Grabbed an hour or so to finally complete. Gave the whole car a vacuum and then whent over every surface with a microfibre and the xylene to remove any last bits that were missed.

 

On Friday I took her to the workshop. Now I wasn't really sure what to expect on the drive down but I was pretty shocked by what I found. First of all the car is still really not that noisy and perfectly acceptable for me at 80+ on the motorway for touring. I gather that the Clubsports lack of underseal is the biggest thing that accounts for the greater noise but of course my car still has all that so its absolutely fine and that's without the engine sound pad still (which I intend to retrofit).

Secondly though, once up to temps I soon found out that she feels so much faster. I didn't really expect this but the engine just feels like its pulling so much harder. This was a real unexepected treat and it gave me a little taster of things to come. I can honestly say that the car feels lighter now with less inertia and also a sense of it being a little lighter on its toes. It might not quite be as rapid as my GT3 but in all honesty it does not really feel any slower on account of its stubbier wheelbase and older chassis.

The cage will add weight of course but I still have one very heavy seat to remove, 20kg or so from the sunroof/headlining/motors, lightweight glass, motors in the doors, lots of wire being taken out of the loom and a much lighter aluminium bonnet. Couple that with the the 40% extra rigidity that the cage affords and the driving experience is going to be one hell of a transformation. I really am quite excited about this now and I realise now that how will drive will eventually completely overshadow the satisfaction gained from its new looks an image.

Driving, it really is all about driving and using these things as intended.





Goodbye oh yellow one ... you won't ever look like this again, that's for sure. Work will begin shortly. The first job is to cut the roof off, strip the interior, build and fit the cage.

I spent a lot of time going through the various alterations and points of detail that will take place. There were many nuances to discuss. The genuine factory clubport cars are steeped in legend but my man was the bodywork expert at Porsche for over 15 years and for the last 5 years there was the person who trained everyone else with all things bodywork. When it comes to Clubsports there are very few people on the planet who have as much detailed knowledge. Suffice to say that there are all sorts of specific minutiae that need to be addressed if one is trying to properly recreate an M003 exactly as it came out of the factory. To give you an appetiser, some of this stuff involves even specific angles at which the spraygun was held when boot floors, cages and underside panels were painted ..... the number and total length of weld spots when the cage was attached to the pillars. An anoraks wet dream !

I shall get into all this and more though as and when I update. For now, a few pictures.



This place is a bit of a treasure trove. Here we have a 964 RSR with original factory cage so plenty of good original reference points !




Factory RHD 993 GT2 EVO .... makes a 993 GT2 seem as commonplace as a Ford Mondeo !

Red 993 RSR next to it, with with factory cages.



LHD low miles 964RS in the background ... sold already. Not certain what the yellow car was but it looked stunning.



A few basket cases too. This and a 356 shell which looked like a huge piece of rust but which will eventually look like a brand spanking new speedster.



A 993RS M002 from Asia having all sorts of stuff done to it.



LHD 993 RSR showing 25.4mm master cylinder, battery cut off and cable guide panels.

 

I think there maybe a certain amount of placebo feel good factor going on there with the "speed effect", having said that, it's probably the cheapest bhp effect you can buy!

As for the RS driving experience, the stiffness of the M003 is only really noticeable on track with sticky R type rubber, over the M002. The regular RS M002 is the better road car even when running on the same suspension. It's certainly stiff enough.

As I mentioned to you before, now you have the looks down and an upgraded suspension, the best way to get it to drive like an RS from here, is with the seats and gearbox. The box makes more difference than the engine to drive over a C2.

Things have moved on in 20 years, the quality of welds and paintwork in a CS is average at best.
If it were me, I would have the quality of the finish as good as possible.

The yellow car is a Des', it is a genuine Alzen '91 cup car, converted by them at the end of that years race season to wide body spec, with a 350-380 (variable boost) 965 Turbo lump fitted. Registered as an "Alzen", in the way Ruf are. It goes well and is currently for sale if you are tempted?

What ever you do do, don't let your man reference off of a 964 cage. They have completely different configurations and pick up points, due to the 964 having the older type of suspension.
I am aware he knows this!

Good luck!

 

Nope, it was noticeably stronger in gear, no question. Remember I get to drive my car an awful lot so I know it very well.



