Rick Lee

I did a search and cannot find the thread I've seen on this before. I need to replace my rear toe arms like yesterday. I have all the parts already and am doing tie rods too, as most of my rubber boots are torn. I noticed this in May and thought I could let it go for a while. Yesterday I noticed my right rear tire was worn down to the threads, while the left one was just balding. I'm actually afraid to drive it now. I have a new set of rear tires sitting in my kitchen and there's no point in having new tires put on if my alignment is this far off. So I'm just gonna knock it all out tonight. I have the workshop manuals on CD, but haven't even looked at it yet. I will be printing out the chapters I need. But in the meantime, if anyone out there has DIY'ed tie rods and toe arms, I'd like to know how tough it was and if there are any tricks to it. I will be using a friend's lift for this job, so it shouldn't be too bad. Then she gets dropped off for an alignment and to have the new tires thrown on. Thanks.

Greg Fishman

It is pretty easy to do them, just bolts and washers. Just mark the the ecentric washers location so you get the toe setting somewhat close.


I think you want to use some red loctite on the threads for the tie rods.

viperbob

Rick,

You have to take a fair amount of the heat duct work off to remove the eccentric bolt on the inside of the toe-arm. This bolt must be removed FIRST before trying to remove the outer end on the strut. You'll also need a T-35 or T-40 torx (can't rememeber which) to hold the shaft in order to remove the nut (long open ended 18mm wrench needed) on toe arm stud at the strut end.

One last thing, since the NA motors are located 40mm forward compared to the Turbo engine, you will need to jack up the engine a little in order to remove the eccentric bolt on the inside driverside as it will be hitting the exhaust.

Rick Lee

Thanks guys. I knew about jacking the engine up a bit. The workshop manual does not say which size torx bit I need, but says it's required for tie rods too. Anyone know this?

Rezal

I don't remember having to remove the heatducting to remove the toe link eccentric bolt. I did have to loosen the swaybar and move it aside so that the bolt had clearance to pull out.

jnor10

I've been piecing together the necessary parts for the PSS-9 install. The torx fitting for the lower strut attachment is a T40.

good luck

Jeff N

Rick Lee

Alright! Just returned from doing this job. Had the car on the lift by 7:45 and was done by 10:00. It would have been faster but I installed a tie rod without the spacer and had to redo it. What a b!tch those tie rod boots are to fit on the inner and outer ends. One I just could not get, so I'll let the shop do it when they do the alignment. While I was doing the tie rods, two friends did the toe arms, so I didn't get to witness or assist in any of that job. I know they did not mark the toe settings before they took it apart and driving home was just hell. I stayed in 2nd gear most of the way and was afraid I wasn't going to make it. It felt like I was hydroplaning at 10 mph. Luckily, I hadn't had a single beer, because my swerving was just screaming out for a cop to stop me. My rear tires are so shot it's dangerous to drive on them. Since it's raining tonight, I let about 10 psi out of the rear tires to get me home. That was about 10 miles. I have another 7 miles to get to the shop tomorrow night and I have new rear tires going on too then. After that, she'll be good as new!

Rezal

Rick,

I thought I had mentioned to you in a prior thread to mark the eccentric bolt locations . It would have saved you the hellacious trip back (glad you made it back ok) and an alignment job (assuming the tie rods didn't change anything).

In my case, I lucked out. My friend who was helping me had the foresight to mark the eccentric bolt.

Oh well, part of the learning experience!

Rick Lee

I know, I know and I knew it long ago. But I was wrapped up doing the tie rods and was not watching what they were doing. I thought they'd maybe remove the sway bar and then I'd get to it. They were done with both sides before I was. I have planned to have it aligned anyway, as my tires were very unevenly worn. They have about enough life left in them to get to the shop tonight.

viperbob

Rick,

Hopefully the place you are taking it knows how, or has the tools to adjust those Kinematic arms. Most shops just them them alone.

Rick Lee

Believe me, this shop knows what I need. They're very well-respected and have helped me a lot with my Carrera. I just called and told them what I went through last night, so they know what all needs to be done.

viperbob

Sounds like you are in good hands. I had two experiences with shops that gave me the "oh yeah we do that all the time" just to find out the neither of them actually knew what to do, nor did they have the tools to fix it in the first place. They just left it as a factory setting on all 993s regardless of the changes done to the suspension...

Good luck

Robin 993DX

There is no "factory" setting for the eccentric toe setting.

Most private shops just maxs out the setting without using the proper tool gauge.

There are only two gauges avaliable that can properly set the setting. (1). Factory $3500 tool, that hangs on the control arm (2). $500 tool from Autometrics which hangs on the brake caliper (which have been tested to actually work!)

Before any shop tells you that they can align it properly just ask them if they have either one of these two tools, or if they just max it out.

It will make a big difference in how the handling of your 993.

Robin

viperbob

Robin,

I meant that some shops keep the toe arms set the way it comes from the factory and make no adjustments to it during an alignment, or any type of modification.

Robin 993DX

Oh, I see, just make a mark and "try" to put it back on the same spot. Sorry I misunderstood.