Edward

I had the noise in a front caliper before the track so I removed the "squeal disks" and applied anti-squeal "grease" on the back of the pads as others here have recommended. All was well for the two weeks before the track, but now that mean squeal is back. For reference these are OEM pads w/o the little "discs" but WITH the backing plate (and the anti-sq "grease" between the plate and pad). Is the backing plate the problem? Any thoughts? (Ray, I'm thinking of your write ups regarding the stupid little disks...any suggestions?)
TIA

Edward

jes999

I learned this one the hard way as well. Squeal is probably coming from a buildup of brake dust on the pads due to the hard driving at the track. Best solution for the future is to get a set of track pads and swap out prior to your next DE or AX event. I believe that the stock pads can be lightly sanded to remove the build-up.

Ray Calvo

Edward, can't offer much help besides what jes999 said. For the street or autocrosses, I have used the stock Textar pads without the anti-squeal discs or the anti-squeal pad. I use NO anti-squeal compound, except what might be deposited on the pistons from the track pads (yes, I do use separate pads for the track, and do apply an anti-squeal coating to them - doesn't help, they still squeal like a stuck pig). Stock pads give me absolutely no squeal.

Few ideas:

- when cleaning the car after comping back from the track, remove the wheels and clean out the cooling holes in the discs. These tend to get clogged with worn pad compound, and stuff is baked in hard enough so that you might need a drill bit in a low powered cordless screwdriver to clean them out.

- This is probably more to avoid piston sticking, but is a good idea to exercise the pistons over their entire travel distance. Insert very worn pads, pump the brake pedal a few times only a small portion of the pedal travel to extend the pistons fully, then pry the pads back so the pistons are fully collapsed into the caliper (decent idea to spray the pistons when theya re fully extended with brake cleaning spray). Do this 1-2 more times.

Edward

Thanks guys!

I don't want to go that extra step of dedicated "track pads" as I'm ok with the OE ones. But on the subject of the stock pads, is it ok to ditch the metal plate behind the pad. Does it serve any purpose? I notices that on the pack of the pad the friction material, itself, is exposed in two holes. Does this matter if that backing plate is removed? Thanks

Edward

996FLT6

I heard from an instructor at Thunderhill not to engage the handbrake after a run between laps due to the fact may warp the rotors. Is that true? Regards. Mike

Jeff 993TT

Yes, that's true.. You should just make the car come to a stop, turn off the motor, then leave the car in gear. You should be on a flat surface. I got a small set of wheel chocks from Sears for under $10 also.

Jeff

Robin 993DX

Solution to your brake squealing problem.

I have done this several times and it works. My brakes started to squeal after doing some hard Autocrosses, one of things I believe that causes the squealing sound is the "glazed" rotor surface in conjunction with the the glazed brake pad surface.

If you remove your brake pads and rotors and use a sanding block you can take out the glaze and rough up the rotor surface by sanding it perpendicular to the rotor groove and do the same for the brake pad surface. The squealing should stop until your next event.....

Edward

Robin,

Ok, I'll sand the pads...what grit have you had success with?
As for sanding the rotor: really?!!
Again, what grit, and can't I just leave the rotor on the hub? Thanks

Edward

Tom T.

[quote]Originally posted by Robin 993 DX In Atlanta:
<strong>Solution to your brake squealing problem.

I have done this several times and it works. My brakes started to squeal after doing some hard Autocrosses, one of things I believe that causes the squealing sound is the "glazed" rotor surface in conjunction with the the glazed brake pad surface.

If you remove your brake pads and rotors and use a sanding block you can take out the glaze and rough up the rotor surface by sanding it perpendicular to the rotor groove and do the same for the brake pad surface. The squealing should stop until your next event.....</strong><hr></blockquote>

Robin is very likely on the money. A local PCA
technician/shop owner told me that rotors get glazed (i.e. bright & shiney) after high heat
like from the track. His solution was to spray
them with water to rust them up a bit. I have not
tried this yet but plan to shortly.

Tom

Robin 993DX

I can't remember what grit, I do knot that you can't get a sand paper that the grit size is too large that it would damage the rotors.

I would guess anywhere from 200-400 grit would do.

tom_993

[quote]Originally posted by Tom T.:
<strong>
Robin is very likely on the money. A local PCA
technician/shop owner told me that rotors get glazed (i.e. bright & shiney) after high heat
like from the track. His solution was to spray
them with water to rust them up a bit. I have not
tried this yet but plan to shortly.
Tom</strong><hr></blockquote>

Hmmm… I’ve often recommended cleaning out the dust in the rotor holes with a hose when you wash the car. It’s amazing how much brake dust comes out. The rotors do rust up a bit, even in the few minutes it takes to towel dry the car. I also recommend going for a drive after this, using your brakes, so that they heat up and everything dries out. I suppose the little bit of rusting that occurs could de-glaze the rotors and pads. But my recommendation still stands: hose out the holes in the rotors every time you wash the car!

Tom
Squeal Free ’95 993

Ray Calvo

[quote]Robin is very likely on the money. A local PCA technician/shop owner told me that rotors get glazed (i.e. bright & shiney) after high heat
like from the track. His solution was to spray
them with water to rust them up a bit. I have not
tried this yet but plan to shortly. <hr></blockquote>

Hmmm- I wonder why that's why my stock pads have never squealed but others have experienced it even with the OE anti-squeal garbage on the brakes. When I come home from the track, I swap the pads for street pads, bleed the brakes, then mount the street tires. Then I wash the car, including giving the rotors a good water blast. Right after washing, car goes back into the garage, so I get a light rust coating on the rotors. Similar procedure for street driving; I wash the car AFTER a drive. This might act like the "sandpapering" procedure when I drive the car again in a few days.