I disagree strongly again. I've driven a caged 993 on the road and it was night and day. Not only does the chassis flex far far less but you feel a lot more as sensations through the chassis are not lost in the structure quite so much and get transmitted to the primary interfaces more strongly. I guess a persons perception of all this will to a certain extent depend on how hard he/she drives and how tune in you are. I don't think the M002 is stiff enough either for MY personal tastes.




Yep, it's not you.




Why mention it then (rhetorical btw )

 

hiya, yes there are some more here:


http://www.track-days.co.uk/gassing/...22332&d=0&nmt=

 

jackal looks great, but are you sure that black strip on the side of the trans tunnel isn't sound deadening materials that could be removed?

 

Great project. Had to subscribe.
How much does a cr21 weigh lol. You're still welcome to it but I guess no longer necessary. Good luck.

 

Jackal, i love the sport of you disagreeing with every point I make.

I'm only trying to help having owned and driven"real" M002 & 3 versions of these cars on road and track for some time now.

I mentioned the 964 cage reference point, as although Mr LJ will know. The fact you mentioned it, gave the impression you were not aware how fundamentally different they are....You are on the fun part of the learning curve, enjoy it.

When do you expect the car back with you?

 

Jackal, you have my total admiration in cleaning all that glue to the extent you did with Xylene.

Looking very nice.

 

hi, yes that does come off.. its made of bitumen i think

 

interesting, I wonder does it have a smell? I always wondered what the mixture of smells inside the car was, seems its a oil and vinyl smell

bi·tu·men


/biˈt(y)o͞omən,bī-/

noun: bitumen
a black viscous mixture of hydrocarbons obtained naturally or as a residue from petroleum distillation. It is used for road surfacing and roofing.

 

Ha ha... hope you're well mate. Sorry, not had teh time to pass by but still mean to at some point.

 

Does the cabin get much warmer without all the insulation?

 

Jackal, you've done a great job cleaning up all that glue, but had considered Ice blasting?
It would take maybe only a couple of hours to remove what has taken you a couple of days. I would recommend it to anyone considering doing the same thing. it can also be used to clean up the engine and running gear.

Also, on the seat belts we can rewebb them for you in yellow or any number of 30 plus different colours.
Here is my website: www.quickfitsbs.com based in Harrow.
PM me if you want to go over anything.

 

Id second what Jackel is saying. My 993 is 1300kg wet and had a Heigo half cage and a three piece Rennline front strut brace for stiffening. The car gets quicker over a track day running from full tank to empty (that's around 40kg). On the throttle even 40-50kg can be noticeable when you are tuned into the chassis (all other things remaining the same).

I agree with Clubsport that going to lightweight recaro pole positions will be immediately felt. They not only will save 35kg the pair over the sports backs (I also had these) but they connect you far better to the chassis and make you feel like you are in a go kart.

As for teh gearbox. This is a dead end. the G50/31 rations for 3rd and 4th are basically identical to the ROW G50/21. The early G50 like mine has a removable second gear so there could be some benefit changing this cog but to change first you need to spend 1-2K GBP on a Guards spline shaft and a factory RS first gear and it simply isnt worth it given you aren't in first very often really. As for 5th gear RS yes its a fraction better but 6th in the ROW is better for highway cruising.

You could spend 6-8K GBP here on settel synchros and a re gear but you would be stupid to go G50/31. Ive owned a 993RS and those gears arent significantly different form G50/21. Yes they are a big leap from G50/20 (USA/Switzerland) but thats a different story.

If I were to regear I would look definitely at G50/32 but most likely G50/33 Cup.

So forget the gearbox for now. If you don't already have it a Guards 40/60 4 plate LSD is a very worthwhile improvement for the track and fast tight uneven winding roads (like in the UK and NZ).

Always love reading your site. I think we are at similar levels of development mechanically but mine is not an RS rep but more an individual car. It is however now quicker than my old 993RS around a given track mostly due to suspension upgrades. Have just fitted the big reds ay you did plus the Kuel evaporator and gearbox being sorted after track day wear. Cant say I got dirty at all doing this but have a big hole in the pocket so I admire your practical nature, especially on the drive way outdoors and Ive liked in UK so I can see how you bunch won the war!