neunelf

I am going to install the ROW M030 setup on my car soon and may have it freelanced out.

What have others here paid (installation only) to have this done?
thanks!

TT Gasman

$800 including alignment by the dealership on my 996. Outside shop wanted over 1k, so it's a no brainer.

D.G.

I paid $340 for installation and $355 for allignment and corner weighting.
Don't underestimate the importance of the allignment. Also make sure the shop knows how you want it set up.
They should ask you whether you want it set up for conservative street (maximum tire life), agressive street, track, etc. If they don't then find another shop.

D.G.

neunelf

Thanks DJ Hirsch and D.G. for your info!

This helps give me a starting point when I go talk to a couple of resources about the installation.

Ray Calvo

Installation? ZERO; I did it myself!

I did my own height adjustment, then drove (carefully) to a dealer. Rear was nonadjustable; only did the front. Alignment cost $143 back in 1997 to factory ROW specs.

neunelf

Ray it looks like you win with the installation cost of $143! I unfortunately won't get off as luckily. Looks like I will be lighter $350 to $400 alignment.

Why was the rear nonadjustable?
And should I give my alignment man the ROW specs?

Robin 993DX

Brad,

The rears suspension are certainly adjustable, in matter of fact I think there are way too many adjustments (not a bad thing, just confusing) A standard alignment shop "WILL NOT" have the correct tools to adjust the 993's rear suspension properly. I had tried to get my car aligned at independent shops whom had more experience with car alignments, but found that the dealer with the right tools does a better job at aligning the 993 suspension.

There are three separate adjustments you can do at the rear, Toe per wheel, Camber, Kinematic toe-in change. When you change out the suspension the toe-in adjustment must be aligned again.

The trick I use when I do the suspension DIY for the rear suspension is that I make a little mark at the position of the eccentric bolt on the rear lower arm prior to removal and align it back to it's original position as close as possible when installing it. As for the front I pull the lower part of the hub out toward outside to give it a maximum negative camber. Doing this will allow a somewhat of a controlled ride while driving your car to the alignment shop.

FYI, the special tools needed to adjust the rear suspension is
(1). Angle measuring instrument (for kinematic change of toe-in), used on rear axle trailing arm 1/5 (lower arm) on LH and RH side.
(2). Angular measuring tool (also for kinematic change of toe-in), used on rear-axle trailing arm 2 (toe arm) on LH and RH side

I have a listing of the factory recommended alignment specs. list in my web site's suspension DIY section.

Hank Cohn

Robin and Brad:

I think Ray meant that the rear is not adjustable for height. There are some shims that, I guess the dealership might have, but unlike the front, there isn't a threaded section with a spanner nut to adjust.

Hank

Robin 993DX

AH! "Sou-di-ska".......Japanese meaning..... "That's why!"

McCulla

I paid $850 at a "race shop" to have mine installed, corner balanced and aligned. A nightmare experience (I railed about it a few months ago on this board)-try to follow the install or if you are really lucky and can do it, use some of the super people on this board to install. Good Luck.

scott watkins

You are the MAN, Ray!!!

neunelf

Thanks Robin for the great reply, and I'll definitely check out your site for the specs. They will be great to have as a reference!

And Hank that makes sense about the lack of a threaded adjustment on the rear. Thanks for clarifying. I wasn't thinking well enough when I read Rays post.

neunelf

McCulla, I went back and found your nightmare. Ouch! I feel your pain. That is exactly what I dread.
I hope you have been able to since make most all of it right again.

Ray Calvo

I meant the height was nonadjustable, not the alignment. Rear aligmnment DEFINITELY was readjusted - as was the front.

McCulla

Neunelf,I have gotten most,if not all, of my screw ups rectified. Took about $350 with my body guy to get the paint right and another $50 to remount and rebalance the tires to straighten out the steering shimmy. I'm still looking for the right shop to check the alignment however since my Ruf wheels have thrown me a curve lately. (Another of my whiney threads of late) All seems OK now, I sure like the M030 for my street appl.