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Mounting Pedal Set

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Old 12-27-2001, 09:23 AM
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Doug Malone
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Question Mounting Pedal Set

I am going to install the RUF pedal set that Santa brought me (via Gert, thx for your assistance on this item), but I am concerned about trying to get it right the first time (don't want to drill too many holes). I read in Carroll Smith's book that the brake pedal when depressed, "should be inclined rearward at the top. If it is vertical, or over vertical, then increased pedal pressure will result in decreased mechanical advantage - making modulation almost impossible." In fact based on the curvature of the pedals and the mounting surface, I'm not sure to what extent I will be able to do this. I have not yet pulled my rubber pads and tried to mark pedal placement, but was wondering if any others out there have purposely tried to mount their 3rd party brake pedal to incline rearward?

I am also hoping the thickness of the accelerator pedal will make up for some of the differential between the height of the brake pedal and accelerator. It seems like the brake pedal when depressed is almost 1"
higher than the gas pedal, makes heel and toe difficult for me. Although, I understand the brake height is ajustable (don't exactly know what/where to adjust), I hope between the ajustment and pedal thickness, this situation will improve. I realize I can install a Wings pedal, but the RUF pedal set looks so good, I want make it work, even if I have to shim the gas pedal further.

Doug


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Old 12-27-2001, 09:09 PM
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pbs911
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No experience with the RUF pedals, but I did instal the AJUSA pedal set on a 911. I just centered the pedals over existing footing and depresed the pedals to verifiy where to drill the holes. It turned out the AJUSA set was properly position inclined rearward when centered on the pedal. I think you will find that after you remove the rubber pedal covers the fit will be self evident. You can always position the RUF pedals over the brake and clutch and depress them before you drill any holes to determine the proper slope. Hope this helps.
Old 12-28-2001, 08:32 AM
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Jean-Marc
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One word of caution in case the 993 is like the 996, there is a microswitch on the clutch pedal that prevents the car from starting without the microswitch open. I put the pedals just like I liked them and it worked great for the clutch, not so great fo the switch... In other words, I couldn't start the car anymore....
Install is however very simple. I removed the rubber pedal covers from the pedals and drilled in them, then put the metal covers.
Good luck. This should not be a problem at all
JM
Old 12-28-2001, 10:32 AM
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Doug Malone
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Thanks guys, I know this is an easy install, but I did not previously think it was critical to ensure that your brake pedal slants rearward. Mainly just wanted to validate if others where aware of the rearward orientation. Also JM, I think you are right about the microswitch. I've heard the amount of adjustment is not great and I believe you do have to contend with the microswitch.

I'll post a pic of the mounted pedals when I get a chance.

Thx,

Doug
Old 12-28-2001, 11:17 AM
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Robert Henriksen
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that's funny - my '96 993 can be started w/o depressing the clutch.

Is everyone else's car different from this? I always thought it was an example of a lower lawyer headcount in Germany, like the cruise control that doesn't require a two-step activation procedure.
Old 12-28-2001, 12:53 PM
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Doug Malone
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There is also a switch for the brake lights that you have to be concerned about when making adjustments to the pedals. Maybe I need to see the Porsche dealer about how to properly lower my brake pedal, as I can't seem to find any clear directions on how to do this.

Doug
Old 12-28-2001, 01:39 PM
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Chris C.
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Hi All:

The clutch start safety switch was apparently installed on 993s late in 1996 (97 model year?). Hank and Robin's 96 993s did (do) not have it; my (previous) early 97 (July build, if I remember) did.

Regards,
Chris
Old 12-28-2001, 01:59 PM
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brandon
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Glad my '96 doesn't have the switch (March '96 build). When paired with the drive block system it sure would make the "car won't start" trouble-shooting matrix a real challenge
Old 12-28-2001, 02:10 PM
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Originally posted by Robert Henriksen:
<STRONG>that's funny - my '96 993 can be started w/o depressing the clutch. ... I always thought it was an example of a lower lawyer headcount in Germany, </STRONG>
OT, but reminded me of my friend who went to his garage last year to start his 1984 Targa, owned since new, pristine, 18k miles, garage queen which he has NEVER left in gear. He reached in turned the key and put it through the back wall. He was physically OK, but the car needed a complete repainting to color match, plus a new top, and the garage required rebuilding.

You guessed it, his wife had moved the car to get a planter from the garage, and "so I forgot & left it in gear, but any idiot knows to push in the clutch before starting" so it was, of course, entirely his fault.

The repairs were, however, cheaper than a divorce.
Old 12-31-2001, 04:29 PM
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Doug Malone
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Well I finally got my pedals installed and I feel its an improvement over stock, but I may still have a little shiming to do on the gas pedal if I can't get the brake pedal lower via adjustment. I had a major PITA working in that small space to mount those pedals. I guess I'm just too old and inflexible. Probably would have been easier to get at if I removed the seat. Here is a pic of the pedals and also the new 02 shifter I purchased from Gert. I like it very much, but now realize the brake lever needs to be swapped out to match. Who says you can't have a concours racer. I also bought the new oval exhaust tips and a Cup car wheel, but that install will need to wait for another day. In fact I may wait on installing the tips till I get a few $s for a new exhaust. Also, I really appreciate the excellent parts/service provided by Gert!!!

Wishing all of you a healthy & happy New Year,

Doug

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Old 12-31-2001, 11:23 PM
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Edward
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Maybe I need to see the Porsche dealer about how to properly lower my brake pedal, as I can't seem to find any clear directions on how to do this.
Doug,

Have you removed the carpet and wood panel beneath the pedals? I adjusted my brake and accel pedal and can heel/toe with ease, though it might take a few tries to get the respective heights just right. The links on the pedals are pretty self explanatory if you look closesly.

Edward
Old 01-01-2002, 10:05 AM
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Doug Malone
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Edward, I have not removed the wood panel, but will give that a look. I appreciate your input. Any idea how much adjustment is possible? Also, believe this may be limited by the brake light switch.

Thanks,

Doug
Old 01-01-2002, 02:33 PM
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Doug, would you be willing to let us know what Santa Klaws charged you for the Ruf pedal set? I might "need" those. Thanks
Old 01-01-2002, 03:58 PM
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Doug Malone
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Check out Gert's site for price, http://users.skynet.be/fa032321/cpx.htm

I think this is a terrifc price since Weissach in Canada wanted to charge $299 U.S.


Doug
Old 01-02-2002, 02:28 PM
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Edward
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Doug,

Both brake and gas pedals have "some" (i.e. a bit) height adjusment, but if you go up a bit on one and down a bit on the other, you'll get it to feel just right for heel/toeing. Again, this will require a bit of trial-error since you don't know exactly the "sweet spot" unless you testdrive and feel it out. Simple threaded locknut on a barrel adjuster, if I recall correctly. The brake light switch is also threaded and is easily adjusted to actuate properly. Enjoy!

Edward


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