Video: How to Build a 3.8L Porsche Track Monster
#17
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According to the Drive+ test drive video the car is making about 335hp. That number seems a bit high to me with only a 3.8 and the 993 cams they talked about. I didn't see any mention of carbs or motec, but then again, I'm no expert.
#19
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Spenser is a great guy(even better driver and even better fount of information on driving and these cars), his shop turns out wonderful cars, You should see the beautiful 906 they restored for a friend of mine, w/ 2 engines, one for DE and one for concour ie and original spec 906 motor.
#20
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maybe i mess heard it but I thout that 993SS cams were used if so, 335 hp flywheel is very reasonable, Those cams even in a 3.6 are going to give close to or even reach 300hp flywheel.
Spenser is a great guy(even better driver and even better fount of information on driving and these cars), his shop turns out wonderful cars, You should see the beautiful 906 they restored for a friend of mine, w/ 2 engines, one for DE and one for concour ie and original spec 906 motor.
Spenser is a great guy(even better driver and even better fount of information on driving and these cars), his shop turns out wonderful cars, You should see the beautiful 906 they restored for a friend of mine, w/ 2 engines, one for DE and one for concour ie and original spec 906 motor.
#21
Race Car
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Great video, definitely skipped a few steps that may of been interesting - like joining the case halves...
Maybe Ken will chime in here - I have seen builds both with the heads/cam carrier pre-assembled and then installed, or the heads installed individually and then the cam carrier installed on top - any preferred method? I like doing the heads individually and then worry about the cam carrier, but i suppose if everything is in good shape it may no matter which way (i.e. good if the camshafts rotate with no binding and the heads are flat to each other).... and am always willing to learn. Opinions?
Cheers,
Mike
Maybe Ken will chime in here - I have seen builds both with the heads/cam carrier pre-assembled and then installed, or the heads installed individually and then the cam carrier installed on top - any preferred method? I like doing the heads individually and then worry about the cam carrier, but i suppose if everything is in good shape it may no matter which way (i.e. good if the camshafts rotate with no binding and the heads are flat to each other).... and am always willing to learn. Opinions?
Cheers,
Mike
I did the pre-assembly of the heads and cam towers when I did my engine, I was going back and forth between the two methods just prior. I found the assembly method easy. I liked having everything on the bench at a better working height than the engine stand.
Potentially..... With labor and parts the build would be over $20k...
#23
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Well for the basics...
Pistons and Cylinders - $4700.00
Cams - $1000
Head Work - between $2000 and $3000
AGasket kit, Chain's Chain rails, Bearings, rod bolts, head studs etc. - Approx $3,000
Machine Work - Rod bushings, Rockers, Crank Polishing etc - Apprx $1,500
Exhaust - $2500+
Chip - $500
This all adds up to about - $16000
Now consider labor, al least 2 oil changes blah blah blah and say hello to over $20,000
Pistons and Cylinders - $4700.00
Cams - $1000
Head Work - between $2000 and $3000
AGasket kit, Chain's Chain rails, Bearings, rod bolts, head studs etc. - Approx $3,000
Machine Work - Rod bushings, Rockers, Crank Polishing etc - Apprx $1,500
Exhaust - $2500+
Chip - $500
This all adds up to about - $16000
Now consider labor, al least 2 oil changes blah blah blah and say hello to over $20,000
#24
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I've heard a rumor that 3.8 slip ins tend to deform over a surprisingly short timeframe. This is not a huge problem in race engines that get torn down regularly. When long-term durability is a concern, some prefer thick-walled, bore-in, Mahle pistons and cylinders. <sips kool-aid>
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#26
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To catch up to various posts:
I've seen the head assembly done both ways. I believe Anderson or Woods schooled me with my first engine on mounting the heads, attaching the cam carrier, torquing that to the heads, then torquing the heads. (But it could have been the old German guy who'd get drunk and tell me about being on one of Rommel's tanks in Africa.......)
My Steve built 3.8 is 315-320HP with more than this engine has. 300HP on a stock exhaust.
Was told in no uncertain terms, starting with the 3.5s, to avoid slip ins. (I still have a slip in 3.8 core in the junk parts warehouse from a quickie "track monster" 964 of the late '90s. No, there's really nothing usable other than the heads and cams--it BLEW up.)
If the exhaust I saw installed was the one I figured out on the FVD site, it's ~$6K retail. Again, I point to product placement as to how parts like that end up in cars like this.
I've seen the head assembly done both ways. I believe Anderson or Woods schooled me with my first engine on mounting the heads, attaching the cam carrier, torquing that to the heads, then torquing the heads. (But it could have been the old German guy who'd get drunk and tell me about being on one of Rommel's tanks in Africa.......)
My Steve built 3.8 is 315-320HP with more than this engine has. 300HP on a stock exhaust.
Was told in no uncertain terms, starting with the 3.5s, to avoid slip ins. (I still have a slip in 3.8 core in the junk parts warehouse from a quickie "track monster" 964 of the late '90s. No, there's really nothing usable other than the heads and cams--it BLEW up.)
If the exhaust I saw installed was the one I figured out on the FVD site, it's ~$6K retail. Again, I point to product placement as to how parts like that end up in cars like this.
#27
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#28
Drifting
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The question I have is if one is doing top end ($8-10k??), it is worth it to spring for extra (12-15k) and get 3.8-4.0l version with various upgrades to get to 350-400hp? How reliable are these "new" engines? If you ever decide to sell, would you get extra money back with higher resale? or are you better off just dealing with lower HP but keeping it original and more reliable?
#29
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The question I have is if one is doing top end ($8-10k??), it is worth it to spring for extra (12-15k) and get 3.8-4.0l version with various upgrades to get to 350-400hp? How reliable are these "new" engines? If you ever decide to sell, would you get extra money back with higher resale? or are you better off just dealing with lower HP but keeping it original and more reliable?
As long as you don't spin the engine much past 7000rpm, it should be reliable, but it ain't making 400bhp at that point either.
I think just slapping 3.8 P&C in there is terrible from a cost/benefit perspective (unless your originals are hosed).
To me its either a stockish rebuild or a ***** out effort making that 350 to 400bhp.
My guess is an honest 350bhp motor would cost almost $30k from a good builder, with a 400bhp motor running nearly $50k.