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If the pedal does not go to the floor, I doubt if it's the rubber line or lack of fluid - they usually fail by losing pressure, squirting fluid all over, and your pedal is on the floor. Do you have the hydraulic assist slave (ie stock one?). You check both the p/s and master cylinder reservoirs? If the assist slave fails, they can get super heavy. I had a p/s hose failure on a road trip one time, I had to cut the p/s pump belt in the field so I could limp home (a couple of hundred miles and a ferry), steering was super heavy and so was the clutch, but it still worked. Does your work with a lot of pressure, or its totalled?
Sounds like you have a failed clutch slave or clutch fork/throw out bearing failure. If you have 10 plus years on your pressure plate>> your pressure plate might be cracked (this will produce a stiff pedal and won't allow the any clutch movement)
Thanks for responses. Looked under the car and no fluids behind front driver side wheel or on the gearbox. Think hydraulic lines are intact. Will a cracked PP or bad clutch fork allow normal shifting movements?
I have 105K miles. Complete top end and LFW, PP and clutch replaced at 90K miles but more than 10 years ago. I have driven the car since 93/94K miles.
The slave cylinder has not been working right since ownership. It was one of those replace when I need to drop the motor at some point. Clutch pedal is hard when motor is not running and soften right up after starting up. Thought that is the symptom with clutch slave and can still run..
What PP setup is recommended if I need to go down that road? Need something heavier? Stock ECU but with LWF..
Sounds like a failed Slave and a failed accumulator (which will impacts your clutch pedal) You should have a soft pedal even with the engine off. A good accumulator will require 15 pedal depressing before it gets rock hard.
For a stronger Pressure plate> I would go with the Sachs Race 764 or the stock turbo plate IF you aren't tracking the car. I have linked a few clutch kit options..
Ordered new master and slave cylinders with accumulator and the soft line from slave. I get a clicky feel from my clutch pedal and that is tied to the master.
If its the clutch fork or PP, then I will place an order with you.
Doesn't look like you have my grease on the ears. What is the condition of your clutch fork pads (contact pad to T/O bearing)? Post a picture of your clutch fork?
How are your needle bearings and nylon fork bushings?
BTW, you have the Sachs Race Engineering 752 pressure plate.
So its been awhile since the update. I have been driving my 964 and this car has been set aside until I figure how much to dig into it.
The slave cylinder that was replaced with the clutch lasted 600 miles and was defective. I did not find that brake fluid sprayed into the clutch inspection hole ruining the clutch until after replacement.
The decision was to drop the motor and fix an oil leak seeping from cylinder 1. Down the slippery slope we go. Leakdown numbers were great since top end was done 16K miles back. This is a reseal with engine drop labor paid by porsche due to the defective slave..
A lot of cleaning before assembly. Cleaning cam towers and SAI ports is taking a lot of time at the moment. The motor was never cleaned properly from top end 15K miles ago.
05-03-2020, 07:44 PM
Lost clutch today
