SAI Clean out roadblock. Help!
#1
Track Day
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I finally took the plunge(I was throwing codes for both sides) after reading every thread I could find here and have hit a roadblock. Here's what I've done so far.
Removal of the heat exchanges went well on the nuts to the engine(lots of good advice on threads I read) at the cat was another story had to torch 3 off. Bought all new hardware as everything was pretty rusty.
Removed check valve. Used modified crows foot bought thru yellow cap garage. Mine didn't look so bad (100k on car) so I'm guessing it's been changed before. I noticed the little vacuum tube was off on the back of the cut off valve but I'm not sure if I dislodged it taking off the check valve.
Using the brake cable method I started on the port closest to the front on passenger side and cleared out the three on that side no problem. Shot sea foam up the ports and the fluid ran out the others on that side as well. Success!
Left side cleared the first 2 but the last port closest to front (number 3 I think) will not clear. I can get to the bend but can't go no further. Shooting cleaner up the 2 other ports reveals that they are free but nothing comes out the stuck one.
I've also blown air from the check valve location with no success on the stuck port.
It's been 3 days now and I'm just thinking of calling it a day and hopefully 5/6 will suffice. But it's killing me leaving the job incomplete.
Maybe this will help me. If I'm looking up at the stuck port, I'm lying perpendicular to the rear tire. The port is in the 1 o'clock position to the right of the valve. It feels like the channel runs up to the right following the 1 o'clock line. Can someone try to describe which way the turn goes?
Removal of the heat exchanges went well on the nuts to the engine(lots of good advice on threads I read) at the cat was another story had to torch 3 off. Bought all new hardware as everything was pretty rusty.
Removed check valve. Used modified crows foot bought thru yellow cap garage. Mine didn't look so bad (100k on car) so I'm guessing it's been changed before. I noticed the little vacuum tube was off on the back of the cut off valve but I'm not sure if I dislodged it taking off the check valve.
Using the brake cable method I started on the port closest to the front on passenger side and cleared out the three on that side no problem. Shot sea foam up the ports and the fluid ran out the others on that side as well. Success!
Left side cleared the first 2 but the last port closest to front (number 3 I think) will not clear. I can get to the bend but can't go no further. Shooting cleaner up the 2 other ports reveals that they are free but nothing comes out the stuck one.
I've also blown air from the check valve location with no success on the stuck port.
It's been 3 days now and I'm just thinking of calling it a day and hopefully 5/6 will suffice. But it's killing me leaving the job incomplete.
Maybe this will help me. If I'm looking up at the stuck port, I'm lying perpendicular to the rear tire. The port is in the 1 o'clock position to the right of the valve. It feels like the channel runs up to the right following the 1 o'clock line. Can someone try to describe which way the turn goes?
#2
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I cant offer any advice on the direction of the port, but I would say if you have come this far, it would be shear craziness not to clear them all.
I'm sure someone who has performed the SAI cleaning will chime in soon with some direction...
Take a break some deep breaths and relax!
I'm sure someone who has performed the SAI cleaning will chime in soon with some direction...
Take a break some deep breaths and relax!
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#3
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+1 on not giving up now.
When you blew down from the check valve did you plug the 5 cleared ports to force the flow to the blocked one? I read freshly used Wrigleys spearmint gum works well.
That and maybe let it soak with a different solvent overnight poured from the check valve opening.
When you blew down from the check valve did you plug the 5 cleared ports to force the flow to the blocked one? I read freshly used Wrigleys spearmint gum works well.
That and maybe let it soak with a different solvent overnight poured from the check valve opening.
#4
Track Day
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Going to keep trying. Bought some more brake cable and will try plugging the good ports to direct all the air to the trouble one. Currently I'm at work but I'm going back at it tonight hopefully I will break on thru...
#7
Intermediate
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When you are blowing air from the top , did you block out the cyl underneath. I went to home hardwware and bought 2 1/2 drain testers , srewed 5 in and worked in each cyl at a time, it took a while , lots of seafoam , and techtron . Good luck
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#8
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Try reversing the drill for a short burst while applying light pressure into the hole. I had two ports I could not get through, but a short reverse burst got it right in.
#9
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Thanks for all the input everyone. I got home late lastnight and couldn't go back at it. I'm going to try and plug the holes either with the gum technique or drain testers. Also saw a post where a 1/4 copper tube was attached to compressor hand tool and air shot up the ports from below. Going to try either late tonight or tomorrow morning. Have to go in to work early today so I can watch the Habs rangers tonight. Go Habs go!
#10
Burning Brakes
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Try reversing the drill for a short burst while applying light pressure into the hole. I had two ports I could not get through, but a short reverse burst got it right in.
Great suggestion. I believe while spinning for a while in one direction, the drag/twist folds the wire over. It probably also puts a point on the end. When the direction is reversed, this point digs in. So the guess is switch the direction every frequently.
Great suggestion. I believe while spinning for a while in one direction, the drag/twist folds the wire over. It probably also puts a point on the end. When the direction is reversed, this point digs in. So the guess is switch the direction every frequently.
#11
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PM Adam (flatsixforme) his engine R&R thread is great. When I was thinking about doing mine, he had some specific tips, and a whole bag of homegrown aids that he tried and tested. He knows what works and what doesn't. I'm sure he could and would offer some hints.
#12
RL Community Team
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The key is to avoid the CEL. If all but one or two of the ports were able to be fully cleared you have probably done the job. I would not go to extraordinary effort to clear the last one. It may have always had an obstruction from new.
Andy
Andy
#13
Drifting
#14
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I used a clutch cable from a Harley and chucked it to a drill. I also used the clutch cable sheath so I could guide the wire while it was spinning. That stuff is hard and mine wouldn't dissolve with chemicals. Keep trying.
#15