How can I turn my Turbo S ducts into DRLs?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
How can I turn my Turbo S ducts into DRLs?
I was hoping you guys could help me out. I recently purchased a pair of OEM Turbo S ducts from Gert and wanted to turn them into DRLs when turn the car on without having to switch the light to position 1.
I noticed in the following link that https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...o-s-ducts.html gmorat jump one of the automotive replays with a wire which seems to have a fuse box attached.
I am not sure if this workaround in the above picture is for the Turbo ducts that are connected to the fog light wire or the side lights which uses the round smaller wiring harness. My OEM ducts are connected to the side light so the smaller round wiring harnes. Can what I am trying to do be easily done and if so, does anyone have any pictures or instructions.
Much appreciated.
I noticed in the following link that https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...o-s-ducts.html gmorat jump one of the automotive replays with a wire which seems to have a fuse box attached.
I am not sure if this workaround in the above picture is for the Turbo ducts that are connected to the fog light wire or the side lights which uses the round smaller wiring harness. My OEM ducts are connected to the side light so the smaller round wiring harnes. Can what I am trying to do be easily done and if so, does anyone have any pictures or instructions.
Much appreciated.
#2
That is the correct way to make your fogs DRL's. Remove your foglight relay (31 I believe), and jump terminals 3 and 5.
I don't believe you need the inline fuse as the circuit is still protected by the foglight fuse (#14, 15 amp).
I did mine like this, just a short piece of wire with crimp on spades, turns the fogs on/off with ignition.
Note that your fogs will still turn off with your highbeams unless you also remove relay 34 and jumper it the same way.
I don't believe you need the inline fuse as the circuit is still protected by the foglight fuse (#14, 15 amp).
I did mine like this, just a short piece of wire with crimp on spades, turns the fogs on/off with ignition.
Note that your fogs will still turn off with your highbeams unless you also remove relay 34 and jumper it the same way.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys for clarifying, somehow I thought the round connector was for the side marker, my mistake. The reason I say that is because when my fog light switch is off, the turbo Duct LED come on as soon as I turn the light to position 1 and not the fog light.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sorry guys, I am a knucklehead. I just checked again. My turbo ducts connect to the bigger square connector and not the smaller round one. I just check again.
#6
Drifting
Yes, that connector is for your parking lights, which is why they come on as you described. Connect the fog/DRL to the round connector. You can buy the mating half of the connector as it is available as a VW part.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. So are these the only 2 part numbers that I need.
813972926 - Round Connector - QTY 2
000979104E - Wire Set - QTY 2 (do these wires just slide into the round connector?)
or should I get this as well https://www.amazon.com/ACCEL-74812-W...iglink20410-20 ?
Just want to make sure I get all the right parts. I would want a plug and play setup so I can remove the ducts without having to cut anything if I want to go back to OEM setup.
813972926 - Round Connector - QTY 2
000979104E - Wire Set - QTY 2 (do these wires just slide into the round connector?)
or should I get this as well https://www.amazon.com/ACCEL-74812-W...iglink20410-20 ?
Just want to make sure I get all the right parts. I would want a plug and play setup so I can remove the ducts without having to cut anything if I want to go back to OEM setup.
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#8
If those part numbers were from my thread then yes you need QTY 2 of each part number.
The wire sets come as a pair, they're just short wire pigtails with the connector blade crimped on the end. You just insert two pigtails into each round connector body from the back until they click. Theres a rubber seal and a retaining cap that snaps in after, really easy when you see the parts.
I just soldered the pigtail wires to the duct wires. Note that polarity matters for the LED bulbs, so before you solder just twist the wires together and try the lights. If they don't work, flip wire for wire then solder and heatshrink.
The wire sets come as a pair, they're just short wire pigtails with the connector blade crimped on the end. You just insert two pigtails into each round connector body from the back until they click. Theres a rubber seal and a retaining cap that snaps in after, really easy when you see the parts.
I just soldered the pigtail wires to the duct wires. Note that polarity matters for the LED bulbs, so before you solder just twist the wires together and try the lights. If they don't work, flip wire for wire then solder and heatshrink.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If those part numbers were from my thread then yes you need QTY 2 of each part number.
The wire sets come as a pair, they're just short wire pigtails with the connector blade crimped on the end. You just insert two pigtails into each round connector body from the back until they click. Theres a rubber seal and a retaining cap that snaps in after, really easy when you see the parts.
I just soldered the pigtail wires to the duct wires. Note that polarity matters for the LED bulbs, so before you solder just twist the wires together and try the lights. If they don't work, flip wire for wire then solder and heatshrink.
The wire sets come as a pair, they're just short wire pigtails with the connector blade crimped on the end. You just insert two pigtails into each round connector body from the back until they click. Theres a rubber seal and a retaining cap that snaps in after, really easy when you see the parts.
I just soldered the pigtail wires to the duct wires. Note that polarity matters for the LED bulbs, so before you solder just twist the wires together and try the lights. If they don't work, flip wire for wire then solder and heatshrink.
#11
Drifting
You will simply cut each of the 2 connectorized wires in half so you'll have four, 2 for each connector. They work great.
Suggest you shop around, as I found quite a variance between VW dealers.
As Top Gun said earlier, since the circuit is already fused, I didn't use a fuse in the jumper.
Suggest you shop around, as I found quite a variance between VW dealers.
As Top Gun said earlier, since the circuit is already fused, I didn't use a fuse in the jumper.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
RG-- These threads may shed some light:
"Daytime Running Lights"
"Turbo S Scoops with LED Lights"
"Daytime Running Lights"
"Turbo S Scoops with LED Lights"
You will simply cut each of the 2 connectorized wires in half so you'll have four, 2 for each connector. They work great.
Suggest you shop around, as I found quite a variance between VW dealers.
As Top Gun said earlier, since the circuit is already fused, I didn't use a fuse in the jumper.
Suggest you shop around, as I found quite a variance between VW dealers.
As Top Gun said earlier, since the circuit is already fused, I didn't use a fuse in the jumper.
#13
Rennlist Member
If you want to be able to switch the fogs on and off independently of headlights (if you leave the fog light switch "on" they'd act like DRLs and come on when you start the car), here's a thread I did showing a simple wiring mod.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...eadlights.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...eadlights.html
#14
Rennlist Member
I just emailed somebody this whole procedure recently. PM me and I'll forward the whole shebang onto you.
Turbo ducts, DRL's and Bumperette deletes! Unless I get an S cover, that is me done on the front.
Turbo ducts, DRL's and Bumperette deletes! Unless I get an S cover, that is me done on the front.