 911 engine mount to the rear of the car.. You will see the crossbar, you will then see two large round rubber mounts. The rear engine crossbar attaches to the rubber mounts.. This is also the time to install the solid RS mounts.. Really it is a good time for this UPGRADE.. It will improve the crispness of your shifter..

Gravity will cause the fluid to siphon out and air will leach into the lines..

You do not need to undo the torque tube, just the tunnel cover..

Rassel

Erik,

Did you lift the car and dropped the engine or transmission?

993tt

Back from a day in the garage.

Well... let's put it this way, I decided that this operation is something for the cold and long winterdays we have here in Sweden

I spent 4 hours trying to figure out how to access the lower bolt on the slave cylinder without dropping the complete engine. Can't be done! At least I couldn't figure it out. I tried to drop the engine slightly in the rear as Kevin suggested but it wouldn't come down more than 1" and that's not nearly enough. I didn't dare to try and drop it more, so if nothing goes terrible wrong with the clutch before winter, I'm going to drop the engine then and change the slave cylinder. While I'm at it I think I will change the clutch and maybe something more I didn't figured out yet...

Anyway, I put everything back and spent the afternoon washing the beauty and took care of some scratch marks made by a cat instead!

/Erik

Kevin

Erik;

You needed to remove the transmission mount bolts... To get the maximum drop.. It's the tranny side that will drop the most... The engine mount bolts are loosened like you did...

993tt

I removed them but it still wouldn't drop more. It is the six bolts that holds a aluminium thingy which holds a rubber thing that is mounted in the transmission, right?

/Erik

mtgadbois

Found this tread in a search. I would like to replace only my clutch pressure accumulator. Are there any step by step write ups?

Mike J

its not that hard - but it depends on your mechanical ability. No specific DIY, I really should write one up .

Basically, you need to, with the engine off, use the clutch several times to bleed off pressure in the accumulator. Once the clutch is really heavy, remove and replace the accumulator, and then start up the car.

The accumulator is on the pressure side so is self bleeding.

Cheers,

Mike