Jlaa

I am sorry that your question seems to have been met with a number of tangential replies / photos. That said, what you can do is pull out the Continental unit with the keys that came with your unit when you bought it, and test A7 (+12v) / A8 (ground) with a multimeter WITH THE CAR COMPLETELY OFF and ensure that you see +12v.

Here are the keys if you don't remember what they look like:

bcrdukes

Thanks, Jlaa.

I still have the keys in the box it came with. I'll need to dig into storage to find it. And also buy a multimeter.

Edit: Colour me embarrassed. I just realized I have the Continental CDD7416UB-OR.

boxcarracer

I'm ~10yrs late to the TR7412UB-OR party but I wanted to share my experience because I'm very happy with the outcome.
When I first bought the car it had an extensive sound system, and old photos show it also had some subs in the back.




After I took possession, I removed all the audio, then put RS door cards and radio delete, and relied on a rattly Bluetooth speaker for the odd time I wanted to listen to music.



Must be with age, but I've been wanting to listen to the radio and music more when I drive, and thanks to this thread I picked up the TR7412UB-OR.
I rewired in some rear speakers, but to put the original door front panels in I'm waiting for door pull cables to come in.
In the meantime, this thread has been great to learn how to ensure I get full functionality from the radio. I would have ordered Tore's plug-and-play harness connector to save some time and uncomfortable maneuvering, but I went forward and switched pins 4 and 7, and put a new pin in 6 for illumination. I needed to get an ISO to DIN antenna adapter as the original was replaced with ISO.



Very happy with the final result. Thanks to all who shared valuable info in this thread.